Dumb question - am I missing the jackshaft spacer?

[2cams70]

If you want to remove the spacer from the jackshaft tap it gently with a plastic hammer both near and opposite the dowel pin alternately. It hangs up there but should still come off relatively easily. You don't really need to remove it but it's best to so you can get things cleaned properly.

There's no real mysteries with the LTC engine. It's all simple basic Ford Kent series except for the cylinder head. The cylinder head is the only specialised area where it requires a good machinist with prior experience.

I wouldn't recommend replacing the jackshaft bearings yourself. It's easy to burr the edges when knocking them in without the proper mandrels and it's also difficult to align all 3 properly so the jackshaft spins freely. Take the jackshaft with you when you have them fitted so the machine shop can check the jackshaft for free running.

Nothing special required with tuning either if the engine is unmodified and with standard camshaft profiles. Just stick with standard jets, timing, etc. and you can't really go wrong. Just make sure everything is in good original condition and replace anything worn with new.

[groucho]

Thanks, I'll try to get that spacer off to get it all cleaned up.

If I take the block in to a machine shop for jackshaft bearings, I'll have them, at a minimum, assemble the pistons and crank too. I'm going to have parts coming from Australia (thank you, exchange rate) so I have some time to make up my mind on how much else they'll do!

I bought the Elantrikbits plans for the oil pan baffles but I think there's too much faffing around to get the fits right, unless I find a machine shop who might be up for that project, too...

[2cams70]

I'd recommend a machine shop for the following (assuming you don't need head work??)
- Check cylinders for taper and ovality (your eyes if they have experience are pretty useful here too). Rebore and hone if necessary. Supply pistons so boring can be done to correct size. Sonic test if boring over 0.040".
- Fit new small end bushes if new pistons are being installed. Check big end sizing - hone if necessary. Fit pistons to rods (after balancing)
- Hot tank block. Recommend you remove all oil gallery and core plugs, clean galleries and scrape bottom of cylinders with screwdriver to remove waterway corrosion as best you can before handing over block so the hot tanking is most effective.
- Fit new jackshaft bearings
- Crack test crankshaft, check journals for taper and ovality (again eyes are a good guide here). If it needs a regrind supply machinist with new bearings so that journals can be ground to suit. Typically aim for .002" clearance on B/E and mains.
- Fit new ring gear to flywheel (so balance is accurate, ring gear cost negligible in the scheme of things)
- Balance crank, pistons and rods, flywheel, front pulley, clutch pressure plate. Supply new pressure plate to machinist unless your existing one is hardly worn

Everything else you can do yourself. Invest in a good quality torque wrench and piston ring compressor.

[Billmack]

Replace all and while they're out remove the oiling system plugs and flush out the passages. That swarf didn't come from nowhere

[groucho]

When I did get the engine block back, I believe they did hot tank it - it was actually clean for the first time in a few decades. I don't know if they removed the plugs or not.

I spent some time last year painting it a close-to-correct Ford Gray (3 coats + 3 coats of clear) instead of the incorrect blue that it was, so I don't want to have to redo all that. I don't think I have to, based upon what was done.