+2S 130 Interior Map Light Question

[NedK]

Don't despair on the clocks. If it's a Smiths electromechanical you can either buy a cool little replacement PCB to make it work again from clocks4classics.
Or other companies will gut it and replace the innards with a quartz movement.
I'm going the first route.
Ned

[Classic-BSC]

Just a quick update regarding the Map Light.

I guess there might be a lot of people out there who like me, haven't
seen the correct Interior Parts for the +2S 130 Map Light before.

I was lucky enough to be given the Interior Parts from somebody I met
at Castle Combe this Year.

It never occurred to me the parts (or should I say Part) for the interior were
so simple. If I had known this, I would have made my Repair in a much simpler
way.

I think it is fair to say, if you are missing the interior part of your Map Light, just
find yourself some Steel Rod 0.9mm in Diameter and wind yourself a Spring!
That's all it is, just a single large tapering Spring.
Who would have Guessed!

A picture speaks a Thousand Words as they say, so here are a few Photo's that
should explain all.
Starting Diameter of the spring is 19mm, which Tapers off to 11mm in order that the Bulb
can screw into the narrow end.

The Spring needs to be 2 or 3 cm longer than the Lamp housing, so that when it is compressed
with the Lens screwed in, the Spring bends and makes contact with the Metal housing (Negative)
and provides Tension to push the bulb against the positive terminal at the bottom.

Obviously, the interior of the housing would need to be clean and free of rust for a good electrical
contact.

Hope this is useful to somebody.



Ian

[Classic-BSC]

I should just add that a bit of Trial and Error might be needed to
get the Spring Length just right.
You need enough Flex in the Spring to make electrical Contact
onto the Body Housing, but not so much to put undue strain on the
Plastic Lens. The Plastic is quite weak with age now.



Ian