leaking seal
12 posts
• Page 1 of 1
Hi,
I have just discovered the oil seal on the passenger diff drive shaft is
leaking on my +2. Any tips/advise/uk supplier would be most welcome!
During my last drive of approx. 100 miles there was an intermittent
screeching noise coming from the rear, so I hope I have not done any long
term damage.
Thanks in advance.
David
1970 +2
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
The information contained in this e-mail is intended only for the
confidential use of the above named recipient. If you are not the intended
recipient or person responsible for delivering it to the intended recipient,
you have received this communication in error and must not distribute or
copy it. Please accept the sender's apologies, notify the sender
immediately by return e-mail and delete this communication. Thank you.
I have just discovered the oil seal on the passenger diff drive shaft is
leaking on my +2. Any tips/advise/uk supplier would be most welcome!
During my last drive of approx. 100 miles there was an intermittent
screeching noise coming from the rear, so I hope I have not done any long
term damage.
Thanks in advance.
David
1970 +2
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
The information contained in this e-mail is intended only for the
confidential use of the above named recipient. If you are not the intended
recipient or person responsible for delivering it to the intended recipient,
you have received this communication in error and must not distribute or
copy it. Please accept the sender's apologies, notify the sender
immediately by return e-mail and delete this communication. Thank you.
- davidallen
- Third Gear
- Posts: 292
- Joined: 11 Aug 2005
Ahhh! Screeching from the diff. That takes me back...26 years! and
the reason it was taken off the road.
In my case it was the output bearing that had broken up due to seal
failure and water ingress...rusty balls no less.
Replacing the (sealed for life!) bearing sorted it and no damage to
the diff was found.
Good Luck - Richard
--- In ***@***.***, "ALLEN, David" <david.allen@e...>
wrote:
the reason it was taken off the road.
In my case it was the output bearing that had broken up due to seal
failure and water ingress...rusty balls no less.
Replacing the (sealed for life!) bearing sorted it and no damage to
the diff was found.
Good Luck - Richard
--- In ***@***.***, "ALLEN, David" <david.allen@e...>
wrote:
- ardee_selby
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2197
- Joined: 30 Sep 2003
Don't forget to replace the lip-seal, just inbord of the bearing. It is easily pried out and replaced without further disassembly.
Chears!
Stan A.
----- Original Message -----
From: ardee_selby
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 10:28 AM
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Ahhh! Screeching from the diff. That takes me back...26 years! and
the reason it was taken off the road.
In my case it was the output bearing that had broken up due to seal
failure and water ingress...rusty balls no less.
Replacing the (sealed for life!) bearing sorted it and no damage to
the diff was found.
Good Luck - Richard
--- In ***@***.***, "ALLEN, David" <david.allen@e...>
wrote:
Chears!
Stan A.
----- Original Message -----
From: ardee_selby
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 10:28 AM
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Ahhh! Screeching from the diff. That takes me back...26 years! and
the reason it was taken off the road.
In my case it was the output bearing that had broken up due to seal
failure and water ingress...rusty balls no less.
Replacing the (sealed for life!) bearing sorted it and no damage to
the diff was found.
Good Luck - Richard
--- In ***@***.***, "ALLEN, David" <david.allen@e...>
wrote:
- saarhus
- Third Gear
- Posts: 468
- Joined: 12 Oct 2003
Is the seal integral with the bearing? Is it a diff out job or can it be
done laying on your back, in the cold, wet etc.........
How do you pull the bearing out? Any tips?
David
-----Original Message-----
From: Stan Aarhus [mailto:***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 4:46 PM
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Don't forget to replace the lip-seal, just inbord of the bearing. It is
easily pried out and replaced without further disassembly.
Chears!
Stan A.
----- Original Message -----
From: ardee_selby
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 10:28 AM
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Ahhh! Screeching from the diff. That takes me back...26 years! and
the reason it was taken off the road.
In my case it was the output bearing that had broken up due to seal
failure and water ingress...rusty balls no less.
Replacing the (sealed for life!) bearing sorted it and no damage to
the diff was found.
Good Luck - Richard
--- In ***@***.***, "ALLEN, David" <david.allen@e...>
wrote:
done laying on your back, in the cold, wet etc.........
How do you pull the bearing out? Any tips?
David
-----Original Message-----
From: Stan Aarhus [mailto:***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 4:46 PM
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Don't forget to replace the lip-seal, just inbord of the bearing. It is
easily pried out and replaced without further disassembly.
Chears!
Stan A.
----- Original Message -----
From: ardee_selby
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 10:28 AM
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Ahhh! Screeching from the diff. That takes me back...26 years! and
the reason it was taken off the road.
In my case it was the output bearing that had broken up due to seal
failure and water ingress...rusty balls no less.
Replacing the (sealed for life!) bearing sorted it and no damage to
the diff was found.
Good Luck - Richard
--- In ***@***.***, "ALLEN, David" <david.allen@e...>
wrote:
- davidallen
- Third Gear
- Posts: 292
- Joined: 11 Aug 2005
--- In ***@***.***, "ALLEN, David" <david.allen@e...>
wrote:
David,
The seal is inboard of the bearing and the bearing is a press fit in
the housing and the bearing is pressed on the axle. Once the circlip
is removed, a slide hammer can be attached to the axle and the
struggle can commence. Use liberal amounts of PB Blaster or
something to help. If the diff were out of the car, an application
of heat usually helps. Once the axle/bearing assembly is out, you
can see a lip seal in the housing. That's the one Stan is referring
to. Replace it and the bearing.
Greg Z.
'72 Sprint
wrote:
David,
The seal is inboard of the bearing and the bearing is a press fit in
the housing and the bearing is pressed on the axle. Once the circlip
is removed, a slide hammer can be attached to the axle and the
struggle can commence. Use liberal amounts of PB Blaster or
something to help. If the diff were out of the car, an application
of heat usually helps. Once the axle/bearing assembly is out, you
can see a lip seal in the housing. That's the one Stan is referring
to. Replace it and the bearing.
Greg Z.
'72 Sprint
Greg Z
45/0243K Sprint
45/7286 S3 SE DHC
45/0243K Sprint
45/7286 S3 SE DHC
-
gjz30075 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3493
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
David,
The seal is separate from the bearing, and provides the primary seal. The seals on the bearings are meant to keep the grease in and dust/moisture out, but are not meant to provide critical sealing. This repair can be done in-situ, if and this is a big IF, the bearing is not frozen, etc. If the bearing failure damaged the housing, then it is definitely a "diff out" job, because the housing itself will probably require repair.
The bearing is pressed onto the output shaft and also secured in the inner side by a snap-ring (cir-clip). To remove the axle and bearing set, first very aggressively clean out the area around the snap ring. You will probably encounter a lot of dirt and on the housing, corrosion. Clean this off as much as possible. A good trick to loosen up the snap ring is to strike it inward with a drift punch. Do this all around the snap-ring. This will help free the snap ring from the inevitably corroded housing. Next, use a heavy duty snap-ring pliers remove the snap ring. No need to remove it all the way, just free it from the groove. Next, remove the axle and bearing. The best tool for this is a slide hammer with an adapter to match up to the triangular drive flange. After removing the axle and bearing, you will see the seal in its recess just inward from the bearing recess. Carefully pry it out being careful not to damage its recess or the bearing recess.
Remove the snap ring that holds the bearing on the axle shaft and press thebad bearing off the shaft.
If the housing is damaged; corroded or cracked, it will require expert repair. In a case such as this, I look for a certified welder, preferably a certified aircraft welder to make the repair. Then of course a good machine shop to re-machine the housing.
I hope that none of these dire treatments are necessary, and that it turns out to be an easy "under the car" job.
Good Luck!
Stan A.
----- Original Message -----
From: ALLEN, David
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 11:01 AM
Subject: RE: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Is the seal integral with the bearing? Is it a diff out job or can it be
done laying on your back, in the cold, wet etc.........
How do you pull the bearing out? Any tips?
David
-----Original Message-----
From: Stan Aarhus [mailto:***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 4:46 PM
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Don't forget to replace the lip-seal, just inbord of the bearing. It is
easily pried out and replaced without further disassembly.
Chears!
Stan A.
----- Original Message -----
From: ardee_selby
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 10:28 AM
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Ahhh! Screeching from the diff. That takes me back...26 years! and
the reason it was taken off the road.
In my case it was the output bearing that had broken up due to seal
failure and water ingress...rusty balls no less.
Replacing the (sealed for life!) bearing sorted it and no damage to
the diff was found.
Good Luck - Richard
--- In ***@***.***, "ALLEN, David" <david.allen@e...>
wrote:
The seal is separate from the bearing, and provides the primary seal. The seals on the bearings are meant to keep the grease in and dust/moisture out, but are not meant to provide critical sealing. This repair can be done in-situ, if and this is a big IF, the bearing is not frozen, etc. If the bearing failure damaged the housing, then it is definitely a "diff out" job, because the housing itself will probably require repair.
The bearing is pressed onto the output shaft and also secured in the inner side by a snap-ring (cir-clip). To remove the axle and bearing set, first very aggressively clean out the area around the snap ring. You will probably encounter a lot of dirt and on the housing, corrosion. Clean this off as much as possible. A good trick to loosen up the snap ring is to strike it inward with a drift punch. Do this all around the snap-ring. This will help free the snap ring from the inevitably corroded housing. Next, use a heavy duty snap-ring pliers remove the snap ring. No need to remove it all the way, just free it from the groove. Next, remove the axle and bearing. The best tool for this is a slide hammer with an adapter to match up to the triangular drive flange. After removing the axle and bearing, you will see the seal in its recess just inward from the bearing recess. Carefully pry it out being careful not to damage its recess or the bearing recess.
Remove the snap ring that holds the bearing on the axle shaft and press thebad bearing off the shaft.
If the housing is damaged; corroded or cracked, it will require expert repair. In a case such as this, I look for a certified welder, preferably a certified aircraft welder to make the repair. Then of course a good machine shop to re-machine the housing.
I hope that none of these dire treatments are necessary, and that it turns out to be an easy "under the car" job.
Good Luck!
Stan A.
----- Original Message -----
From: ALLEN, David
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 11:01 AM
Subject: RE: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Is the seal integral with the bearing? Is it a diff out job or can it be
done laying on your back, in the cold, wet etc.........
How do you pull the bearing out? Any tips?
David
-----Original Message-----
From: Stan Aarhus [mailto:***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 4:46 PM
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Don't forget to replace the lip-seal, just inbord of the bearing. It is
easily pried out and replaced without further disassembly.
Chears!
Stan A.
----- Original Message -----
From: ardee_selby
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 10:28 AM
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Ahhh! Screeching from the diff. That takes me back...26 years! and
the reason it was taken off the road.
In my case it was the output bearing that had broken up due to seal
failure and water ingress...rusty balls no less.
Replacing the (sealed for life!) bearing sorted it and no damage to
the diff was found.
Good Luck - Richard
--- In ***@***.***, "ALLEN, David" <david.allen@e...>
wrote:
- saarhus
- Third Gear
- Posts: 468
- Joined: 12 Oct 2003
Sometimes when I drive my Elan too fast I get an intermittent screeching from my rear too!
Pete
----- Original Message -----
From: ALLEN, David
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 4:07 PM
Subject: [LotusElan.net] leaking seal
Hi,
I have just discovered the oil seal on the passenger diff drive shaft is
leaking on my +2. Any tips/advise/uk supplier would be most welcome!
During my last drive of approx. 100 miles there was an intermittent
screeching noise coming from the rear, so I hope I have not done any long
term damage.
Thanks in advance.
David
1970 +2
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
The information contained in this e-mail is intended only for the
confidential use of the above named recipient. If you are not the intended
recipient or person responsible for delivering it to the intended recipient,
you have received this communication in error and must not distribute or
copy it. Please accept the sender's apologies, notify the sender
immediately by return e-mail and delete this communication. Thank you
Pete
----- Original Message -----
From: ALLEN, David
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 4:07 PM
Subject: [LotusElan.net] leaking seal
Hi,
I have just discovered the oil seal on the passenger diff drive shaft is
leaking on my +2. Any tips/advise/uk supplier would be most welcome!
During my last drive of approx. 100 miles there was an intermittent
screeching noise coming from the rear, so I hope I have not done any long
term damage.
Thanks in advance.
David
1970 +2
CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE
The information contained in this e-mail is intended only for the
confidential use of the above named recipient. If you are not the intended
recipient or person responsible for delivering it to the intended recipient,
you have received this communication in error and must not distribute or
copy it. Please accept the sender's apologies, notify the sender
immediately by return e-mail and delete this communication. Thank you
Cheers,
Pete.
http://www.petetaylor.org.uk
LOTUS ELAN flickr GROUP: https://www.flickr.com/groups/2515899@N20
flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/16096573@N02/sets/72157624226380576/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/16096573@N02/
Pete.
http://www.petetaylor.org.uk
LOTUS ELAN flickr GROUP: https://www.flickr.com/groups/2515899@N20
flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/16096573@N02/sets/72157624226380576/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/16096573@N02/
-
elansprint71 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 4437
- Joined: 16 Sep 2003
--- In ***@***.***, "elansprint71" <elansprint71@b...>
wrote:
You have'nt made your wife sit at the back have you?
Brian.
64Elan/72Sprint/J.P.S.Europa
wrote:
You have'nt made your wife sit at the back have you?
Brian.
64Elan/72Sprint/J.P.S.Europa
Brian
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
-
types26/36 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3873
- Joined: 11 Sep 2003
Thanks for all your advice. While the car is up on jacks, is wise to do both
sides? Any tips about disconnecting the "donuts"? I have read somewhere they
need to be compressed before the bolts cab be removed.
Thanks again
David
-----Original Message-----
From: Stan Aarhus [mailto:***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 5:40 PM
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
David,
The seal is separate from the bearing, and provides the primary seal. The
seals on the bearings are meant to keep the grease in and dust/moisture out,
but are not meant to provide critical sealing. This repair can be done
in-situ, if and this is a big IF, the bearing is not frozen, etc. If the
bearing failure damaged the housing, then it is definitely a "diff out" job,
because the housing itself will probably require repair.
The bearing is pressed onto the output shaft and also secured in the inner
side by a snap-ring (cir-clip). To remove the axle and bearing set, first
very aggressively clean out the area around the snap ring. You will
probably encounter a lot of dirt and on the housing, corrosion. Clean this
off as much as possible. A good trick to loosen up the snap ring is to
strike it inward with a drift punch. Do this all around the snap-ring. This
will help free the snap ring from the inevitably corroded housing. Next,
use a heavy duty snap-ring pliers remove the snap ring. No need to remove
it all the way, just free it from the groove. Next, remove the axle and
bearing. The best tool for this is a slide hammer with an adapter to match
up to the triangular drive flange. After removing the axle and bearing, you
will see the seal in its recess just inward from the bearing recess.
Carefully pry it out being careful not to damage its recess or the bearing
recess.
Remove the snap ring that holds the bearing on the axle shaft and press the
bad bearing off the shaft.
If the housing is damaged; corroded or cracked, it will require expert
repair. In a case such as this, I look for a certified welder, preferably a
certified aircraft welder to make the repair. Then of course a good machine
shop to re-machine the housing.
I hope that none of these dire treatments are necessary, and that it turns
out to be an easy "under the car" job.
Good Luck!
Stan A.
----- Original Message -----
From: ALLEN, David
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 11:01 AM
Subject: RE: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Is the seal integral with the bearing? Is it a diff out job or can it be
done laying on your back, in the cold, wet etc.........
How do you pull the bearing out? Any tips?
David
-----Original Message-----
From: Stan Aarhus [mailto:***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 4:46 PM
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Don't forget to replace the lip-seal, just inbord of the bearing. It is
easily pried out and replaced without further disassembly.
Chears!
Stan A.
----- Original Message -----
From: ardee_selby
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 10:28 AM
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Ahhh! Screeching from the diff. That takes me back...26 years! and
the reason it was taken off the road.
In my case it was the output bearing that had broken up due to seal
failure and water ingress...rusty balls no less.
Replacing the (sealed for life!) bearing sorted it and no damage to
the diff was found.
Good Luck - Richard
--- In ***@***.***, "ALLEN, David" <david.allen@e...>
wrote:
sides? Any tips about disconnecting the "donuts"? I have read somewhere they
need to be compressed before the bolts cab be removed.
Thanks again
David
-----Original Message-----
From: Stan Aarhus [mailto:***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 5:40 PM
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
David,
The seal is separate from the bearing, and provides the primary seal. The
seals on the bearings are meant to keep the grease in and dust/moisture out,
but are not meant to provide critical sealing. This repair can be done
in-situ, if and this is a big IF, the bearing is not frozen, etc. If the
bearing failure damaged the housing, then it is definitely a "diff out" job,
because the housing itself will probably require repair.
The bearing is pressed onto the output shaft and also secured in the inner
side by a snap-ring (cir-clip). To remove the axle and bearing set, first
very aggressively clean out the area around the snap ring. You will
probably encounter a lot of dirt and on the housing, corrosion. Clean this
off as much as possible. A good trick to loosen up the snap ring is to
strike it inward with a drift punch. Do this all around the snap-ring. This
will help free the snap ring from the inevitably corroded housing. Next,
use a heavy duty snap-ring pliers remove the snap ring. No need to remove
it all the way, just free it from the groove. Next, remove the axle and
bearing. The best tool for this is a slide hammer with an adapter to match
up to the triangular drive flange. After removing the axle and bearing, you
will see the seal in its recess just inward from the bearing recess.
Carefully pry it out being careful not to damage its recess or the bearing
recess.
Remove the snap ring that holds the bearing on the axle shaft and press the
bad bearing off the shaft.
If the housing is damaged; corroded or cracked, it will require expert
repair. In a case such as this, I look for a certified welder, preferably a
certified aircraft welder to make the repair. Then of course a good machine
shop to re-machine the housing.
I hope that none of these dire treatments are necessary, and that it turns
out to be an easy "under the car" job.
Good Luck!
Stan A.
----- Original Message -----
From: ALLEN, David
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 11:01 AM
Subject: RE: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Is the seal integral with the bearing? Is it a diff out job or can it be
done laying on your back, in the cold, wet etc.........
How do you pull the bearing out? Any tips?
David
-----Original Message-----
From: Stan Aarhus [mailto:***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 4:46 PM
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Don't forget to replace the lip-seal, just inbord of the bearing. It is
easily pried out and replaced without further disassembly.
Chears!
Stan A.
----- Original Message -----
From: ardee_selby
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 10:28 AM
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Ahhh! Screeching from the diff. That takes me back...26 years! and
the reason it was taken off the road.
In my case it was the output bearing that had broken up due to seal
failure and water ingress...rusty balls no less.
Replacing the (sealed for life!) bearing sorted it and no damage to
the diff was found.
Good Luck - Richard
--- In ***@***.***, "ALLEN, David" <david.allen@e...>
wrote:
- davidallen
- Third Gear
- Posts: 292
- Joined: 11 Aug 2005
--- In ***@***.***, "ALLEN, David" <david.allen@e...>
wrote:
David,
It now depends on how far you want to take this. Keep in mind, the
same, additional work, ie, donut removal and axle removal will need
to be done for the other side and donut removal is never easy. If
you really want to do the other side, you might as well remove the
diff to make it a lot easier for axle removal. The diff comes out on
the left hand side of the car, by the way.
You will need two large hose clamps tied together to wrap around the
donut and tightened. Not necessarily for removal but certainly for
installation. Good luck.
Greg Z.
wrote:
David,
It now depends on how far you want to take this. Keep in mind, the
same, additional work, ie, donut removal and axle removal will need
to be done for the other side and donut removal is never easy. If
you really want to do the other side, you might as well remove the
diff to make it a lot easier for axle removal. The diff comes out on
the left hand side of the car, by the way.
You will need two large hose clamps tied together to wrap around the
donut and tightened. Not necessarily for removal but certainly for
installation. Good luck.
Greg Z.
Greg Z
45/0243K Sprint
45/7286 S3 SE DHC
45/0243K Sprint
45/7286 S3 SE DHC
-
gjz30075 - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 3493
- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Hi David,
The donuts definitly need to be compressed to take the side load off the mounting bolts. I favor using three hose clamps screwed together. Why three? This way I can place the worm drive between the bolts, distributing the compressive force, making it a lot easier to evenly compress the donuts.
HTH
Stan A.
----- Original Message -----
From: ALLEN, David
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 7:05 AM
Subject: RE: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Thanks for all your advice. While the car is up on jacks, is wise to do both
sides? Any tips about disconnecting the "donuts"? I have read somewhere they
need to be compressed before the bolts cab be removed.
Thanks again
David
-----Original Message-----
From: Stan Aarhus [mailto:***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 5:40 PM
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
David,
The seal is separate from the bearing, and provides the primary seal. The
seals on the bearings are meant to keep the grease in and dust/moisture out,
but are not meant to provide critical sealing. This repair can be done
in-situ, if and this is a big IF, the bearing is not frozen, etc. If the
bearing failure damaged the housing, then it is definitely a "diff out" job,
because the housing itself will probably require repair.
The bearing is pressed onto the output shaft and also secured in the inner
side by a snap-ring (cir-clip). To remove the axle and bearing set, first
very aggressively clean out the area around the snap ring. You will
probably encounter a lot of dirt and on the housing, corrosion. Clean this
off as much as possible. A good trick to loosen up the snap ring is to
strike it inward with a drift punch. Do this all around the snap-ring. This
will help free the snap ring from the inevitably corroded housing. Next,
use a heavy duty snap-ring pliers remove the snap ring. No need to remove
it all the way, just free it from the groove. Next, remove the axle and
bearing. The best tool for this is a slide hammer with an adapter to match
up to the triangular drive flange. After removing the axle and bearing, you
will see the seal in its recess just inward from the bearing recess.
Carefully pry it out being careful not to damage its recess or the bearing
recess.
Remove the snap ring that holds the bearing on the axle shaft and press the
bad bearing off the shaft.
If the housing is damaged; corroded or cracked, it will require expert
repair. In a case such as this, I look for a certified welder, preferably a
certified aircraft welder to make the repair. Then of course a good machine
shop to re-machine the housing.
I hope that none of these dire treatments are necessary, and that it turns
out to be an easy "under the car" job.
Good Luck!
Stan A.
----- Original Message -----
From: ALLEN, David
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 11:01 AM
Subject: RE: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Is the seal integral with the bearing? Is it a diff out job or can it be
done laying on your back, in the cold, wet etc.........
How do you pull the bearing out? Any tips?
David
-----Original Message-----
From: Stan Aarhus [mailto:***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 4:46 PM
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Don't forget to replace the lip-seal, just inbord of the bearing. It is
easily pried out and replaced without further disassembly.
Chears!
Stan A.
----- Original Message -----
From: ardee_selby
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 10:28 AM
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Ahhh! Screeching from the diff. That takes me back...26 years! and
the reason it was taken off the road.
In my case it was the output bearing that had broken up due to seal
failure and water ingress...rusty balls no less.
Replacing the (sealed for life!) bearing sorted it and no damage to
the diff was found.
Good Luck - Richard
--- In ***@***.***, "ALLEN, David" <david.allen@e...>
wrote:
The donuts definitly need to be compressed to take the side load off the mounting bolts. I favor using three hose clamps screwed together. Why three? This way I can place the worm drive between the bolts, distributing the compressive force, making it a lot easier to evenly compress the donuts.
HTH
Stan A.
----- Original Message -----
From: ALLEN, David
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Monday, November 10, 2003 7:05 AM
Subject: RE: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Thanks for all your advice. While the car is up on jacks, is wise to do both
sides? Any tips about disconnecting the "donuts"? I have read somewhere they
need to be compressed before the bolts cab be removed.
Thanks again
David
-----Original Message-----
From: Stan Aarhus [mailto:***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 5:40 PM
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
David,
The seal is separate from the bearing, and provides the primary seal. The
seals on the bearings are meant to keep the grease in and dust/moisture out,
but are not meant to provide critical sealing. This repair can be done
in-situ, if and this is a big IF, the bearing is not frozen, etc. If the
bearing failure damaged the housing, then it is definitely a "diff out" job,
because the housing itself will probably require repair.
The bearing is pressed onto the output shaft and also secured in the inner
side by a snap-ring (cir-clip). To remove the axle and bearing set, first
very aggressively clean out the area around the snap ring. You will
probably encounter a lot of dirt and on the housing, corrosion. Clean this
off as much as possible. A good trick to loosen up the snap ring is to
strike it inward with a drift punch. Do this all around the snap-ring. This
will help free the snap ring from the inevitably corroded housing. Next,
use a heavy duty snap-ring pliers remove the snap ring. No need to remove
it all the way, just free it from the groove. Next, remove the axle and
bearing. The best tool for this is a slide hammer with an adapter to match
up to the triangular drive flange. After removing the axle and bearing, you
will see the seal in its recess just inward from the bearing recess.
Carefully pry it out being careful not to damage its recess or the bearing
recess.
Remove the snap ring that holds the bearing on the axle shaft and press the
bad bearing off the shaft.
If the housing is damaged; corroded or cracked, it will require expert
repair. In a case such as this, I look for a certified welder, preferably a
certified aircraft welder to make the repair. Then of course a good machine
shop to re-machine the housing.
I hope that none of these dire treatments are necessary, and that it turns
out to be an easy "under the car" job.
Good Luck!
Stan A.
----- Original Message -----
From: ALLEN, David
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 11:01 AM
Subject: RE: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Is the seal integral with the bearing? Is it a diff out job or can it be
done laying on your back, in the cold, wet etc.........
How do you pull the bearing out? Any tips?
David
-----Original Message-----
From: Stan Aarhus [mailto:***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 4:46 PM
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Don't forget to replace the lip-seal, just inbord of the bearing. It is
easily pried out and replaced without further disassembly.
Chears!
Stan A.
----- Original Message -----
From: ardee_selby
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2003 10:28 AM
Subject: [LotusElan.net] Re: leaking seal
Ahhh! Screeching from the diff. That takes me back...26 years! and
the reason it was taken off the road.
In my case it was the output bearing that had broken up due to seal
failure and water ingress...rusty balls no less.
Replacing the (sealed for life!) bearing sorted it and no damage to
the diff was found.
Good Luck - Richard
--- In ***@***.***, "ALLEN, David" <david.allen@e...>
wrote:
- saarhus
- Third Gear
- Posts: 468
- Joined: 12 Oct 2003
Stan wrote:
three? This way I can place the worm drive between the bolts, distributing
the compressive force, making it a lot easier to evenly compress the
donuts.<<<
I switched out the donuts on the Lotus 51 formula Ford last week with new
units from Dave Bean . . I was pleasantly surprised to find that I had to
release the restraint-bands and allow them to expand slightly before they
could be fitted! . . hmmmmm, maybe I just deserved some luck that day . .
Tony
three? This way I can place the worm drive between the bolts, distributing
the compressive force, making it a lot easier to evenly compress the
donuts.<<<
I switched out the donuts on the Lotus 51 formula Ford last week with new
units from Dave Bean . . I was pleasantly surprised to find that I had to
release the restraint-bands and allow them to expand slightly before they
could be fitted! . . hmmmmm, maybe I just deserved some luck that day . .
Tony
- lotustony
- Second Gear
- Posts: 165
- Joined: 08 Oct 2003
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