Magnesium, Aluminium gearbox bits

PostPost by: mark030358 » Sun Dec 07, 2008 3:24 am

Been thinking about buying light weight bell housing and tail shaft for my S4. There are some advertised on ebay right now anybody bought from this guy? Quality and service? Or should I just go to TT??

A bit of a stupid thing but I've had the box rebuilt by a 3rd party as I have cogs and stuff, but does the tail shaft just bolt on or do I have to start disassembling stuff??

Thanks
Mark

72 Sprint
69 S4 coming together :)))
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Sun Dec 07, 2008 7:50 am

Mark

As our friends over the pond would say "Bangs for Bucks" or something like that?....Would it be worth it.....or has the recession not hit Chester yet?

John :wink:
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PostPost by: miked » Sun Dec 07, 2008 9:44 am

Mark,

You do have to take the lid off and maul. Watch out for the litle mech' interlock bits. Easy to drop in.


Mike
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PostPost by: garyeanderson » Sun Dec 07, 2008 12:34 pm

Hi Mark

I've been doing some gearbox work lately. Trying to get an idea of the inventory of Wide, Semi-Close and Close gearboxes. To change over the bellhousing, drain the gear oil in the box or the gear oil will leak out when you pull out the bottom left bellhousing bolt (looking rearward).
The tail shaft replacement is started by pulling the (4) 5/16" bolts off the gearbox lid along with the lid and cutting the safety wire on the 3 shift forks, remove shift fork bolts (5/16 inch bolt head). Take off the shift tower (4) 5/16 " with 1/2 inch head and now you can slide the 1/2 shift fork out, when its nearly at the back, rotate the shift fork nearly 90 degrees (there goes that interlock plunger) and continue to withdraw fork. Once out, the other 2 shift forks will come out, there are still the other 2 barrals of the interlock to remove from the case with a magnet. Now the (5) 3/8 unc bolts can be removed from the tailshaft with a 9/16" wrentch and the tailshaft case withdrawn. No need to mess with the internals unless you want to swap out synchro/baulk rings and bearings

Gary

Semi-close Ultra close, Semi-close, Wide, Semi-close, Semi-close, Semi-close
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alloy ultra-close
Image[/img]
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PostPost by: twincamman » Sun Dec 07, 2008 7:00 pm

Son of a Bin --no wonder I cant find a tranny for my super 7 -- :cry: -ed-
dont close your eyes --you will miss the crash

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PostPost by: miked » Sun Dec 07, 2008 9:56 pm

Gary,

Are those solid Anglia gear levers that I see there?
Do you just heat them to take out some bend and then cut back and fit a stud?

I have one ready for the track project but have not touched it yet. Still full length with quite a bend.

Mike
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PostPost by: garyeanderson » Sun Dec 07, 2008 10:28 pm

hi Mike

The three gear levers used to be the long floor change from the early Cortina. They were heated til red, straightened, chucked in a lath and the middle turmed down to .310" over the appropreate distance and then cut to length, a 5/16 unf thread put on the gear lever and lastly re-heated cheri red then bent to the the right angle for use in the Elan.

Several of the gearboxs are made up of late 2000e integral remote Cortina semi-close boxes with the early tailshaft housing and shift rails removed from a wide box.

Directions can be had at

http://www.fordanglia105eownersclub.co. ... artone.htm

Gary
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PostPost by: miked » Tue Dec 09, 2008 1:16 pm

Gary,

Thanks for the information. I will have a proper look at the link.

Re the Anglia stick. Am I right in thinking this has more crank and is longer as it went in the same place as our Elan box. And that the Cortina was on a remote and shorter. I would have known, way back. Do seem to recall me "ragging" an Anglia stick about on my Dads car on the drive when I was 4 in 1961. :lol:

Have you shortened an Anglia one or do you think they are too cranked and may fatigue? Should I get the Cortina one?

Mike
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PostPost by: garyeanderson » Tue Dec 09, 2008 2:20 pm

Hi Mike

The tailshaft case and shifter Donor mk1 Cortina gearbox cost me $75 and another $60 for the Shipping

Image

The main case and internal gears donor is the semi-close box (1967 - 70 ~ integral remote GT box)
see the blue box (farthest away), I think it cost me another $200 or so.
All 3 gear levers in this photo have no use in the elan, you want the steel pivot ball, those later molded pivots are nfg in my opinion.
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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Tue Dec 09, 2008 2:34 pm

Those gear levers do look interesting.
My original Elan fabricated lever, having the welded on ring with rubber bushing provides marginal clearance to the Dashboard in 1st & 3rd gear & if I'm not totally positive with the change up to 3rd the car sometimes pops out of gear.
I think one of those Anglia / Cortina jobs would be a solution, providing a bit more clearance.
Are they easy to source in GB?
No I cannot move the Engine / Gearbox further back in the chassis just in case that thought occurred.
The Thermostat housing on the back of the Zetec would then be too close to the Bulkhead.
What does the gearchange feel like without the damping provided by the rubber bushing?
Does it feel like you've got your own hands in the Gearbox? :)

Cheers
John
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PostPost by: CBUEB1771 » Tue Dec 09, 2008 9:45 pm

D.J.Pelly wrote:What does the gearchange feel like without the damping provided by the rubber bushing?
Does it feel like you've got your own hands in the Gearbox?


I have eliminated the rubber bushing in my +2. The feel is improved nicely right up until the point when you try to beat the synchros. Then it feels like someone is applying a pneumatic chipping hammer to your fingers or palm, depending on which way you were trying to move the lever.
Russ Newton
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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Wed Dec 10, 2008 10:44 am

Guessed that could be the case :)
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PostPost by: Robbie693 » Wed Dec 10, 2008 10:47 am

Am I right in thinking this has more crank and is longer as it went in the same place as our Elan box. And that the Cortina was on a remote and shorter


I had a MkII Cortina 1500 that had the long gearlever i.e. no remote, so it wasn't just Anglias
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PostPost by: CBUEB1771 » Wed Dec 10, 2008 1:57 pm

twincamman wrote:my son in law tried to 'beat the syncros' on my super 7


When I said "try to beat the synchros" I was actually being dishonest and trying to avoid being taken to task. If I was honest I would have said "when I don't pay attention to what I am doing and start to let the clutch engage before the selector fork is fully home.." I try to follow the instruction I got in the Skip Barber FF course which is that if you apply more force to the gear lever than you can do with two finger tips then you are looking for a crunch.
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PostPost by: garyeanderson » Wed Dec 10, 2008 2:26 pm

Crunch away, I got a few left over parts. Of course some are better than others



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stuff is getting expensive...

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/lotus-cortina- ... centre-ltd
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