Removal of a fuel pump on Elan S2 LHD

[loueelotus]

Hi,
I just finished winter work on my S2 and took it for a run. It ran beautifully with all the tightening and adjustments made.Drive it into my garage and started to smell petrol so looking around found by elimination the diaphragm in fuel pump damaged looks like.

Would there be anyone out there who could give me advise on the best way to remove AC glass fuel pump (and install another one of the same, on my S2. I just removed the starter and the SPACE TO WORK IS SO TINY.... What spanners or tools can be used from the bottom or if possible the top .. or any other way to get it out and replace. The car is original so i want to keep it that way... any help would be much appreciated.


Regards,
Lou

[englishmaninwales]

I like to give myself as enough room as possible as the space is limited.
Put the car up on axle stands.
Remove the starter motor.
Remove the Webbers. (Although it may be possible to do it without, I do this it as it gives extra space and I'm not time pressured )
Working from above and below you will find enough space to remove the fuel line fixings and then the two fuel pump fixings using a 1/4" drive wrench with a slim 1/2 " AF socket. I recall it helps access to the fixings if you remove the pump glass bowl (don't forget it's full of fuel.) Check the leak was not from the fuel in/out - did you assemble with compression joint olives or O rings?
Refixing, ensure you use a gasket with a heat insulator and make sure the pump lever arm is fitted correctly on top of the cam lobe.
Good luck!
Malcolm.

[alan.barker]

I don't know on a s2 but on a sprint there is a rubber bung in the tunnel. It should be opposite the rear screw holding the pump to the block. Maybe you can use an extension and 1/4" drive to undo screw.
Before you fit the replacement pump check the flatness of the pump flange.
You may have to customise a spanner to help.
Before you put replacement pump in place turn engine over with spanner on crankshaft bolt to position cam lobe for fuel pump in lowest position. This way you have less pressure on pump lever to help start the pump fixing screws. Keep pump horizontal so lever is positioned on top pump cam lobe.
Good luck and try to stay zen
Alan

[nmauduit]

I always hate to remove carbs (among other parts - esp. the starter which is really tight on my car, a modern version that requires a specific mounting sequence with specific screws, one with an Allen key etc) when I don't have to, so to remove the fuel pump from a weber head engine I usually remove the air filter hose, the distributor cap to push it outward, and work my way from the top through the tunnel that was created. It takes suitable tools (articulated socket wrench) that I locate from the top peering though the manifold web, a magnet-on-a-snake for holding the screws when reassembling (undo the fuel line before undoing the 2 holding hex screws).

[loueelotus]

Thank you all for your input .. I listened to you guys and found that it was not to bad.. There was fuel coming out of one of the holes at the bottom underneath part of the pump (below the diaphragm).. I removed the bolts and the fuel/out hose. But the fuel/in will not budge (compression joint olives).. You guys have any secrets to remove the Nylon/Plastic in pipe without damage..

Thanks again,

Lou

[alan.barker]

I prefer to loosen the inlet from tank before removing screws holding pump to block.
Maybe you have a brake pipe spanner that will fit
Alan

[nmauduit]

Thank you all for your input .. I listened to you guys and found that it was not to bad.. There was fuel coming out of one of the holes at the bottom underneath part of the pump (below the diaphragm).. I removed the bolts and the fuel/out hose. But the fuel/in will not budge (compression joint olives).. You guys have any secrets to remove the Nylon/Plastic in pipe without damage..

Thanks again,

Lou

If the olive has been overtightened it may have marked in the nylon and be permanently deformed and tight... you may try to spray a bit of lubricant, otherwise it's just like plumbing olives, one should be able just to pull the nylon hose away after the fitting has been undone, then back on.

You may be able to change the diaphragm without removing the inlet if the line is free enough as Alan suggest, make sure you plug and strongly attach (duct tape?) a small hose or electrical wire of sort at the tank end so that you can pull the nylon line back the way it was, sounds a bit hazardous though as I'm not sure how much play you have at the P-clips, then not much access with the body on... If the inlet is stuck that would push toward a bottom access job.

[loueelotus]

Thanks again, but I cannot get to remove the Nylon line with lubrication and trying to pull it out, but there is no space to pull on it on the block...So what if I remove the fuel pump from the block and drop it below then have a better grip on things or cut the line if I must. Here is a pic on the matter with the union pulled off to the side

[alan.barker]

Like you say the only way is to drop it below then have another go with the grips.
I think the nylon has been effected by the modern fuel and swollen in the location hole .
Maybe cut through the nylon pipe close to the pump as possible. Then with some luck you will have enough free length to remake joint with a new olive
Alan

[loueelotus]

Thank you Alan. I got it off with no damage or cutting just lower it and twisted and pulled a few times and voil?. Now it will be a tricky thing to get he new on..

Regards to All,
Lou

[richardcox_lotus]

Sorry if I missed this earlier in the thread but isn't the recommendation to loosen the engine mounting - supporting the engine with a jack on the sump - to allow it to be swung away and giving more room ?

HTH

Regards
Richard

[loueelotus]

Hi Richard,
Yes is but. I was looking for a quick fix and after looking and getting help on the matter it worked without removal. But now I have to see if it will go in as easily this way.. I even removed the sump twice in the past with just lifting the engine up as high as possible on my S2 and managed only one small leak from the rear rope gasket upon runing it. (As usual)

Thanks again for all your help,
Lou

[loueelotus]

Hi all,

Car is done and on the road again.. Thanks again for all your help and until the next issue (which I hope is not to soon).

Ciao,
Lou

[alan.barker]

Well done that man, just get out and drive it with a big smile on your face
Alan