clutch plate stuck?????? any ideas chaps?

[tvacc]

Its no more torque than doing a standing start. If the donuts cannot take that, you should replace them anyways.

[el-saturn]

.....went to my other workshop and, much to my surprise, found a brand new 5/8 mastercylinder and figured: johnson, why don't you invest another hour and see if maybe the restored cylinder is the issue! yes it was: used a "new" repair kit, got some pressure, BUT not quite enough. i filled a container with some dot4 and put the beginning in that bath, filled the cylinder and somehow kept the system "airless"! after some pumping and starting of the motor in various gears (a hella starter instead of the lucas!!!: german quality!!) all of a sudden the clutch plate was released!! 300? and 10hrs saved!! sandy ------------- much like in england today: SNOW and cold!

[tvacc]

That's great. Good to hear that. You should really only use Castrol brake fluid. In my 45 years of experience any other brand just dissolves the Girling seals.

[CBUEB1771]

system bleeded, at least 3 inches pedal travel (to the floor) under decent/regular pressure - and only 1/2 inch where our slave is!

I realize the real issue is that your friction plate is stuck to the flywheel. However the required force multiplication required to operate the clutch tells us that the travel at the pedal will be be significantly greater than the travel at the clutch slave cylinder when everything is working perfectly. Just the ratio of diameters of the master and slave cylinders tells us that the slave will travel half the distance that the master travels. Clutch pedal ratio gives us another healthy multiplier. A half inch of stroke at the slave cylinder should be enough for proper clutch actuation. I have always had the friction plate sticking to the flywheel if I have not driven my +2 for more than six months. I start it rolling down a convenient hill at the end of my drive and then beat the piss out of the clutch by getting on and off the throttle with the clutch pedal fully depressed. It frees fairly quickly with abusive treatment.

[Chancer]

Yeah abusive treatment, right on!

Make it know who is the boss

[Bigbaldybloke]

Glad you got yours free, mine has been sat for some years so I?m expecting problems. Last time I left it unused for an extended period, I tried most of the cures suggested above apart from dropping it off a jack whilst running, and they all failed and I ended up removing the engine and chiselling the clutch plate off the flywheel!

[AussieJohn]

I drilled a 1/2" hole in the bottom of the bellhousing in line with the back of flywheel/clutchplate. I jam the clutch pedal down with a piece of wood and then just flick the driven plate with a 1/4" wood chisel through the hole. It works every time; you may have to rotate the engine slightly to get to the gaps on the pressure plate between the bolt area. This method is easy and no shocks through anything other than the owner's back!!!

[john.p.clegg]

Certainly beats removing the engine...

John

[el-saturn]

great idea john: next time i'll have to do likewise: i'll get a shiney brass "CORK" ready. the oh so important originality loss is maybe 0,0001% PLUS and only visible to the feller you drove over!! sandy

[billwill]

I drilled a 1/2" hole in the bottom of the bellhousing in line with the back of flywheel/clutchplate. I jam the clutch pedal down with a piece of wood and then just flick the driven plate with a 1/4" wood chisel through the hole. It works every time; you may have to rotate the engine slightly to get to the gaps on the pressure plate between the bolt area. This method is easy and no shocks through anything other than the owner's back!!!

I have done a similar action in the past when my clutch stuck on.