'glass hole [do not say that quickly too many times....]

[S2Jay]

Hello to All,
Looking for some guidance from those experienced with minor fiberglass repair.

The pics below [hopefully] show a hole that was created, intentionally or not, in the bottom of the front nose at some point in the first 18 years of the life of this S2 b4 I found it.

Questions that concern me are....

Given a limited experience with smaller repairs of fiberglass cracks & holes, should I just leave this to a professional shop when the other body work is to be done, or should I consider doing it myself?

If I try to work this, then how best to proceed?
Would I fill the hole "as-is", or cut out a larger area, to include the adjoining cracks?
Would I just cut a piece of mat to fit the hole, or should the hole be first filled with a solid piece of something like thin, flexible plastic?
Thanks for any suggestions or comments.
Jay
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[LaikaTheDog]

On the inside surface grind the surface around the hole. Get back to some fibre matting at least 2 inches around the hole. Tape some card board overy the hole on the outside. Then lay in some wet fibre mesh to bridge the gap. Then add a couple more layers of mesh slightly smaller than the one before.
Let it get hard for 24 hours.

Remove the cardboard you used as a former and now work the outside. Grind it back just the same. Because of gravity you need to keep an eye on your wet mesh before it goes hard. Keep it pressed up. The gel will do this for you, but it will try and slump so just keep pressing it in ocassionally. Repeat until your finished work is just about right. Sand and use a bit of p45 filler to make a perfect smooth surface on the outside.

[jimj]

It looks to me as if someone pulled an axle stand from under the chassis cross member then lowered the jack without making sure the axle stand was clear. What sort of person might have done something like that? Someone like me, shamefully.
Jim

[Foxie]

. "Tape some card board overy the hole on the outside."

If you cover the cardboard with some plastic film (plastic bag) It will peel off the repair very easily

[nmauduit]

It's non structural, non visible, easy to access: perfect for practicing...

There is a chapter on bodywork in the Lotus manual which covers the basics.

Making a taper for better bonding and quasi invisible transition may be a bit time consuming, depending on the tools you may have... if you use power tools, mask off for the dust that goes everywhere (including yourself, it's rather itchy).

Weigthing accurately the polyester is key for good quality result, I use a scale accurate to 0.1g and always mix at least 100g (1.5% catalyst for moderate temperature).

The only risk is getting addicted...

DIY

[S2Jay]

Great advice from everyone, Many Thanks to All!

Jim, much appreciate the "confessional", now I finally know how this aperture was created. So your accident has a value years later to answer a question I have had for years.

"LaikaTheDog", Thanks much for the detailed description, that is a real big help. Although it is a bit of work, it seems to be simple enough that I can reasonably attempt it, save some of the professional body work, and as has been mentioned in other threads, have the reward of the accomplishment!
Jay
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[mikealdren]

A couple of tips. Firstly be Very Careful 'grinding' fibreglass, wear a mask as a you don't want the fibres in your lungs or eyes. I would do it out of doors as the fibres get everywhere.

Also, rather than cardboard, I use a sheet of smooth plastic (that the resin peels off) to get a good surface finish.

[Bud English]

Chances are good that your first attempt, if you faithfully follow the advice given, will match or surpass the results of the average "professional" out there. As my grand kids put it, "Jus' saying"!

I wouldn't call doing fiberglass fun, but it is pretty straight forward and you'll be smiling (and itching) that you did it yourself.

[reb53]

I've done a few similar ones and found the ideal material to use as a backer was some offcuts of the sort of vinyl that goes on floors.
If I didn't have any I'd buy one tile from the local DIY shop.
Make sure it's a smooth, not textured surface, and wax it.
Cut to a suitable size, zap it with a heat gun to make it nice and pliable, then duct tape it in place.

[Quart Meg Miles]

Buy a copy of the Fibreglass repairs by Miles Wilkins (published by Octopus I believe); it is definitive.

Degrease then cut into all those cracks first. The important thing is to remove all cracks which might re-propagate after the repair. They usually take six months to show themselves though they will be out of sight in your case.

[reb53]

Buy a copy of the Fibreglass repairs by Miles Wilkins (published by Octopus I believe); it is definitive.

Totally agree !
Followed his advice when I took out hundreds of cracks in my car almost 30 years ago.
Have yet to have even one reappear.

Ralph.

[Bigbaldybloke]

Just a couple of things, wear disposable gloves - buy a box of them before you start and some cheap brushes for the resin. No point trying to clean them, just chuck them! Don't mix the resin in plastic tubs because it attacks most of them, old jam jars or small baked bean tins are good! Gaffer tape is good to hold your plastic or cardboard cover over the hole while you are putting the first layers in from above. Cover your garage floor as you are bound to get drips of resin on it and it sticks like sh*t to a blanket!
Have a nice day!

[S2Jay]

More great tips! Thanks to everyone for the valuable tips & encouragement, "Foxie", "nmauduit", "mikealdren", "Bud English", "reb53", "Quart Meg Miles" & "Bigbaldybloke".

I have used the cheap dust masks, but I am upgrading to the more effective respirator type, and I do have some smooth tile material I can use I can use.

I was concerned about the cracks extending out from the hole, so I will attend them first. I did not know that Mr. Wilkins has a book on Fibreglass repairs, Thanks for that info! I do have his engine book.

Update:
I had planned to tackle this job last week, however, an unexpected/unplanned tour of the local O.R. has put a temporary hold on that plan. I am back home, but limited in the amount of physical work I can do for the next few weeks. I need to delay any work under the car until the incisions heal & the stomach muscles allow the type of movement needed [twisting, lifting , etc]. I expect to be able to work on other small parts & projects until then.

Again, I cannot thank everyone enough for the detailed descriptions & tips on working this small repair. It this sort of "inside" information that makes trying a new task seem less challenging.
I was hoping to have the car finished up this summer, but this latest delay may push that back again. I will likely start a new thread [or continue this one?] about this ongoing project.
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