New +2 zetec owner
23 posts
• Page 1 of 2 • 1, 2
I have joined as I am now the proud new owner of a ?68 +2 with a Spydercars zetec conversion. It?s the one that was discussed earlier this week in the for sale forum.
It?s 95% finished, it needs carpets and some fettling. I have loads of questions, the first being does the heater actually turn off in a plus 2? It?s like a sauna today, the weather not helping.
Tim
- TAS
- First Gear
- Posts: 22
- Joined: 09 Apr 2018
Hi Tim, congratulations on your purchase. I thought it was a good price as the car's had a lot done to it.
Regarding the heating, yes it is supposed to turn off, but the flaps in the heater box get worn out over time and the heater is always on. You can get cold air from the eyeball vents in the dash, but this is not enough. You will need to take the heater box out and overhaul it, it's a beast of a job by all accounts, so for now just fit a valve in the heater supply pipe.
Like I just did: elan-wanted-f4/heater-control-cables-t41469.html#p294932
Total cost, ?14.
With this in place, you can shut off the heater's hot water supply and get more cold air into the car.
Regarding the heating, yes it is supposed to turn off, but the flaps in the heater box get worn out over time and the heater is always on. You can get cold air from the eyeball vents in the dash, but this is not enough. You will need to take the heater box out and overhaul it, it's a beast of a job by all accounts, so for now just fit a valve in the heater supply pipe.
Like I just did: elan-wanted-f4/heater-control-cables-t41469.html#p294932
Total cost, ?14.
With this in place, you can shut off the heater's hot water supply and get more cold air into the car.
-
JonB - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2399
- Joined: 14 Nov 2017
JonB wrote:Hi Tim, congratulations on your purchase. I thought it was a good price as the car's had a lot done to it.
Regarding the heating, yes it is supposed to turn off, but the flaps in the heater box get worn out over time and the heater is always on. You can get cold air from the eyeball vents in the dash, but this is not enough. You will need to take the heater box out and overhaul it, it's a beast of a job by all accounts, so for now just fit a valve in the heater supply pipe.
Like I just did: elan-wanted-f4/heater-control-cables-t41469.html#p294932
Total cost, ?14.
With this in place, you can shut off the heater's hot water supply and get more cold air into the car.
Thanks Jon,
I will get something like that fitted. I had an early midget that had a very similar manual tap for summer...
I need to work out how to bleed the cooling system as well, it?s running hot now and was fine when I first looked at, I suspect it?s an airlock from googling hot zetec.
- TAS
- First Gear
- Posts: 22
- Joined: 09 Apr 2018
Welcome to Elan.net and well done with your purchase.
As for the hot running, it?s most likely a sticky thermostat, the Zetec engines run a Raceline water rail which solves the problem of the thermostat being at the back of the engine tight against the bulkhead. You just need to undo the capscrews under the pressure cap filler neck, pop the stat out and replace. I use a 78 degree stat in mine.
You might notice on warmup that the temperature gauge rises quite quickly and almost goes into the red this is because the temperature sender is upstream of the thermostat and is nothing to worry about, it very quickly will go to normal once the stat opens.
As for the hot running, it?s most likely a sticky thermostat, the Zetec engines run a Raceline water rail which solves the problem of the thermostat being at the back of the engine tight against the bulkhead. You just need to undo the capscrews under the pressure cap filler neck, pop the stat out and replace. I use a 78 degree stat in mine.
You might notice on warmup that the temperature gauge rises quite quickly and almost goes into the red this is because the temperature sender is upstream of the thermostat and is nothing to worry about, it very quickly will go to normal once the stat opens.
Kindest regards
Alan Thomas
Alan Thomas
-
Spyder fan - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2844
- Joined: 11 Jun 2009
Hi Tim,
Yes it?s a Ford stat. The housing accepts the same stat as a lotus Twincam QTH100 82 degree or QTH102 88 degree. ( Quinton Hazel part numbers) ignore my 78 degree I was having brain fade when I wrote that. I would recommend the lower temperature or your fan will cut in every time you come to a halt.
Yes it?s a Ford stat. The housing accepts the same stat as a lotus Twincam QTH100 82 degree or QTH102 88 degree. ( Quinton Hazel part numbers) ignore my 78 degree I was having brain fade when I wrote that. I would recommend the lower temperature or your fan will cut in every time you come to a halt.
Last edited by Spyder fan on Fri Apr 20, 2018 8:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Kindest regards
Alan Thomas
Alan Thomas
-
Spyder fan - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2844
- Joined: 11 Jun 2009
Not sure about the thermostats in the UK for the Zetec, but here in the US, they use a dual path unit with a valve that closes off a passage that routes the water to the water pump during the warm up period. When the water reaches operating temperature, the opening of the thermostat closes of the by pass route. This is done to keep water circulating during warm up so hot spots occur. I would go to a Ford dealership and see what type of thermostat is used in the car from which the engine came. The standard thermostat for the Zetecs here, is an 85c unit. My Plus2 Zetec conversion runs between 85 and 87c under all conditions, even here in the re-claimed desert.
Rob Walker
26-4889
50-0315N
1964 Sabra GT
1964 Elva Mk4T Coupe (awaiting restoration)
1965 Ford Falcon Ranchero, 302,AOD,9",rack and pinion,disc,etc,etc,etc
1954 Nash Healey LeMans Coupe
Owning a Lotus will get you off the couch
26-4889
50-0315N
1964 Sabra GT
1964 Elva Mk4T Coupe (awaiting restoration)
1965 Ford Falcon Ranchero, 302,AOD,9",rack and pinion,disc,etc,etc,etc
1954 Nash Healey LeMans Coupe
Owning a Lotus will get you off the couch
- prezoom
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1337
- Joined: 16 Mar 2009
There have been overheating problems related to the Raceline water rails for the zetec motor. Some info here on the problem and fixes at the Turbosport forum ( http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?t=104681) and on the Caterham forum. The Raceline unit moves the thermostat 15 inches or so away from the port in the block so that the thermostat action lags the temperature changes in the motor. Retroford does one that doesn't shift the thermostat quite that far away.
Dunnell has a rather expensive adapter that solves the clearance problem between the motor and the firewall in RWD installations while keeping the thermostat closer to its original position. http://www.dunnellengines.com/datasheet ... 20Rail.pdf
That's why when building mine (no surprise there), I blatantly copied their design. You might PM Rob Walker (Prezoom) and ask why his runs cool in all conditions. Maybe he'll fess up in this thread.
I'm not saying that this is your problem but if changing the thermostat doesn't solve it, you might want to check out the links above.
Dunnell has a rather expensive adapter that solves the clearance problem between the motor and the firewall in RWD installations while keeping the thermostat closer to its original position. http://www.dunnellengines.com/datasheet ... 20Rail.pdf
That's why when building mine (no surprise there), I blatantly copied their design. You might PM Rob Walker (Prezoom) and ask why his runs cool in all conditions. Maybe he'll fess up in this thread.
I'm not saying that this is your problem but if changing the thermostat doesn't solve it, you might want to check out the links above.
Bud
1970 +2S Fed 0053N
"Winnemucca - says it all really!!"
1970 +2S Fed 0053N
"Winnemucca - says it all really!!"
- Bud English
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1081
- Joined: 05 Nov 2011
My +2 Zetec runs fine all day long in the hottest stop start traffic, no problems with overheating. The design of the Raceline water rail isn?t the best, but it?s what Tim has fitted and it would be expensive to change it in time and money probably both.
The thermostat housing fitted to the Raceline rails accepts the standard Ford pre crossflow type thermostats. After a long period of little or no use they have a tendency to get a bit sticky in this situation, hence my advice to Tim based on experience. http://www.burtonpower.com/special-ther ... p610m.html
If I were building my car again I would use the Dunnel water rail ( or fabricate my own ), those of you who have followed my posts regarding ride height, steering lock and exhaust manifolds for the Spyder converted Zetec cars know that I have a little bit of experience regarding the Spyder converted cars and that many of my ?upgrades? have been adopted by Spyder.
Edit to add link to thermostat housing
The thermostat housing fitted to the Raceline rails accepts the standard Ford pre crossflow type thermostats. After a long period of little or no use they have a tendency to get a bit sticky in this situation, hence my advice to Tim based on experience. http://www.burtonpower.com/special-ther ... p610m.html
If I were building my car again I would use the Dunnel water rail ( or fabricate my own ), those of you who have followed my posts regarding ride height, steering lock and exhaust manifolds for the Spyder converted Zetec cars know that I have a little bit of experience regarding the Spyder converted cars and that many of my ?upgrades? have been adopted by Spyder.
Edit to add link to thermostat housing
Last edited by Spyder fan on Sat Apr 21, 2018 7:19 am, edited 1 time in total.
Kindest regards
Alan Thomas
Alan Thomas
-
Spyder fan - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2844
- Joined: 11 Jun 2009
I?ve got a thermostat coming on Monday as a starting point, hopefully that will cure it.. the car has been stood for a while, it?s only done 1,200 miles since the conversion was finished in 2014 so I expect some issues need solving.
Thanks for all your advice so far.
Spyderfan, how have you improved the steering lock, it?s not great.
Thanks for all your advice so far.
Spyderfan, how have you improved the steering lock, it?s not great.
- TAS
- First Gear
- Posts: 22
- Joined: 09 Apr 2018
Tim,
The steering lock can be improved by re-drilling the steering arms to move the track rod ends in a little, this results in more steering effort being required, but pulling out onto narrow roads is a lot easier and 5 point turns become 2 or 3 point.
Best to come over to see mine at Pevensey and have a go before doing it, but it is reversible as you simply just reconnect to the original holes.
The steering lock can be improved by re-drilling the steering arms to move the track rod ends in a little, this results in more steering effort being required, but pulling out onto narrow roads is a lot easier and 5 point turns become 2 or 3 point.
Best to come over to see mine at Pevensey and have a go before doing it, but it is reversible as you simply just reconnect to the original holes.
Kindest regards
Alan Thomas
Alan Thomas
-
Spyder fan - Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 2844
- Joined: 11 Jun 2009
23 posts
• Page 1 of 2 • 1, 2
Total Online:
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 9 guests