Fiberglass *MAT* and Epoxy

[Terry Posma]

Most of the polyester you buy here in the hardware store and the boat shops has a wax content. You have to buy in larger quantities to get laminating resin.

I think I was warning that if you are making repairs over older stuff, it does not matter what it was, make sure the older surface is rid of any wax and well keyed.

[JonnyPlus2]

I've sanded down the places that are being repaired with 80 grit and scrubbed them down with a stiffish brush soaked in acetone. Will that get rid of the wax?

[Bud English]

Ah, almost as good as the oil vs. grease, trunnion debate! I espoused my opinion to stick to polyester resin for repairs a few years back and then crawled back under my rock after the responses.

I too was able to peel off some previous polyester repairs. They were the ones that had only been tapered back on one side of the break and a patch applied or applied over paint or undercoating. I have full confidence in properly prepared poly resin repairs. I, too, stick to non woven glass for body repairs.

I love West Systems epoxy for scratch building parts and used it for the barrier coating over the entire car when prepping for my upcoming paint job. It sands nice, doesn't shrink, and the dust doesn't itch unless you get into the glass. JMHO

[bigvalvehead]

I use polyester resin and CSM or in some cases a stiched diagonal strip for joining panels such as the top section of bodyshell to the floor section.

Also pic of an Elise S1 front clam made by my son and I yesterday. 6Kg in weight!!

Dave