Lotus Elan

Camber geometry question

PostPost by: holywood3645 » Fri Sep 23, 2016 4:31 am

If I wanted to reduce my camber by 1 Deg' from vertical. How much would I need to move the holes on the top control arms?

James
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PostPost by: toomspj » Fri Sep 23, 2016 8:18 pm

about 5mm

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PostPost by: gus » Fri Sep 23, 2016 10:06 pm

why?
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PostPost by: holywood3645 » Fri Sep 23, 2016 10:13 pm

Why what!
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PostPost by: Foxie » Sat Sep 24, 2016 12:21 am

holywood3645 wrote:If I wanted to reduce my camber by 1 Deg' from vertical. How much would I need to move the holes on the top control arms?

James


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PostPost by: gus » Sun Sep 25, 2016 12:41 pm

A small amount of negative camber is generally regarded as 'good'
If there is significant unintended negative camber odds are the chassis is failing.
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PostPost by: elanfan1 » Sun Sep 25, 2016 1:27 pm

gus wrote:A small amount of negative camber is generally regarded as 'good'
If there is significant unintended negative camber odds are the chassis is failing.


Or wasn't straight/true in the first place. A respected restorer I know puts a jig on the front of the chassis through his shop and only a few are straight - even the new ones. It does make me wonder about the lengths folks go to with adjusting this and that when the chassis isn't straight to start with.
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PostPost by: holywood3645 » Mon Sep 26, 2016 4:54 pm

All taken care of now (Thanks Paul)

Now trying to optimize ride height.
\
James
Last edited by holywood3645 on Tue Sep 27, 2016 6:50 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: englishmaninwales » Mon Sep 26, 2016 6:02 pm

elanfan1 wrote:
gus wrote:A small amount of negative camber is generally regarded as 'good'
If there is significant unintended negative camber odds are the chassis is failing.


Or wasn't straight/true in the first place. A respected restorer I know puts a jig on the front of the chassis through his shop and only a few are straight - even the new ones. It does make me wonder about the lengths folks go to with adjusting this and that when the chassis isn't straight to start with.


Well, suppose the chassis is not perfectly true. If the parameters are adjustable ( eg as are on a Caterham 7) you can still measure the camber, toe, rake, ride height and corner weights and adjust to give acceptable results. Providing it isn't too bent :lol:
Going to a lot of effort getting close makes a big difference if you've just lost on a Hillclimb by 1/00th of a second because you have some understeer or the front near side locks under braking.
Obviously it's not really necessary to adjust to the nth degree for the road, though.
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PostPost by: holywood3645 » Mon Sep 26, 2016 7:59 pm

I was a little positive on one side, and sometimes felt a little squirrely. I think this it happened when I had the chassis powder coated. Dialed it out now and it feels so much better, and much more a pleasure to drive. Both side now 1/4 to 1/2 Deg negative. Now trying to get it better with ride height adjustment, may even but some expensive Michelins.
These cars just feel soooo good on the road, Its a shame most people will never experience it.

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PostPost by: patrics » Tue Sep 27, 2016 4:21 pm

Hi James,
Reading your original post it implies or at least I read it that way that you want more positive camber but I guess that's not the case.
If you slot the top arms like Paul said you can get 1 deg or so - so worth while, but any more than that then the top arms starts to foul the wheel on lock

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PostPost by: au-yt » Tue Oct 04, 2016 7:49 am

Some one posted this link on another form and it is really worth a play to see what else you may need to adjust
www.vsusp.com
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PostPost by: holywood3645 » Tue Oct 04, 2016 11:30 pm

au-yt
Thanks for the link, now I need to figure how to use the tool.
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