There were requests for pictures...

PostPost by: steve lyle » Sun Aug 02, 2015 12:53 am

There were requests for pictures of my new toy.

Here ya go: https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=2 ... lder%2cJPG

This week was spent installing the DBE alternator kit and steering column universal joint. Both are working fine - the alternator puts out 12.9v @ idle, 13.9 or so at speed. Steering is tight, direct, and light, just as I had hoped.

But plenty of other things to take care of. No horn, still. And no lights, I've discovered. The wiring on this thing is a rats nest, with lots of relays added hither and yon, non-std wiring colors, non-functioning switches. I'm thinking I'm going to need to pull the dash to sort it out. And it's not really an option, since the headlight switch is just a decoration - no "click" either way, it's as if there's no mechanism on the other side. And I assume the dash has to get pulled to replace it. How big a deal is that?

The horn was interesting. While I had the column out I took the horn button on the column apart, and adjusted it so that there was actual movement of the horn push, and that the circuit was open and closed at the appropriate times. Then I put the wheel back on and the circuit was always closed - it turned out that the base of the steering wheel was contacting the slip ring. So I made an insulating washer and put that on, problem solved. Until I had the column installed and the purple/black wires connected. And still no horn. So I went to the horns and found out why - the wires to them were not only not hooked up, they were cut.

These must not be the original horns, because they have one wiring contact, and ground through the mount. So, not to be deterred, I made an insulated mount out of paint stirring stick. But still no joy - the horn kinda squeaks - I guess my current wiring just isn't supplying enough amps. The horn is plenty loud when I tested it with short leads directly to the battery.

This wiring sorting is going to be an adventure.
Steve Lyle
1972 Elan Sprint 0248k @ https://www.mgexp.com/registry/1972-Lot ... 48K.30245/
1972 MGB Roadster @ https://www.mgexp.com/registry/1972-MG- ... 842G.4498/
2007 BMW 335i Coupe
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PostPost by: dgym » Sun Aug 02, 2015 3:43 am

Hi Steve,
the headlight switch doesn't really "click", it's more of a slidey feeling,
Its re directing vacuum through different rubber tubes rather than connecting two contacts.
so..maybe it's ok?
if you remove the plastic trim above the driver sides' knees you will be able to get at the switch easily anyway if there is a problem.
-jim
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1967 S3 Coupe (left the factory in 66)
original rego PPC 8E
original owner B.M. Wetherill ..are you out there?
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PostPost by: steve lyle » Sun Aug 02, 2015 4:41 am

Jim,

It looks like I've got 2 headlight switches - a vacuum switch to raise/lower the lights, and a separate electrical switch inboard of it that is at least part of my problem. Things are pretty tight in that area, not sure if I can get at the back side of the electrical switch without removing the dash.

Steve
Steve Lyle
1972 Elan Sprint 0248k @ https://www.mgexp.com/registry/1972-Lot ... 48K.30245/
1972 MGB Roadster @ https://www.mgexp.com/registry/1972-MG- ... 842G.4498/
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PostPost by: dgym » Sun Aug 02, 2015 5:03 am

the ashtray is removable also, so you'll have access from the side and above.

here is an image of the side access, credit to gjz30075. and note this is a different switch to yours.
http://images.lotuselan.net/lel/28932/0/DSC03933.JPG

and anyway the nuts that hold the dash in are more difficult to access than the switch itself!

unless you actually want to take the dash out?
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original rego PPC 8E
original owner B.M. Wetherill ..are you out there?
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Sun Aug 02, 2015 8:59 am

Thanks dgym! That's my Corvette switch conversion. Steve, your switch should look like the top one, and
it may or may not have a set of microswitches attached. dgym was also pointing out that access is very
easy to that switch.
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PostPost by: elanfan1 » Sun Aug 02, 2015 12:07 pm

Do your lights come on if you manually pull up the drivers side (US) headlamp pod - you do not need to have the dashboard switch turned on. The lights should operate from a micros witch on the back of the pod or certainly UK Sprints do.
At least this will let you know if the lights themselves are working, then you need to work back through your wiring. To reiterate the vacuum switch should be relatively easily accessed. There are various threads here about disassembly and repair.
Steve

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PostPost by: RichardHawkins » Mon Aug 03, 2015 9:40 am

Steve,

When I first started restoring my car, I was horrified at the condition of the wiring behind the dash. You call it a "rats nest" and I agree, but my wiring had also been over heated. Some insulation was melted and some was charred. The more I looked the more worried I became. I decided to rewire the complete vehicle. They had a reputation for catching fire when they were new. Whether this was a design fault or owner modification I dont know, but thought a rewire would be a good thing to do.

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