LINREAD Headlight Pod switch?

[Grizzly]

Hi all.

Does anyone know if the original S4 headlight pod switches are rebuild-able?

I've been having a intermittent problem with my headlights that i've tracked down to one of the Switches still providing enough continuity to trigger the relay when the circuit should be open.

I would just replace it but i seem to be struggling finding the same switch? plus it might be a simple fix and would be nice to keep the originals if at all possible (it appears the plunger is making contact with the body of the switch so maybe some fresh insulation is required??)

Failing that i will just fit a modern switch, but i thought i'd ask first.

[nmauduit]

I understand you refer to the escort mk1 mk2 Cortina type door switches, all metallic tubular kind, which can run for crazy money if NOS as buoyed by the Cortina purists crowd...

One can fiddle with them if not abused, they are very simple really: in cases the spring would not be enough not get them back into contact (lack of lubricant, bend, corroded ...). One need to shim them up carefully for proper and durable operation (to get enough but no excessive pressure on the spring when opened).

I believe a repro very close to the original has been offered a little while ago (see for instance http://www.ebay.com/itm/Door-hood-Boot- ... 1438.l2649 no affiliation, not tried by myself yet).

[Grizzly]

All fixed

Seems they are very easy to repair....... what had happened to mine was the internal spring had corroded and the last two or three loops had separated then managed to find their way through the bottom of the switch.

So all i did was remove the contact on the bottom of the plunger, under that was a white plastic insulator/stop, carefully remove that and the plunger pulls out the top.... In my case i replaced the spring and gave it a good clean up / assembled (glue the white stop/insulator back into position) and were all good

One other thing i noticed was the contact that goes over the white plastic bit on the bottom of the plunger seemed quite loose on mine even after tightening (if i pulled the plunger out against the stop i could knock it off enough so it made bad contact) so thats glued into position too now

BTW, i have a pair of those Ebay switches and even though they seem a decent idea the contact nut on the back is very easy to strip the treads off if you need the terminal to stay in one position as it tightens onto Plastic.

[nmauduit]

Now that you mention it, I eventually remembered that the part I had seen and that had sparked my interest was actually offered by Ray https://www.rdent.com/ , part # 36M6266R ($15/ea.) , closer to original if a bit more expensive, in any case less that the original bits I went out of my way to source when I restored my car... no affiliation, not tried it yet either.