Knock on drive pins (pegs)

PostPost by: fattogatto » Wed Feb 07, 2018 2:11 pm

I have seen tapered pegs, as well. Depends on what someone wants to make. The bottom line here is that the diameter of the peg where it meets the wheel should be close to the diameter of the hole in the wheel. A tapered or stepped peg just makes it easier to get the wheel started onto the pegs.
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PostPost by: joe7 » Wed Feb 07, 2018 8:03 pm

According to the info on RD website there are 2 different types of drive pins, which he recommends checking which one you may have before ordering.
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PostPost by: CBUEB1771 » Wed Feb 07, 2018 10:38 pm

The Service Parts List for the +2 shows only one part number for the drive peg, 050 G 0011. This is the single diameter type without the headed inboard end. There is a change in part number for the Elan, from 036 G 0011 to 050 G 0011,which indicates standardization on the single diameter drive peg on both the Elan and +2 with the introduction of the +2. By single diameter I mean that the diameter where the peg is press fit into the hub is the same at the diameter where the wheel is engaged when the knock-on nut is fully drawn up. I have never seen a 050 G 0011 drive peg that did not have a short conical section turned on the outboard end to ease installation of the wheel. I use the descriptor "drive peg" because those are the words used by Lotus in the Service Parts Lists.
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PostPost by: elj221c » Thu Feb 08, 2018 1:22 pm

Personally I would not use the plain type. I did once, bought from Len Street (see that thread), but they all fell out in short order causing the wheel to tighten on the hub. Took a lot of BFAI to get it off. I'm not sure whether it was poor manufacture or enlarged hub holes that was the problem.

They were all that were available at the time. Fortunately my neighbour had a lathe and turned me up some 'top hat' type to a good press fit to which I added some Loctite. No more problems.
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PostPost by: CBUEB1771 » Thu Feb 08, 2018 3:14 pm

elj221c wrote:Personally I would not use the plain type.


They are not interchangeable, at least the rear hubs would need to be machined so that the headed end of the earlier pegs would seat squarely. I believe that the headed type also have a larger diameter where they fit into the hub.
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PostPost by: bitsobrits » Fri Feb 09, 2018 3:26 am

The flanged pegs and the straight pegs do indeed have different diameters and as such are not interchangeable. Dave Bean's catalog has a nice diagram with dimensions of the two designs.
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PostPost by: elj221c » Fri Feb 09, 2018 8:56 am

Something new every day! Didn't realise the later hubs were different.That would explain why the pins fell out!.

:wink:
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