[cal44]

Use Por-15 if available. I sold the product for ten years and use it on all of my cars. Trust me, there is nothing better.

Listen up.........I know my stuff.

First, do not open the lid on the can. Take a punch and punch two holes on opposing sides of the lid. To seal, install of couple of wood or sheet metal screws. I have used one quart for over a years time and it did not harden in the can.

Two important points. The instructions tell you not to shake the can.........I shake the can because I run the paints through a paint filter. The throw away kind the painters use. This way you filter out the carbon bits and fine bubbles.

Very thin coats about two hours apart. Since Por is a moisture cure product is will set faster on hot moist days. So, be mindful and check your project every twenty minutes.

Be sure too only use Por-15 thinner to clean the metal. If your metal is too smooth the paint will not adhere as well.....rough it up!

Do not buy the Chassis Coat and think brushing it will produce a good finish.....it must be sprayed.
Use the Semi Gloss or Gloss, that can be brushed with great success.

Use the Latex throw away gloves..........the kind you clean you grand mother with.........you will thank me in the long run.

I do all my suspension bits with Por. My Boss 302 looks as though it was done last week.........it was five years ago.

Mike

[Robbie693]

Good tips Mike, couple of questions -

Is it usual to apply the rust preventative paint and then a top coat also?

The only semi gloss I can find is the chassis coat stuff, when you say use the gloss or semi gloss, do you mean from the topcoat range? - http://www.por15.com/Single-Part-Topcoats/products/4/

Cheers

Robbie

[rdssdi]

If you are removing the arms and having the old paint removed a first step of metal etching will assure good adhesion of the paint.

You can degrease and apply an etching solution or degrease and paint with a good self etching primer. Then seal and paint.

The metal prep is the most important step.

Bob

[AHM]

Transpeed - Easy to apply, good coverage, great finish. They paint trains with it!

Strange smelling thinners though.

[cal44]

Robbie,

http://www.por15.com/POR-15/productinfo/1GB/

Bob is correct. Removing all is best. Por makes an etching solution and it removes flash rust. My funnest way is to bead blast then clean with Por-15 solvent until no signs of dirt on the the paper towel. Then the then coats.

If you do it on the car with suspension intact...........I use a Dremmel with the cheap brushes from China on Ebay. Then clean clean clean with the solvent. Then paint.

Hope this helps.

Mike

[Robbie693]

Thanks mike,

so a couple of coats of the anti rust stuff should ok.

Cheers

Robbie

[cal44]

Robbie,

one more thing. If you do not like the finish of the Por-15 you can paint over it with a flatter finish by doing the following.

Once the last coat is applied, wait until the Por is dry enough too drag your finger acorss with out the paint sticking too your skin but not waiting too long. It needs too be just a tiny bit tacky. Then "fog" a very lite coat of a top notch spray paint, not cheap crap! Remember fog? if you put it on too thick the Por-15 cannot vent the gases.

Let sit for 24 hrs. then put on more coats of the spray. I had to do this too my spring shackles and shock plates/all front suspension on the Mustang as the regular Por-15 would be to shiny for good taste.
Even the Semi-gloss Por-15 can be too shiny.

Another secret is do not paint everything shiny under the car...........you'll end up with something that looks like a Mexican Taxi................and that ain't good.

Good luck and take pix,
Mike

[Robbie693]

Thanks again Mike - point taken about the too shiny bit, with you all the way on that one

Cheers

Robbie

[Fred Talmadge]

What about powder coating?