Lotus Elan

hand brake tree

PostPost by: bob_rich » Sun Aug 01, 2010 5:40 pm

Hi

started cleaning up the rear suspension parts ready to paint and then refit to chassis.. How bent should the hand brake tree be? Photo below shows the one of my +2S 130.

Did not want to straighten it if it should be bent. Picture in hand book is a bit to "2 dimensional" to be clear

cheers Bob
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PostPost by: rjaxe » Sun Aug 01, 2010 7:05 pm

Bob,the handbrake tree assy looks like this on my S130, the lever the cable is attached to is flat and sort of 'S' shaped in the horizontal plane as you should be able to make out from the picture. Cannot swear its the correct one though.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Sun Aug 01, 2010 10:06 pm

This could be the "upgraded" tree I've been looking for/posted about,could you take measurements for me,from the axis to the "connections"?
Thanks
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PostPost by: rjaxe » Mon Aug 02, 2010 4:53 pm

John, I will see what dimensions I can take during this week and PM them to you.
p.s. you dont happen to have a spare 6 bolt sump you want to sell?
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PostPost by: bob_rich » Mon Aug 02, 2010 4:54 pm

Hi both

thanks for info. From what I can see I should perhaps straighten or rather flatten out mine leaving the S shape as is . I have take a further picture attached here and it is over a paper with a 5mm by 5mm square grid so you should be able to get dimensions from that. If the resolution is not up to what U require I took a higher res shot (1.1meg .jpg file) and I can e-mail that to anyone if they PM me with details. The height between the operating (S shaped arm) and the linkage arm to the brake operating rods is 40mm.

Should I straighten (flatten) or leave as is?? (Before strip down hand brake worked fine and passed last MOT without any problems )

thanks for info and hope pictures help

regards

Bob
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Mon Aug 02, 2010 7:31 pm

Bob

Thanks for the scaled photo,I should be able to get dimensions from it.it looks like the "S" allows the operating arm to sit further back also longer?

Thanks
John :wink:
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Tue Aug 03, 2010 6:50 pm

Well,this looks like the solution to the problem that some of us have (and some don't),I quote..."from chassis 50/1142 an improved handbrake linkage was fitted in production",and having a look at Bob's photo and the manual,the early handbrake tree had a smaller input lever than the later type....so,got my hammer and chisel out and fabricated a cross between the two,using the extended lever but keeping the original cable attachment,see photo
[attachment=0]2004_0322tree0005.JPG[/attachment]

will let you know how it goes...

John :wink:

Edit

You can't tell from the photo but it does have the crank in the arm to clear the frame tube...
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Wed Jan 05, 2011 9:57 am

.....and it works a treat

John :wink:
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PostPost by: Jason1 » Wed Jan 05, 2011 12:49 pm

Hi

Sue Miller sells adjustable hand-brake rods if you need more adjustment?

Jason
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Wed Jan 05, 2011 1:07 pm

More adjustment is fine but this gives you more pressure on the pads..

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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Wed Jan 05, 2011 7:41 pm

You want the uprated tree / lever ass'y and the adjustable rods. Properly set up your handbrake will work great.

Make sure your brake caliper handbrake levers are on their stops. Set the tree as far back towards the chassis down tubes as the thing will go (without cable attached) adjust the rods to allow the clevis pins to slip neatly into the holes in the caliper levers and the tree. Caliper Levers should still be on their stops and tree lever fully back. Now adjust the handbrake cable to no slack but without starting to move the caliper levers. Then adjust the pads until they more or less lock the rear wheels. Back off until the wheel then just runs free. Make sure the little brake pad pull back levers are doing their job and just hold the pads off the disc when Handbrake is off.

You will probably find the handbrake cable is about 75mm too long and adjusting it results in the adjustment screw fully out (and then some!!) Only way round this is a shorter cable or (as some use) a spacer of some sort to take up the extra length. I set everything up.Screwed in fully the adjuster for the cable and offered up and marked the cable at the tree lever to give accurate length. I then cut off the excess cable. Made a new clamp on nipple and fitted it all up.Perfect and a handbrake that can lock the rear wheels and (so far) has needed little adjustment.


The main improvements are the new 'tree'/ lever.. The adjustable rods and the correct length cable/ clamp on cable nipple. You will struggle otherwise.

Just my humble opinion mind..To each their own.. And it was me who gave Sue the design & sizes etc for the adjustable rods, although she had them made slightly differently! I also gave her the required length for the cable but I don't think she has had any of these made yet. Might have though so worth a check.


Al''
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PostPost by: Jason1 » Wed Jan 05, 2011 8:12 pm

but I don't think she has had any made yet. Might have though so worth a check.


Hi

I bought some for the +2 a while back but have not had time to fit them yet so Sue defo has had the +2 ones made.
They look good; one day I will get around to it. :D

Jason
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Wed Jan 05, 2011 8:39 pm

Hello Jason.. All,

Sorry for confusing you guys..I was referring to the shorter handbrake cables. She has been having the rods made for a while now.
Well done that Girl...
Al'''....
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PostPost by: twincamman » Tue Jan 18, 2011 2:12 pm

the pictures posted by rjaxe and bob rich shows the problem I encountered ----the turnbuckle that accepts the rear emergency brake cable fouls the ear on the diff when the umbrella handle is pulled and wont allow full engagement of the pads --correct that problem and the system works - -ed
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PostPost by: GHill » Sun May 15, 2016 5:02 pm

Guys

A quick question - do you know who stocks the clevis pin assembly shown as 9 in the pic? Trying to get hold of one!

Cheers
Gareth

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