Lotus Elan

CV driveshafts

PostPost by: Pjr » Sun Sep 10, 2017 7:03 pm

Evening,

I have bought some spares which include a pair of drive shafts. They look identical to the picture on Sue Miller's website.

At either end is what looks like an alloy plate which is drilled to take 3 lug studs that bolt to the diff output shaft. On mine, presumably because the nuts were rusted, someone has cut the nuts off and the tips of the studs with them.

Can anyone tell me please if the old damaged studs can be removed and replaced with three new ones? Having taken the plate off, i can see the "head" of the stud, but I cannot see how it has been fixed into the alloy plate. I was expecting a recess in which the head of a bolt would be located, but it seems to be done some other way. In all other respects they are a nice pair of driveshafts, so Id really like to use them if I can.

Kind regards,

Phil
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PostPost by: gav » Sun Sep 10, 2017 9:06 pm

Hi Phil

I have a feeling that the bolts you are talking about may be studs which would explain why they don't have heads.

I believe that Kelsport sell them and they may be able to clarify

Good luck

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PostPost by: gav » Sun Sep 10, 2017 9:08 pm

Phil

On mine, the studs are on the wheel side rather than the diff

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PostPost by: elansprint » Mon Sep 11, 2017 6:47 am

They are studs both sides wheel side is longer to accommodate disc they are loctited in to the Ali
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PostPost by: Pjr » Mon Sep 11, 2017 9:35 am

Thanks for the info. useful to know the suds are different lengths. I expect I can offer the cv assembly up to the output shaft and measure what additional thread is required to fit a nut. I assume the nuts are "normal" depth?

In terms of removing the loctited studs, the bond must be pretty fantastic given the job they have to do. Am I to assume that the only way to remove them will be to drill them out? Or is there some clever way to weaken the loctite? Perhaps heating gently? Just worried about the aluminium....

If I get a chance later, I may phone Sue Miller and see if replacement parts are available. That would be the easiest option no doubt.

Thanks again,

Phil
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PostPost by: Pjr » Mon Sep 11, 2017 10:21 am

A bit of internet research suggests that beeswax and acetone (individually, not together) attack red loctite and help degrade it. Alternatively, it seems that heating to 280c weakens it (and aluminium melts at 600c).

have I got the nerve to try??
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PostPost by: Chancer » Mon Sep 11, 2017 10:38 am

Get an oxy torch on it and dont worry about melting the aluminium, it is a really good conductor and you will need to bring the whole plate up to the melting temp before you would even get localised melting under the flame tip, the loctite will release hours before that happens.
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PostPost by: davidc » Mon Sep 11, 2017 10:41 am

if you haven't got access to oxy then MAP plus gas that plumbers use (yellow bottle) is very good alternative as I found getting sieved bolts out.
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Mon Sep 11, 2017 10:42 am

Use a temperature controlled hot air gun to heat above the Loctite melting temperature to remove a stud in an aluminium plate.

Various arrangements have been used by people making CV conversions to locate the 3 studs that fit the lotus original drive flanges. They may be studs loctited in place or reduced head bolts pressed into the plate and trapped under the CV joint or maybe a T head bolt. Maybe some other designs I have not seen. They are all needed as you cant use a standard bolt due to interference with the CV joint OD if the bolt does not came from the other side from the CV. Alternatively you can use bolts into the adapter from the other side.

I use steel adapter plates as i dont like aluminium in the drive train

cheers
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PostPost by: Pjr » Mon Sep 11, 2017 12:12 pm

Thanks all. Very helpful and interesting.

I've just spoken to the wonderful Sue Miller who thinks she can obtain new adapter plates for me. She is so nice to deal with! I had secretly feared that individual parts would not be available: I guess we are now conditioned to think that way with most consumer products being disposable..

Given my limited engineering skills and Sue's helpfulness, I may go for the easy option and keep the old ones as spares/attempt repairing them over the longer term.

Phil
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PostPost by: pharriso » Mon Sep 11, 2017 12:50 pm

Pjr wrote:I've just spoken to the wonderful Sue Miller who thinks she can obtain new adapter plates for me. She is so nice to deal with! I had secretly feared that individual parts would not be available: I guess we are now conditioned to think that way with most consumer products being disposable..
Phil


I was going to suggest you talk withKelsport http://www.kelsport.net/contact.asp about "reconditioning" your shafts....

Sue is the best :D :D :D
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PostPost by: Hawksfield » Tue Sep 12, 2017 10:11 am

Hi

My early Sue Miller CV's only have bolts and serrated washers bolted into the alloy carrier.
They have never come loose or give any problems in 15 years, don't know why they changed the bolts for studs
Regards

John

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