New, and worrying, engine noise.

[reb53]

Which is starting to get a little more persistent.
A sort of "Brrrrrrrrrrrrr" as I'm cruising.

Engine needs to have warmed up.
Not leaky manifold.
Not tappets, or chain.
Tops of tappets firm in their sleeves but unable to tell if one is loose when depressed.

However, and I suspect this is the big clue, light pressure on the clutch pedal stops it dead.
Clutch is working fine, the merest touch quietens the noise.

Thought perhaps one of the bearings that control crankshaft endfloat had failed big time but a bit of judicious levering on the crank pulley doesn't produce the slightest movement.

I don't care about the noise, but I do worry that it may be a warning of impending doom.......
Any ideas ?

Ralph.

[ericbushby]

What if the clutch release bearing is not pulling back clear of the clutch fingers and just touching.
You can watch it`s operation by removing the gaiter on the bell housing.
Also check that there is some clearance at the end of the slave cylinder push rod and that the return spring is OK.
Just first thoughts as you say it goes away with touching the clutch pedal.
Best of luck.
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC

[reb53]

Thanks Eric, I'll check in the morning and report back.

Ralph.

[AHM]

When was the last time you adjusted the clutch?

[el-saturn]

..................it sure sounds like clutch release bearing - unsufficiant clearance (1,5 or 2 mil) means a worn bearing after 500Ks!! as i've been told. that means: engine out, new bearing, back in: 6hrs + 30? part!! going for a long walk with the wife can take longer!! sandy - actually went mushroom HUNTING this afternoon with'er: nothin!!!!!!

[reb53]

Just stopped for morning tea.

However I have got the car over my small pit and have started to investigate.
Suspiciously small amount of freeplay in the clutch pushrod.
Not tight, but I'm sure it had a bit more "rattle" in the past.

About a year ago I pulled the engine to get at the clutch as it was sticking, and staying engaged intermittently, making gear changes difficult/impossible.
I suspected dry, or no, lubrication on the splines so the clutch plate was staying, and rubbing, against the flywheel.
Basically, acting as though it was still engaged.
Cleaning, and lubricating the splines as per Ford's recommendation absolutely transformed the clutch action.
Smooth, easy, take up, absolutely perfect.

I did, however, and this is the "kicker", swap back in the clutch I removed 25 years ago at rebuild time.
There was nothing wrong with it at the time but I did it as insurance.
The old one looked in better shape, and less worn, so it went back in.
It's perhaps changed its characteristics slightly so I'll have a re-adjust when I've finished my coffee.

Ralph.

[el-saturn]

pretty late for coffee ralph. if i was there id have a glass of sauvignon blanc sandy, alps

[reb53]

Time will tell, well a good long drive will, but may have sorted this.
The clutch slave had a bit of free play in its housing so it could float.
It could move towards the rear of the car enough that the adjustment in effect disappeared, and I suspect the bearing was touching the fingers of the clutch.

The front end of the spring was anchored, as is normal, to the slave.
It is now anchored to the bell housing, rather than the slave, so the clutch "arm" is always fully retracted regardless of whether the slave cylinder is moving a little in its housing.
The cylinder was slightly sprung because of the metal pipe attached to it, and was pushing towards the back of the car removing the small gap that should be there.

Now all I have to do is track down all the other little tapping sounds that seem related to idle mixture settings, and why the mixture screw sometimes does something, and other times doesn't, why my car has the "wrong" distributor and even with Wilken's book I can't figure out the correct advance, etc, etc........sigh

Thanks for the input, I'll let you know the outcome when I've done a few more miles.

Ralph.

P.S. A Swiss sav blanc, now there's something I haven't tried Sandy !

[AHM]

Ralph,
If you are adjusting the clutch go by the words in the manual and ignore the diagram which shows the wrong measuring points.

I also had the same sticking symptoms with the new clutch on the S3 - the Borg Beck catalogue has a note to machine part of the spine to prevent sticking - was your new friction disk from BB?

[reb53]

I just dug the old plate out and it was a B & B.
However, it was ok for 20 years so wouldn't think there was too much wrong with it.
I'd be interested to know what the note said re machining.

I recall a long time ago there was a plate that came off some Ford or another that needed the spline shortening slightly as it was too fat.

Ralph.

[promotor]

Time will tell, well a good long drive will, but may have sorted this.
The clutch slave had a bit of free play in its housing so it could float.
It could move towards the rear of the car enough that the adjustment in effect disappeared, and I suspect the bearing was touching the fingers of the clutch.

Does your slave have the retaining circlip fitted?

[reb53]

Yes, the circlip is there but the "slop" is about as much as the circlip is wide.
This is a new slave as well, not a dodgy 50 year old one.

[promotor]

Yes, the circlip is there but the "slop" is about as much as the circlip is wide.
This is a a dodgy new slave as well, not a 50 year old one.

I've fixed that for you! New doesn't necessarily mean better!

It's good that it's loose in terms of being able to remove it if need be (as they're a pain to remove after 40+ years of corrosion and clutch fluid), but it's not so good with the issue you've got.

Is there room to fit another circlip the same size? Or maybe use bearing retaining compound to stop it moving around?

[reb53]

I'm thinking that the way I've now relocated the anchor point for the the spring has automatically compensated for any wear.
Basically it can wear as much as it likes but the small amount of free play will always be there.

[promotor]

I'm thinking that the way I've now relocated the anchor point for the the spring has automatically compensated for any wear.
Basically it can wear as much as it likes but the small amount of free play will always be there.

It's possible that the free play will get slightly worse as the aluminium rocks/rubs against the bellhousing "loop" but I'm sure it won't happen at a great rate of knots so you'll be able to keep a close eye on it without too much worry.