Difficulty selecting 3rd (5 speed box)

[vincereynard]

On the few occasions Toad progressed under its own power, it went surprisingly well considering.

One problem was difficulty in getting 3rd. It would just baulk solidly and often take 2 /3 stabs to slot home.

Having the box on the bench and the top off the cause has become clear. Trying to select 3rd also gets movement from 1/2 selector. With the gearlever against crossgate plunger assembly the single selector rod connected to the lever does not quite swing far enough to completely clear 1/2. I lossened the 2 bolts holding plunger one complete turn and selection improved markedly. Another turn and it was better still. Packing the body by 1 mm should work well.

Incidentally packing selector link pin (C fig 37 Page 43) also by 1 mm lines the 1/2 selector up better as well. This is mentioned in the article about rebuilding the 5 speed but I did not fully understand until now!

How much front / back float should the input shaft have? I have tried fitting the front on without any gasket with the effect that the bearing and ring moved further into the box. It still has a little movement.

Vince

[mbell]

Interesting, so the spring loaded plunger for 5th is putting enough pressure on to catch the 1st gear selector as well?

I think I'd remove it from the box and give it a look. It's shaped so it can only protrude a certain amount and therefore shouldn't be interfering with 3rd gear selection. Could also fit a softer spring to make 5th easier to get.

For 1/2 section I fitted a conical spring rather than a washer. Fills the space like a washer when compressed but also centers the stick between 3/4 like most boxes.

[vincereynard]

I don't think its a fault of the plunger assembly. More like tiny bits of wear in the selector system add up to not quite allow enough movement to completely clear 1/2 selector. By putting the lever just resting against the plunger and pushing forward I was able to see the 1/2 moving.

A small amount of side force to start to compress the spring and it cleared. Loosening the plunger a bit also lessens tension on the spring and makes 5 / Rev. selection lighter.

I like your centering spring arrangement. I had wondered if it was a possibility. Where did you get the spring? The roll pin on mine is in a different place. I've no idea if this is significant.

I would like to replace the oil seals now I have the opportunity. This seems a handy place (For UK) - http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/Seals- ... index.html

Finally - Is there any particular problem removing the rear flange? It seems to be ignored in the Manual.

Vince

[mbell]

I think this is the spring I fitted:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#1692k56/=17gcfyq

I bough a few but this was the one i used, if I remember correctly I had to very slightly open it up to get it to slide over the shaft. Then made the ali spreader/plate behind it. It's not very firm but is enough to center the stick when left alone and isn't noticeable in use, unlike when try to get 5th.

I also don't think the location of the roll pin is very important as long as it holds the shaft correctly.

My memory of the manual is that it covers remove of the flange very late in the strip down section and it says you have to remove the rear housing to remove it!?! But looking at the parts diagram I can't see why, so I am starting to doubt my memory!

[NickD]

The tailshaft housing must be removed to release the ouput flange and to replace the seal, as the flange is retained by a circlip on the inside.

Nick

[vincereynard]

The tailshaft housing must be removed to release the ouput flange and to replace the seal, as the flange is retained by a circlip on the inside.

Nick

Thanks, I've reread the manual and you are perfectly correct. A bit of a nuisance as I shall have to take the housing off before I can see what seal is needed. (Or not bother. Which would guarantee an immediate leak!)

Vince