Hi all,

I am just about to install the newly built engine and gearbox into the chassis. Realistically the engine is not going to be fired for at least 12 months while the body gets painted, interior trimmning etc.

Is there any way I can prevent the clutch plate sticking to the flywheel? - was thinking about spraying a couple of coats of cellulose lacquer onto the flywheel to stop it rusting to the friction plate - will this work, I am assuming the lacquer would burn off after a few uses of the clutch?

Or any other ideas?

Cheers.

Jon

How about relieving the clamp load on the driven plate by replacing the slave cylinder and push rod with a length of threaded rod engaged with the release arm at one end and passing through the slave cylinder mounting hole at the other. Couple of nuts and suitable washers and you can hold the clutch in the released position.

regards,

Thats exactly how to do it. Some have also been known to jam down the pedal with a suitable timber batton. This loads up all the hydraulics though.

Only downside to using the rod method is of course possible weakening of the pressure plate springs. But it will stop the plate sticking.

You could also start the engine once per week (say) and slip the clutch a little to clean it up. Warm the engine fully if doing this. A set of rollers for the back axle allows one to go up and down the gearbox as well. All usefull stuff.

Have fun

Hi Jon,

why are you anticipating that your Clutch will stick?
That problem usually occurs to Cars that have been used on the road & probably put away wet & left for a long time.
If you are using new dry parts & the project is kept dry there should be no reason for anything to corrode (much).
I think you may be worrying unduly.
(Always happy to eat my Words )

Cheers
John

Hi. Mine didn't stick - same situation. I had the bell housing sealed up completely apart from the little opening at the bottom of the covers on the underside. The aim was to minimise the amount of moisture getting to the clutch assembly. Having said that I haven't managed to put the covers back in after the last engine lift so it'll probably suffer this winter, but my plan is to keep running it every couple of weeks or so.

All the best.

Sean.

I think you worry unduly. In addition to my more recent purchase of a +2 I have owned a Cortina MkI since 1984. I restored it in 1990. Since then it covers less than 100 miles per year. Generally I bring it out of (relatively dry, but not ACed) hibernation every two years for its MoT. Biggest challenge is brakes that need cylinder honing every four to six years. Clutch generally makes a bit of a swooshing sound to shed any surface issues that has occured the first time it is released and then off I go. Never apply handbrake though. Dont tell me how I found out...... (I was younger and dumber)

If you store it in relatively dry conditions, 12 months should not make the clutch stick. (IMHO)

Looks like Jon is from Cumbria so the clutch may be subject to more moisture than in the US...

Matthew

My Cortina has lived its life in the not so sunny western Norway.... Not a dry day