Reinstalling trunnions and upper ball joints

[collins_dan]

I'm about to rebuild the trunnions and install new upper ball joints on my S4. Read through the manual last night, dis-assembly seems straightforward (although I'm sure everything will be fused together). Reassembly (the reverse of dis-assembly, if only it was that easy) seems straightforward if I stick with the correct torque settings in the technical data section. What's unclear is once I put the trunnion back on the vertical link, how many turns do I need to back it off? Also, do most people reinstall the upper ball joint on the vertical link in a vise, then re-install to the wishbones? Almost, seems like I could put everything (vertical link, mounting plate, dust cover, hub...) back to together on the bench, then re-install the whole thing to the wishbones and steering rack? Any advice appreciated.

Dan
S4 SE

[paddy]

The trunnions screw on as far as they will go whilst still being able to turn ~90 degrees in each direction from the "straight ahead" position. When you have a brand new oil seal on them this might seem to be too stiff but it very soon settles down and turns quite freely.

Paddy

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

Unless you intend to replace the inboard bushes I would leave the wishbones attached to the chassis & just temove the upright along with the trunnion & ball joint.
In fact I would do it that way anyway also in reverse order.
Putting the whole assembly together on a bench may have its attractions but not really an alternative because you would not get the wishbones on or off the chassis studs.
Apart from that the whole assembly would be heavy & unwieldly & there's only really room for one person when working in that area.
(Well anywhere on an Elan )
The trunnions should be screwed as far home as possible but with sufficient free movement to permit full lock to lock movement of the steering.

Good luck
John

[gerrym]

Concur that easiest reassembly is to have wishbones on chassis, then offer up upright-trunnion-balljoint-hub assembly.

You probably already know this, but I recall that dustshield has to be bolted onto upright, together with caliper adaptor, after the trunnion is in position. Then the hub/disk combination after this.

Regards

Gerry

Separate thread, has anyone tried the stainless steel disk shields for sale at Canley Classics, Plus 2 or (baby) Elan models?

[alexblack13]

Hi All,

I agree also on the bench is best. When rebuilding don't go easy on the copperslip. Fit your new trunnion by screwing fully home, as far as it will go, then back it off till it lines up with the bones. As all the guys have said previously.

Lub' well on ass'y. Make sure the grease nipple is clear and clean. Pump some lub' thro' it before ass'y. Clean it out. For service / lub' I use Kluber Liquid grease. I know everyone says 90 oil but I don't. Kluber is friggin dear but the best IMHO. Good quality black Moly grease is also very good. So is 90 oil mind you. Grease (or oil) them weekly if you are using the car a lot. Couple of strokes each.


Gerry, Backplates..

I am going to fit a set of these. The ones on the car when I got it had very bad rust. I blasted them and hand painted them in Hammerite. Looked great for a while but rust now shining thro' again


Cheers all....

[gerrym]

Alex, let us know how the Canley SS backplates go. My blasted and painted ones are also showing renewed rusting so will replace/upgrade one day.

Re the Kluber liquid grease, I'm familiar with Kluber products for commercial use but no idea who supplies this product at the retail scale. Care to advise your source?

Thanks

Gerry

[alexblack13]

Hi Gerry,
I can probably spare you a gun full, I carry it in my car (Most of the time!) I use it in Auto lube systems on the machinery I sell/service/install/commission.

But If you want a new can full I can get it for you from the company I work for. Want me to find out cost? I am in Aberdeen and slightly North of this tues /wed. Staying in Ellon. Seeing some clients.

Alex.