Lotus Elan

Cosworth YB Turbo Into Elan

PostPost by: Andy8421 » Thu Aug 02, 2018 3:33 am

Steve,

If the splitter is working as advertised, it can generate some decent loads. Clearly the speeds are much higher, and splitter surface area bigger with modern circuit cars, but there are many examples of cars with cable stays from the bodywork out to the front edge of the splitter to help reduce the cantilever effect trying to snap the splitter off.

I can't tell what reinforcing is in place from the pictures, but have you figured out the forces and have adequate strength in the splitter area?

Great work by the way.
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PostPost by: stevebroad » Thu Aug 02, 2018 9:02 am

Andy8421 wrote:Steve,

If the splitter is working as advertised, it can generate some decent loads. Clearly the speeds are much higher, and splitter surface area bigger with modern circuit cars, but there are many examples of cars with cable stays from the bodywork out to the front edge of the splitter to help reduce the cantilever effect trying to snap the splitter off.

I can't tell what reinforcing is in place from the pictures, but have you figured out the forces and have adequate strength in the splitter area?

Great work by the way.


Thanks.

The splitter is an integral part of the front clip. 4 layers of carbon, 5mm foam core then another 2 layers of carbon. These layers extend up to the bottom of the grill opening. I decided to build the splitter into the clip for various reasons, the main two being:

Ease of attachment, no stays or fixing bolts required. Stays and bolts add weight and require mounting points
to be rigid, adding more weight.

Greatly stiffens the front of the car, thereby reducing the amount of carbon required elsewhere and saving
weight.

The length was chosen after a lot of research. 100mm was settled on because:

Front downforce starts to tail off after around 100mm.

splitter-length.jpg
splitter-length.jpg (16.56 KiB) Viewed 678 times


Adding too much front downforce would require additional rear downforce to compensate, resulting in more
drag and I am looking for as little drag as possible.

Anything longer started to look out of proportion to the rest of the car. Although performance is the
predominate criterion, aesthetics are still important :-)

The only downside, and why most splitters are detachable, is if I hit something with it a lot more damage will occur, which is one of the reasons circuit cars have detachable splitters. However, If I hit something with it on the drag strip a detachable one would make little difference :-)

It may not look like it to some, but a fair bit of thought, research and design has gone into this car. I haven't simply followed convention or the sheep :-) Also, as there is nothing on the shelf that I can buy everything has to be designed and built with no reference to similar builds. I live or die by my decisions and build quality :-)
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PostPost by: stevebroad » Mon Aug 06, 2018 9:05 pm

Just made the gurneyish strip that will deflect the air around the join between splitter and undertray. No I just have to cut the undertray to match. This could be a tad tricky as I willbe working upside down and the tray will cover the strip so I will be working blind. Trim a little bit at a time, methinks, until I can see the strip's front edge.

undertray-gurney-glued-060818.jpg and
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PostPost by: stevebroad » Wed Aug 08, 2018 1:04 pm

Front section of undertray now fits.

undertray-front-section-cut-to-size-080818-1.jpg and


Next task is to make support brackets for the undertray. Settled on a carbon/aramid mix as it is more flexible than pure carbon, allowing the brackets to be sprung on to the front clip support tubes. It is also better than aluminium, being less than half the weight (7gm compared to 17gms) and grips the tube tighter.

https://youtu.be/r0HrE3rZWME
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PostPost by: stevebroad » Fri Aug 10, 2018 9:54 am

Made a few more aero parts today so I thought I would gather up everything not already fitted. This lot weighs a humongous 5kg :-)

aero-parts-090818.jpg and
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PostPost by: stevebroad » Sat Aug 11, 2018 5:32 pm

Sorted out water leak trap, thereby using undertray for two purposes. Also the trap sides add additional stiffness to the tray, negating the need for additional strengthening. A win win :-) I will do the same on the tray under the engine.

undertray-water-trap-110818.jpg and
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PostPost by: stevebroad » Mon Aug 13, 2018 9:25 pm

In correspondence with my tame aerodynamicist with regard to the layout of strakes, skirts, splitters and VGs on my new underbody panels. Also discussing diffuser design.

underfloor-aero-design.jpg and
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PostPost by: stevebroad » Sat Sep 15, 2018 10:59 am

Had my first walk around the car since getting it back from having the wiring completed, making a list of jobs still to do. Probably missed a lot but this is something to work on :-)

Secure intercooler
Modify radiator brackets to allow repositioning.
Fit air filter box
Finish air intake pipework
Fit header tank pipes
Get header tank filler cap
New pipe from overflow bottle to header tank.
Make new exhaust heat shields in CF
Fit wiper motor (either fix original or replace)
Finish front bulkhead and add heat shield material
Finish engine bay bodywork
Secure and adjust steering rack/rod ends for bump steer
Finish front clip
Fit injector rail and injectors
Connect up loom. Adjust position and wire lengths where necessary
Repostion ECU support bracket
Fit dash cover and cut hole for access
Fit screen wash jets and piping
Weld in additional roll cage tubing behind seats
Fit roll cage cushioning
Fit interior panels
Make doors and glass
Secure glove box door
Secure switch panel
Secure centre console and tidy up edges
Make front screen
Make and fit new roof and rear screen
Sort out fire supression system
Fit EGT and Lamda sensors
Fit oil filler cap
Get and fit plug leads
Fit plugs
Secure fuel tank and nitrous bottle
Get new electric bottle opener (or fix old one)
Fit fuel filler cap
Fit rear lamps
Finish droop limiters
Tighten ALL nuts and bolts, marking as I go.
Door locks and hinges
Get seat belts and fit
Parachute bracket
Under floor trays, side splitters and strakes
Rear view mirror
Fit and wire up remote tyre temp sensors
Change front springs
Make new radiator bottom hose
Fit hose clips to header tank hoses and secure
Fit exhaust box and cover
Fit heat shield material behind exhaust box
Fit boot
Bond in floors
Bolt on exhaust manifold and turbo
Fit turbo support strut
Reposition alternator/battery cable
Repostion loom through bulkhead and fit grommets/covers
Final fit of loom, adjusting wire lengths where necessary
Connect battery
Sort out wheels and tyres
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PostPost by: elanfan1 » Sun Sep 16, 2018 9:08 am

Whatever will you do with yourself when it’s finished? Years of fettling?.....
Steve

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PostPost by: stevebroad » Sun Sep 16, 2018 9:29 am

elanfan1 wrote:Whatever will you do with yourself when it’s finished? Years of fettling?.....


:-)

Well, there will be racing to fit in, which will highlight areas that need improvement/modification, so I think that I will be able to keep myself busy :-)
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PostPost by: stevebroad » Thu Sep 20, 2018 6:11 pm

Made all of the underfloor panels, just need to cut rear section to size. Next task is how to secure them. Decided to bolt them on so had to make threaded inserts to glue into the existing carbon floor plus washers to stop the screws pulling through the thin panels. I hate making more than one of anything but I need around 30! Oh, well, spoon and Elephant to the rescue again :-) Photos shows how they will work. They will be cleaned up prior to fitting :-)

20180919_160419.jpg and


20180919_160225.jpg and


20180920_182419.jpg and
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PostPost by: cudabenefast » Thu Sep 20, 2018 11:31 pm

Steve, perhaps too late now, however, if you need more fasteners like this, they are readily available in the form of aluminium bicycle chainring bolts. There are several depths and generally two diameters and they come in a range of colours. The usually have either torx 26 or allen key fitting on one side with the additional provision for a flat bladed screw driver on one side.

Sorry for the late notice!

Peter

PS Love the project and I presume you work with Sinatra singing "MY Way" in the background.
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PostPost by: Certified Lotus » Fri Sep 21, 2018 7:02 am

Steve, totally fascinated by your level of detail. Keep up the great craftsmanship!
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PostPost by: stevebroad » Fri Sep 21, 2018 9:09 am

cudabenefast wrote:Steve, perhaps too late now, however, if you need more fasteners like this, they are readily available in the form of aluminium bicycle chainring bolts. There are several depths and generally two diameters and they come in a range of colours. The usually have either torx 26 or allen key fitting on one side with the additional provision for a flat bladed screw driver on one side.

Sorry for the late notice!

Peter

PS Love the project and I presume you work with Sinatra singing "MY Way" in the background.


Hi Pete

I am aware of these things :-) I only make stuff if I can't get it elsewhere or I can make it cheaper. I needed fasteners that were a specific depth (of the car's floor thickness) and had large diameter heads in order to spread the load due to the thinness of the underfloor trays (apporx 0.5mm). The cycle (and motor bike) offerings are nice but none were the right size.

But thanks for your interest and suggestion, keep them coming :-)

The Sinatra thing made me chuckle :-) Sometimes I feel like playing AC/DC's Highway to Hell!"
Last edited by stevebroad on Fri Sep 21, 2018 10:41 am, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPost by: stevebroad » Fri Sep 21, 2018 9:09 am

Certified Lotus wrote:Steve, totally fascinated by your level of detail. Keep up the great craftsmanship!


Thanks Glen.
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