Cant start ...wont start
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I have just joined your forum and whilst I am not a Lotus owner I am keen to get into the marque in the fullness of time. Meanwhile, I have a task ahead of me. Because I am reasonably competent mechanic and have restored a number of cars for myself, E type 3.8, 4.2, Range Rovers, Wartime Jeep, etc. my brother in law has asked me to start his long stored Elan Sprint. He bought the car back in the 70s and stopped using it about 1984 from memory. Some months ago he suggested that we drag it out of its garage and get it started. Unfortunately , I had no tools with me and using his small selection of "tools" we failed. It would not fire at all. Since I reckon most fuel problems usually turn out to be ignition thats where I was concentrating. I have been asked to visit in early May and the idea is that we will get the car started this time. It was not seized had fuel but we could not get a spark. Now my brother in law could recall whether it was negative earth or positive earth and whether he had bought the correct coil etc etc etc. I know all engines work broadly in the same way , but is there anything I should look for on a Lotus, being fibre glass and therefore whether we were achieving a good earth or not. I will have time to go right through it properly this visit and will take some of my own tools meters etc etc. Would appreciate any advice though. This sounds rather a pathetic question reading it back. I know how to diagnose an ignition fault, but if there is anything I should bear in mind it would be useful to know. thanks Andrew
- andrewh
- New-tral
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- Joined: 15 Apr 2018
Hello Andrew and welcome to the site.
I was chatting to some expert Lotus car restorers a while ago. They had pulled an Elan out of long term storage and I went to have a look at it. I commented that nobody drives an Elan into a garage that was in perfect working order and just leaves it there for 20 or 30 years. They agreed. There is always a reason why it has not been driven. Occasionally the reason might be health issues, but more often than not, there was a problem with the car. You might want to quiz your BIL for further info.
Moving forward, personally, I would not try to start it without carrying out much work, you will do more harm than good. The car will almost certainly have its original steel fuel tank fitted, which will be rusty. You would not want to draw up loads of rust into the fuel pump. The carbs will want a complete overhaul. The fuel pump will want an overhaul. Drain the old oil out of the sump, jacking the car higher on the left hand side by about 6" over the rhs, so that you get ALL the old oil out. Leave draining for at least a couple of hours. I leave it over night.
I would remove the cam cover to check that the cams are not rusty on the lobes or the buckets. Whilst the cam cover is off, suck out the old oil that has pooled in the bucket recess'. No point in new oil mixing with old. Check that the cam timing is correct whilst you are in there and you might as well check the valve clearances. Fit a new cam gasket and half moons and that is skill in itself, to get that oil tight.
Remove the fan belt and spin over the water pump pulley. Any notchyness and the bearing has had it. The seal will undoubtedly have had it anyway.
Fit a new dissy cap, a set of points, and a condenser, unless the car has electronic ignition, and a new set of plugs.
Good luck with it and post up some pictures, love to see the car.
Leslie
I was chatting to some expert Lotus car restorers a while ago. They had pulled an Elan out of long term storage and I went to have a look at it. I commented that nobody drives an Elan into a garage that was in perfect working order and just leaves it there for 20 or 30 years. They agreed. There is always a reason why it has not been driven. Occasionally the reason might be health issues, but more often than not, there was a problem with the car. You might want to quiz your BIL for further info.
Moving forward, personally, I would not try to start it without carrying out much work, you will do more harm than good. The car will almost certainly have its original steel fuel tank fitted, which will be rusty. You would not want to draw up loads of rust into the fuel pump. The carbs will want a complete overhaul. The fuel pump will want an overhaul. Drain the old oil out of the sump, jacking the car higher on the left hand side by about 6" over the rhs, so that you get ALL the old oil out. Leave draining for at least a couple of hours. I leave it over night.
I would remove the cam cover to check that the cams are not rusty on the lobes or the buckets. Whilst the cam cover is off, suck out the old oil that has pooled in the bucket recess'. No point in new oil mixing with old. Check that the cam timing is correct whilst you are in there and you might as well check the valve clearances. Fit a new cam gasket and half moons and that is skill in itself, to get that oil tight.
Remove the fan belt and spin over the water pump pulley. Any notchyness and the bearing has had it. The seal will undoubtedly have had it anyway.
Fit a new dissy cap, a set of points, and a condenser, unless the car has electronic ignition, and a new set of plugs.
Good luck with it and post up some pictures, love to see the car.
Leslie
- 512BB
- Coveted Fifth Gear
- Posts: 1131
- Joined: 24 Jan 2008
I have just recommissioned a 1962 Lotus Super 7 after 30 years in a museum and being flooded in water. I rebuilt the carbs, drained the fuel system, checked the coil and points, and replaced oil and filter. I then removed the plugs and pumped a small quantity of oil into each cylinder and left for a week. Then cranked without plugs to get oil pressure, then replaced plugs and went for a start. After a couple of cranks it fired and now runs sweetly.
All rubber components, brake seals etc need replacing and a few wiring issues have proved troublesome but going for an MOT this week.
If the engine cranks over it?s unlikely the cams, etc have suffered so just be sensible and replace the oil, get good oil pressure and then replace electric components as required to get a good spark. Check timing then go for a start.
What have you got to lose? It either starts and runs ok or you do a complete engine strip and rebuild.
All rubber components, brake seals etc need replacing and a few wiring issues have proved troublesome but going for an MOT this week.
If the engine cranks over it?s unlikely the cams, etc have suffered so just be sensible and replace the oil, get good oil pressure and then replace electric components as required to get a good spark. Check timing then go for a start.
What have you got to lose? It either starts and runs ok or you do a complete engine strip and rebuild.
Elan +2
Elise mk 1
Elise mk 1
- Donels
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 690
- Joined: 10 Sep 2016
If you cant get a spark and don't have 12V on the coil just ask him about the hidden switch, it may have been switched when the car was stored.
- AussieJohn
- Third Gear
- Posts: 456
- Joined: 10 Jun 2007
I would not get to hung up about geting oil pressure on the gauge after an oil change. Sometimes you can crank forever with the plugs out and pressure never comes up, but as soon as you put the plugs in and the engine starts, pressure miraculously appears.
Further, I would not try to start it without the carb air box attached and a LARGE fire extinguisher to hand. Many an Elan has gone up in smoke on start up. Ask baldy above
Leslie
Further, I would not try to start it without the carb air box attached and a LARGE fire extinguisher to hand. Many an Elan has gone up in smoke on start up. Ask baldy above
Leslie
- 512BB
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 24 Jan 2008
Many apologies for this reply being so long in coming. Anyway, the weekend looms large and I am off to go look at the Sprint. I will ask him why he put it away, good point. Also, what do you mean Aussie John when you refer to the hidden switch ? I doubt the engine will be rusty, its been in heated garage and not open to any elements. I can take my camera and take a look inside to be sure. The issue is lack of spark. Are they negative earth or positive earth please?
- andrewh
- New-tral
- Posts: 6
- Joined: 15 Apr 2018
512BB wrote:I would not get to hung up about geting oil pressure on the gauge after an oil change. Sometimes you can crank forever with the plugs out and pressure never comes up, but as soon as you put the plugs in and the engine starts, pressure miraculously appears.
Further, I would not try to start it without the carb air box attached and a LARGE fire extinguisher to hand. Many an Elan has gone up in smoke on start up. Ask baldy above
Leslie
Great advice thanks.
- andrewh
- New-tral
- Posts: 6
- Joined: 15 Apr 2018
The factory fitted an isolation switch in the ignition circuit as an immobiliser, I would ask him whether he used it.
- AussieJohn
- Third Gear
- Posts: 456
- Joined: 10 Jun 2007
When the anti theft switch in the glovebox is turned on, it prevents the engine from firing but should also sound the horn.
Richard
'72 Sprint
'72 Sprint
- richardcox_lotus
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- Joined: 11 Jul 2004
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