Hub casting - time to replace?

[PaulFinch]

MOT was booked for this afternoon so spent the last 3 days sorting out known issues.

Have changed the front brake lines so was bleeding brakes when I discovered a noise from the o/s rear corner. Upon further inspection I discovered play in the the hub and hub shafts. A lot of play.

I cancelled the mot and this afternoon set about removing the strut.

When I got the shaft out, the outer bearing just fell out the casting and I was faced with what you see in the picture. A piece is missing and the carrier has been pock marked by a previous owner, presumably to try to grip the bearing.
There is no interference fit any more and the play I felt was the outer bearing race moving within the casting.

Now I think I know the answer to this already but would it be worth doing a bit more centre popping, using a load of loctite and hoping for the best, or is this carrier now scrap?

I also managed to wreck the axle threads, although these should have been replaced when I up rated the engine so this is long overdue. Not a bad afternoons work!

Thanks all. Paul

[PaulFinch]

Just seen the price of a new casting. Sweet Jesus.

Loctite it is!

[Spyder fan]

Not sure if this is any use http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOTUS-ELAN-PLUS-TWO-2-ELAN-ISSUE-18-REAR-SUSPENSION-STRUT-C-W-SHAFT-/390878427446?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5b022b7936 good second hand stuff seems to be thin on the ground.

Your existing hub carrier doesn't look re-useable to me, but maybe one of the other guys on here have a safe solution for using what you have.

[PaulFinch]

Thanks Alan,

Yes, I'd seen that earlier. A little concerned about the welding to the brake mount. Thinking it might be out of the frying pan....

[KevJ+2]

Paul,
I had the identical problem to you and found a 'good' issue 18 impossible to find. In the end I bit the bullet and fitted new SKF bearings with loctite 660
I was concerned that the loctite might not do the job but found out that I had fitted the inner bearing the wrong way round and required me to dismantle the assy to make the change. My worries about the loctite were over as it was real b***h to take apart.
Many people will argue the loctite approach but I think it's a good answer to an expensive alternative.
Kev.

[Jentwistle3]

Can you fit a sleeve?

[UAB807F]

I'd replace the bearing with loctite and then keep an eye out for a decent used casting as a back up.

I've seen the dot-punch trick used before but although I'm sure it feels ok when you first assemble it, I'm not really convinced it's any good with service loads. If you think about it, the raised area around the dot punch isn't really enough to support the bearing for anything other than assembly and is a fraction of the area normally used.

Loctite on the other hand, depending on the grade of course, can set as hard as rock and need a blowlamp to get it apart. I'd use a few dot punches to centralise the bearing and then add loctite as a base support, the 660 grade previously mentioned seems a good option.

Brian

[Elan45]

Or even Loctite RC680. You must use heat to break the bond.

But one other caution: Please use Primer T on the aluminum, before applying Loctite 680, as aluminum is not an "active" metal and the primer makes it an "active" surface. Loctite terms.

Roger

[Plus 2]

Paul,
Don't forget to check the inner sidewall of your rear tyre for any damage.
I have seen grooves created here in the rubber inner side wall of the tyre due to badly worn bearings/hubs where the tyre wall comes in contact with the lower spring pan support.

Over the past 45 years working on these cars I have seen several bodged repairs to these inner hubs even once removing wet and dry paper that had been used as an inner collar.

Back then years ago the hubs were easier to get and cheaper. I have always purchased any good ones I saw at Donnington and kept them for spares.

The centre punching when used in conjunction with Loctite has always worked well when the wear has been minor, however if allowed to have become very worn it is not something I would recommend but again seen done by some unscrupulous owners just to sell the car on.

Again personally I agree with above comments and would not risk the repaired one for sale on eBay. Any repair to what I consider a safety critical area is just not acceptable and IMHO I certainly don't consider the weld looks that good anyway. Alloy welding is not easy so no doubt was done by someone that did have some skill and equipment but I just wonder if they knew exactly what function that top ear that has been welded actually does.

Your hub appears to have some damage to the inner back wall probably where someone has not realised the half moon cut outs were there to assist bearing removal. I would not be too concerned with that but if the hub wear has been enough to create the contact between spring pan and tyre then for me I would replace it.

Regards

[englishmaninwales]

I recently refitted mine with Loctite bearing adhesive and 700 miles on no problem so far. But the damage on yours is considerably worse.
If you decide to replace and originality is not an issue, the fabricated strut from Spyder is cheaper than a new aluminium one.
That repaired strut has been on eBay more times than I can remember over the last 12 months, and never had a bid. I wouldn't use it.
Malcolm

[PaulFinch]

Thanks for the responses.

Ill health has kept me from the garage this week but I've been doing some more research on this problem.

I will be attempting the loctite route but which grade? I think 660 is winning at the moment having looked through the technical data sheets.

With regard any tyre damage caused by the spring seats, I have fitted 2.25" springs so the clearance hasn't been an issue.

[nomad]

Used Loctite green (680??) on several similar bearing issues. It will do amazing things and I wouldn't hesitate to use it and trust it. Use the loctite cleaner as suggested.

Kurt
26/3754

[rgh0]

680 is for a maximum clearance of 0.2mm 660 is for a maximum clearance of 0.5mm (both using the primer at these clearances.) So pick the one that suits your issue. They also have a machinable aluminium repair putty for bigger repairs of castings though if you get to this point I would probably be looking at a weld repair instead. I used 660 on a hub for about 6 months temporarily until I could get a new one with no problems.

Weld repairs are also practical:

My Plus 2 has a weld repaired hub where a cylindrical insert was made and pressed in and welded in place for the outer bearing. Been there since before I bought the car in the early 80's and still going strong.

My Elan has a welded brake support lug like the one shown in the picture . Provided the welding is done correctly it will be as strong or stronger than the original casting. Again its been there since I bought the car in the 70's and I discovered the crack in it with no problems and a lot of race braking stress since.

cheers
Rohan