Repair or Replace Chassis?

PostPost by: robbie0023 » Sun Jul 11, 2010 5:31 am

The body is now off my Plus 2. My mechanic says he can repair it and make it straight for around $1500. He wanted to give me the option of replacing the chassis if I wanted to but I just don't see how without robbing a bank. I know that I can buy a replacement chassis but at what cost? Does any one have an extra straight chassis at a reasonable price?
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PostPost by: Jason1 » Sun Jul 11, 2010 6:31 pm

http://www.spydercars.co.uk/spyder_chas ... r_bars.htm

Here are the Spyder prices, you would need to add shipping cost.
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PostPost by: martinbrowning » Mon Jul 12, 2010 9:25 am

Robbie,

You haven't mentioned what happened to the existing chassis- accident damage maybe? My thought would be - NEW chassis. Don't mess about with trying to straighten the existing one and ,in any case, if it is the original then it is 30-35 years old so other problems may be looming.

I appreciate that it seems expensive but with a new chassis you have the peace of mind that it is new and,at the moment with body off you have a perfect opportunity to change it.It is a vital component of the car - don't mess about.

Kind regards

Martin B
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PostPost by: Gray » Mon Jul 12, 2010 4:36 pm

Hi

I have straightened turrets in the distant past when chassis were not available, but generally not a good idea unless the chassis is very sound and has little damage.

Regards Gray
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PostPost by: robbie0023 » Tue Jul 13, 2010 5:32 am

Thank you all so much for your thoughtful advice. I will try to replace the chassis. So far I can't find one in the USA. I have emailed the UK but have not heard back. I'll let you know what I find but if anyone knows of one in this country I would like to hear from you.

Cheers, Robbie
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PostPost by: CBUEB1771 » Tue Jul 13, 2010 12:28 pm

robbie0023 wrote:So far I can't find one in the USA. I have emailed the UK but have not heard back.


Have you decided on Lotus v. Spyder? Miles Wilkins supplies original specification chassis through his business, Fiberglass Services. Unfortunately his website seems to be down. Spyder does not have a US dealer but will ship directly to you. I have found Spyder to be more responsive to phone calls than email.
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PostPost by: CBUEB1771 » Tue Jul 13, 2010 12:42 pm

CBUEB1771 wrote:Miles Wilkins supplies original specification chassis through his business, Fiberglass Services. Unfortunately his website seems to be down.


Oops, Fiberglass Services wewbsite is still up, he just changed the URL since I first bookmarked it:

http://fibreglassservices.com/
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PostPost by: Craig Elliott » Sat Feb 05, 2011 8:22 am

Not sure I understand the post above - seems to link to a general auto advertising website that doesn't appear to have any info on Lotus' whatsoever...

Anyway, my vote would go with getting a new chassis if you can.

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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sat Feb 05, 2011 8:29 am

Robbie,
just phone Mikes Wilkins and fit an original galvanised Lotus chassis, you know it makes sense. if you fit a spyder chassis it will not be original.
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PostPost by: JJDraper » Sat Feb 05, 2011 9:40 am

A straight chassis is pretty essential for any Lotus; a new chassis is pretty essential for a car that has covered substantial mileage because of fatigue. Pretty much all the suspension mounting points suffer eventually, even Spyder ones. A new Lotus chassis would be the choice for originality, but there are issues with access for maintenance in the future, especially the diff & propshaft. Costs between an original and an alternative are pretty marginal, the main cost being the labor cost of changing the chassis in the first place - something you are doing anyway. As your chassis needs $1500 spent on it, offset that against a new chassis. It would be a pity to repair one area, only for new cracks to appear after the car has been back on the road for a while. Go without beer, ciggies, or some other personal vice for a while!

I guess it depends on how long you intend keeping the finished car - long term & high miles, new chassis: short term & few miles, repair.

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PostPost by: andyelan » Sat Feb 05, 2011 6:20 pm

Hi Everyone

In my opinion I would say "yes" it is perfectly possible to repair a Elan chassis, however, there's no way I can see this as being cost effective.

I repaired (rebuilt) the chassis for my Europa and I believe I made a good job of it, however, it took hours and hours of work. Had I costed up all the time I spent or had I had to pay someone else to do the job at normally hourly rates, then there's no way it would worked out cheaper than buying a new chassis (of course, I live in the UK. In other parts of the world maybe other things, such as shipping cost, might be much more of a issue). The bottom line is though, I won't do it again.

Apart from anything else, a big advantage of a new chassis is that it can be laid alongside the old one and parts transferd one by one, that makes it so much easier to see how everything fits together. Repairing the old one requires it to be stripped of every last nut and bolt, then put back together from all the hundred of bit all laying on the floor and in boxes (which hopefully have all been correctlyl labled up)

Just my thoughts anyway
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PostPost by: syrius » Tue Feb 08, 2011 9:02 pm

Hi

I think its not a good way to repair an old chassis .
Its very difficult to make a reliable chassis with a chassis with more than 30 years old .

The sypder is more rigid than the original Lotus galvanised chassis .
I tested my car with each one, and I prefer the Syder. Its more precis and stiffer.
Its also more easy to make maintenance on propshaft .
But ok, its not original ...

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PostPost by: RobinElan » Tue Feb 08, 2011 9:51 pm

I had my chassis repaired thinking that all was now ok.
Only to have a rear suspension turret bend and hit the upper body work!
This was due to servere fatigue and corrosion
Don't do it, replace it although expensive it will prove worth while. :)
While you`re at it have you checked the sills.
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PostPost by: theelanman » Wed Feb 09, 2011 12:47 am

I would say it depends on what needs doing to your original......
I suppose Ive listened to too many insurance companies...
if the cost of repair is greater than say 60%~75% of the cost of new then go for the new...
if the chassis is sound but with say 10%~20% welding then ditch it.....

an old addidge......if youre going to do it ...then do it propperly

at the end of the day it would be your call but new would always be better.....
it would also depend on the original condition....but if you have a screw driver and a fair heart then give what youve got a good 'poke' and see how many holes you find...just for your own peace of mind
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PostPost by: syrius » Wed Feb 09, 2011 7:56 am

Hi

Its not easy to repair this type of dammage ...

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