S3 boot trunk wiring harness route
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When I pulled my tank, I found some of the harness, where it exited from under the tank, scraped through to the bare wires. Although the harness seems to want to be routed on 'the lower level', vs above the tank, the
tank won't fit because it is very tight in the lower rh corner and simply won't fit with the harness there (as
pictured).
I can move the harness rearward to be routed under the tank but then the tank sits on the harness where
it goes over the body rib. I can probably raise the tank a bit to avoid this. All above the tank seems 'messy'.
So, what is the route the harness should take?
tank won't fit because it is very tight in the lower rh corner and simply won't fit with the harness there (as
pictured).
I can move the harness rearward to be routed under the tank but then the tank sits on the harness where
it goes over the body rib. I can probably raise the tank a bit to avoid this. All above the tank seems 'messy'.
So, what is the route the harness should take?
Greg Z
45/0243K Sprint
45/7286 S3 SE DHC
45/0243K Sprint
45/7286 S3 SE DHC
-
gjz30075 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 12 Sep 2003
Greg,
The wiring lays on the flat panel in front of the tank, A pair of wires drop down to the tank sending unit out of the loom. The rest of the loom follows up the filler neck and another pair go into a grommet in the boot lid for the license lamps on the back edge. You should find a hole for a "P" clip in the channel on the right edge of the boot opening. The loom continues and into the brackets for attaching the inner panel covering the rear lamps. The loom then feeds into the tail/stop lamps. There is no need for the loom to go down under the tank.
If you have the latest issue of Classic Motorsport, where they are restoring the Elan on a serial installments. The sidebar of the plaster mold was taken off my coupe. Please notice the 6 pieces of felt glued onto the "V" shaped molding in the boot. This was my way of keeping the fuel tank from rubbing on the V , thereby removing paint and causing the rusty tank syndrome. You too will want to do something like the felt cushion, but no wires should run under the tank.
Roger
The wiring lays on the flat panel in front of the tank, A pair of wires drop down to the tank sending unit out of the loom. The rest of the loom follows up the filler neck and another pair go into a grommet in the boot lid for the license lamps on the back edge. You should find a hole for a "P" clip in the channel on the right edge of the boot opening. The loom continues and into the brackets for attaching the inner panel covering the rear lamps. The loom then feeds into the tail/stop lamps. There is no need for the loom to go down under the tank.
If you have the latest issue of Classic Motorsport, where they are restoring the Elan on a serial installments. The sidebar of the plaster mold was taken off my coupe. Please notice the 6 pieces of felt glued onto the "V" shaped molding in the boot. This was my way of keeping the fuel tank from rubbing on the V , thereby removing paint and causing the rusty tank syndrome. You too will want to do something like the felt cushion, but no wires should run under the tank.
Roger
'67 Elan S3 SS DHC
'67 Elan FHC pre-airflow
'67 Elan S3 SE upgrade to 26R by Original owner
'58 Eleven S2 (ex-works)
'62 20/22 FJ (ex-Yamura)
'70 Elan +2S RHD
'61 20 FJ project
'76 Modus M1 F3
'67 Elan FHC pre-airflow
'67 Elan S3 SE upgrade to 26R by Original owner
'58 Eleven S2 (ex-works)
'62 20/22 FJ (ex-Yamura)
'70 Elan +2S RHD
'61 20 FJ project
'76 Modus M1 F3
- Elan45
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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