Fuel pump gasket

PostPost by: daverubberduck » Mon Jan 23, 2017 9:28 am

Hi, I have just replaced my fuel pump. The old one was a metal top one and was putting out way too much fuel pressure. I have replaced it with a glass top one. This pump came with a normal gasket. On PM's site I see that their fuel pump gasket is very thick, pic below. Why is that? Is this gasket acting as a spacer or is it insulating the pump from vibration, or what? I have not yet started up the engine, wanted to check this first. Dave
fuel-pump-gasket-pm.jpg and
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PostPost by: ericbushby » Mon Jan 23, 2017 10:08 am

I believe it is there for heat insulation.
My new all metal pump gave too high a pressure so I fitted a pressure regulator.
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PostPost by: Mazzini » Mon Jan 23, 2017 10:35 am

Its a spacer, you need to fit it.
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PostPost by: oldchieft » Mon Jan 23, 2017 12:21 pm

if you leave the spacer off apart from heat soak into the pump making hot starts a problem, you may wreck the engine.

The story runs like this, the arm is pressing too hard on the cam eccentric and will wear it causing metal particles in the oil this blocks the filter so the bypass opens letting unfiltered oil past, wrecked engine results.

This is pictured in Miles Wilkins book on page 88.

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PostPost by: daverubberduck » Mon Jan 23, 2017 12:41 pm

Many thanks for all of your replies, really glad I asked the question. I will buy a spacer.

As an aside, I found it impossible to replace the fuel pump from above (carbs removed of course), even though others say it can be done. I simply could not get at the LH bolt (the rear one). I tried for a long time and at one point thought I was in serious trouble because my hand got well and truly stuck. Managed to get it out and then gave up with hands that were very sore. Next day I jacked up the front, removed the starter and got at it that way. My concern now is that I will be able to fit the pump with the spacer, it's so tight for space.
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PostPost by: englishmaninwales » Mon Jan 23, 2017 1:53 pm

Yes, you can fit the pump from the underside with the spacer gasket. A bit fiddly, I recall.
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PostPost by: daverubberduck » Mon Jan 23, 2017 1:59 pm

Oops, embarrassing confession coming up. After my last post I got to thinking - when I was peeling off the remains of the old gasket I remember that the surface underneath was black. Didn't think anything of it then, but now I think that was a spacer already in place. So had another look and I think I already have the spacer there. Photo below is taken looking down between ports 1 and 2. This is good news, means I don't have to go through removing and refitting the pump. Still glad I asked the question though, it's good to know these things.
Dave
pic-of-spacer.jpg and
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PostPost by: pharriso » Mon Jan 23, 2017 2:08 pm

"I'd rather be lucky than good."

Lefty Gomez, NY Yankees
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PostPost by: daverubberduck » Mon Jan 23, 2017 3:49 pm

"You?ve got to be very careful if you don?t know where you are going, because you might not get there."

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PostPost by: 2cams70 » Wed Jan 25, 2017 12:00 am

Be careful with those glass bowl fuel pumps as they aren't all the same. The ones fitted to standard pushrod cortinas and early escorts look exactly the same and fit perfectly but have a different spring inside and hence run a different pressure than those intended for lotus engines.
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PostPost by: HAIRY » Wed Jan 25, 2017 10:17 am

Hello 2 cams, how do you identify the difference between a Elan glass bowl fuel pump and a non Elan fuel pump? I have recently purchased a replacement on eBay.......and now wonder if it will do the job or whether it can be up graded to do the job!!!!
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PostPost by: promotor » Wed Jan 25, 2017 11:15 am

HAIRY wrote:Hello 2 cams, how do you identify the difference between a Elan glass bowl fuel pump and a non Elan fuel pump? I have recently purchased a replacement on eBay.......and now wonder if it will do the job or whether it can be up graded to do the job!!!!


Make up a simple pressure gauge rig and test it's pumping capability! You'll need 1.25 - 2.5 psi for a T/C.

Or test the spring pressure - 3.25 - 3.5 lb.
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PostPost by: 2cams70 » Wed Jan 25, 2017 12:05 pm

I'm checking the Escort parts and workshop manuals and there's a bit of conflict:

From parts manual:
Standard and GT models fuel pump: 2737E 9350A (assembly), 2737E 9396A (spring only)
Twin Cam: 3020E 9350A (assembly), 3020E 9396A (spring only)

For those of you not familiar with Mk1 Escorts, standard models have 1100 or 1300cc crossflow motors with a Ford single venturi carburettor, GT models have a tuned 1300cc crossflow with a 2 barrel Weber carburettor. All these listings are for the glass bowl not the later sealed pump

From workshop manual:
Standard models fuel pressure: 1 to 2psi
GT models fuel pressure: 3.5 to 5psi
Twin cam models fuel pressure: 1.25 to 2.5psi

I think the standard models should in fact have the same pressure as the GT (3.5 to 5psi) as the later MkII manual lists it thus and these have the same single barrel Ford carburettor but with sealed pump (this shouldn't affect pressure rating however)

Spring loads for the 1.25 to 2.5psi pump are stated as 3.25 to 3.50 lb at 0.468" test length
For the 1 to 2psi pump same as above (see why I think there is an error in the manual)
For the 3.5 to 5psi pump, 10 to 12.75 lb at 0.641" test length
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PostPost by: promotor » Wed Jan 25, 2017 12:20 pm

If you find your pump is supplying too high a pressure then you can either swap the spring (if you have other pumps to offer some parts) or maybe fit a fuel pump filter/pressure regulator combination (the filter part of it isn't a bad thing to have anyway even if you don't end up needing the pressure regulator part).

Don't forget to make sure the pump is suitable for modern Ethanol mixed fuels as new old stock diaphragms are not usually suitable.
Last edited by promotor on Wed Jan 25, 2017 12:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: HAIRY » Wed Jan 25, 2017 12:22 pm

Very detailed and helpful. Thank you. One more question, is it possible to change the spring and do you know of a supplier?
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