heater valve

[paddy]

I did something similar a few months back, and used a Sirai L340 valve. The datasheet is here:

http://www.zoedale.co.uk/uploaded_photo ... 0-V08G.pdf

This is a 3-port valve (so can be used both normally open and normally closed, for early or fail-safe configurations) originally intended for bio diesel applications. It has a 8mm bore throughout so you can get quite rapid activation of the lights in comparison with a lot of the valves that have only 4mm or so bores.

There is a UK distributor (www.zoedale.co.uk) but they didn't want to do retail sales at the time. I got one off ebay (a german seller, but the price worked out around ?60).

I didn't do any really scientific research, so there may well be better alternatives out there - but you should watch out for valves that are designed to operate with fluids under pressure, where the fluid pressure reinforces the seal - if you use these with vacuum then they leak when closed.

The reason for the swap was that the valve of the dash was leaking vacuum and I couldn't find a replacement or any means of renewing the seals.

Paddy

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

Another solution is to fit a modern heating system solenoid valve out of site next to the heater, behind the dash.
A system I had to adopt on my Zetec project.
Must admit I'm fond of solenoid valves; I used one to actuate the headlights which got rid of those ugly vacuum pipes running the length of the engine bay.
Each to his own

Cheers
John

Which solenoid valve did you use for the headlights and where did you get it from?

The valve I intend to use came from the maker (I was in the trade until recently)
It is a fuel system purge valve from a modern VW. All other modern petrol engined cars use them; they are routed to the active charcoal filter.
Most of them have fairly small stubs for the piping which can throttle the system & cause a slowed down headlamp reaction. (My present set up!)
The valve that I will soon fit has 8mm Dia. stubs which are ideal for the existing vacuum pipes.
Beware of other variations that don't have a vent to atmosphere facility. These will leave your headlights permanetly up.
Viagra anyone

Cheers
John

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

Errm,

I only just looked at the drawing of the valve Paddy has described.
Hope you don't mind me saying that it is a bit of an overkill for the application.

Practically all of the solenoid valves used for the active charcoal purge application are designed for lower pressures & the casings are plastic moldings.
I would expect them to be considerably cheaper & more readily available than the one pictured.

I have also noted that Paddy & I share the same oppinion about the smaller stub Dia's

Cheers
John

[paddy]

John,

overkill = sacrilege

Have you got a link or part no for the valve you will use?

Thanks - Paddy

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

Hrrm yes I do have a certain way of saying things don't I.
Sorry not at the moment. There's no number noted in my records.
I've tried to find the valve in my garage to no avail.
It will definately have apart N? on it.
I'll post it as soon as it's found. (Another search tomorrow if it ever gets light!!)

Cheers
John

[elansprint71]

You say

"I have a silly black TT bottom hose on my 26R rad (just a simple elbow, rather than the curly-wurly thing which never did fit properly)".....I have been thinking about that for a while but don't think a simple 90 degree elbow would fit...do you have a photo?

Thanks
John

I have one now!

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

Hi paddy,

the valve is made by Pierburg, Germany.
The part numbers printed on the body are:-

VW Audi (Symbols) 05T256

077 906 283 B

7.22687 10 APG

Sorry can't provide a pic' don't know how to reduce to a suitable size to attach.

Cheers
John

[paddy]

Great, thanks. Let me know how you get on with it.

And merry Xmas to all.

Paddy

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

Paddy,

don't hold back to await my results.
The solenoid valve with much smaller stubs, presently fitted, works OK so I have no doubts that this one with 8mm stubs will be quicker.
It will also eliminate the step down pipe dia. adaptors that I presently have in place.
Much tidier

It's already Christmas here the families are now dishing out the pressies-

Cheers
John

[patrics]

Hello

Are we still talking about the heater valve or has this gone off topic?

Cheers
Steve

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

Yup this thread's gone walkabout & the buck stops here.
Nowt unusual for this Forum though

John

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

Hi,
I'm back again, but this time with a couple of Pics of the solenoid valve desctibed in my earlier posting.
The black cap seen on the left vents to atmosphere which permits the headlamps to retract.
Beware not all fuel system (charcoal filter) vent valves have this vent to atmosphere feature!
The 2nd Pic shows the rubber (vibration damping) mounting which slips over the valve body

Cheers
John

[collins_dan]

John, How did you install the solenoid to operate the headlamps? My S4 has a vacuum leak in the headlamp switch. I have tried to lubricate the rubber, tighten down the casing... to no avail. Thanks. Dan

[GrUmPyBoDgEr]

I completely eliminated the dasboard switch (valve) & the associated piping from it, that run through the engine bay.
That was the main reason; tidy up the engine bay.
The solenoid was fitted close to the headlight pods & cross member vacuum tank.
The choice is up to you, where you want to position it.
One side of the valve connected to the vacuum supply pipe (T-piece on vacuum tank) & the other side of the valve to the duply pipe to the headlamp vaccum cylinders.
The wiring was incorporated into a new wiring harness.
An electricity supply from the headlight switch or from the microswitches will supply power to the solenoid & lift the lights.

Cheers
John

[collins_dan]

So what do you have on the dash to get the whole thing started? Thanks. Dan