S2 Door Latch Adjustment

[CG901]

My driver's side door rattles. If the strike plate would move in only 1/4", the door would be perfectly flush to the body, and it wouldn't rattle, BUT, the strike plate is already adjusted IN as far as it will go. The door gaskets are in good condition and the door seals perfectly.

Does anybody know best way to modify the strike plate to allow an additional 1/4" inward adjustment? (see second photo)
Also, is there any adjustment in the door latch mechanism itself? (see first photo).
The WSM isn't clear on this for an S2.

Thanks for any suggestions.

[Quart Meg Miles]

The position of the strike plate is constrained by the over-size holes in the bodywork which can be modified further. But you must not drop the tapped plate behind the bodywork unless you are happy to remove, perhaps partially, the door surround trim. So that's your problem, how to modify the holes without losing the plate.

The final constraint is the strike plate hitting the body moulding flange and it doesn't look as though you have a quarter inch there it might be enough. I don't believe the door mechanism can be moved but someone may correct me.

Personally I would add rubber to stop the rattle. Door alignment was always somewhat vague and I have read that it can never be perfect because the moulds were warped.

[CG901]

Meg - thanks for those suggestions. I believe I have a quarter inch, unless there is some interference under the body shell. I am wondering if by removing only the inner most striker plate screw, then moving the plate out as far as possible, would I expose enough of the inner side hole to enlarge it inwards? I can't find photos yet of an S1/2 expose in this area to know.

[mazlot]

Best shot I have

[Quart Meg Miles]

I'm concerned that your door seems not to be flush already. My strike plate seems to be where yours is and my door is well shut, as the photos show. The tightness of the door is determined by the rubbers as the door mechanism is attached to metal so can't be moved (I'd forgotten) and I don't understand why our body shells seem to differ by ?".

The holes in the body aren't very big you wouldn't get access for enlarging by removing just one screw, they unscrew after about ?". I think you have to live with how far out your door is sticking and compromise by adding more rubber.

[CG901]

Door correctly aligned, fully flush and closed, but not engaged by striker plate

I am sure this can be better explained by the variability in the rubber gasket and striker plate hole position.
When my door is in perfect alignment, it needs another 1/4" inward on the striker plate to achieve this and a tight close to the door. I illustrate with two photos,