Lotus Elan

Pull engine to do headwork?

PostPost by: ftsoft » Sat Aug 11, 2018 4:09 pm

a few years ago I had an extensive rebuild of the engine in my S2. Unfortunately the machine shop that did the head work failed to replace the valve guides and now I get a lot of smoking on start-up. I plan to have this redone next year. I seems to me that pulling the engine shouldn't be necessary.

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PostPost by: 1owner69Elan » Sat Aug 11, 2018 4:19 pm

No need to pull the engine for just head work.

Done many times.
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PostPost by: ftsoft » Sat Aug 11, 2018 4:24 pm

Thanks for the confirmation.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sat Aug 11, 2018 4:30 pm

Make sure whoever changes the Valve Guides know what they are doing. There are no Seals on the Valve Guides and they need to be reamed correctly with correct clearance for each Valve Stem
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PostPost by: ftsoft » Sat Aug 11, 2018 8:28 pm

thanks Alan. I assume that the manual covers that?

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PostPost by: vstibbard » Sun Aug 12, 2018 4:38 am

With heads on early S1 and S2's there is a issue with oil pooling at rear of head under the oil filler cap area that affects #4 cylinder, this then leaves excess oil that drains down even a good guide, this issue was subsequently resolved with a cross head drain drilling.

We've drilled a tapped an put external drain which eliminates the issue. the picture below clearly shows the copper pip that drains the oil back into the breather chamber on crab side of head. We've used this simple mod dill and tap with grease on and its tops the smoke on start up.

Obvious caveat is check if guides are stuffed or its thi issue which is isolated to number 4 cylinder, its the guides if all plugs are moulded up or oily, only #4 if its the drainage issue will be sooty.

Cheers

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img_4230.jpg and
note coper pip running across rear of head
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PostPost by: RichardHawkins » Sun Aug 12, 2018 4:29 pm

V,

Your chassis looks lovely as does the side of the body shell.

Do you have a better photo? I can't even see the tube you have installed.

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PostPost by: RichardHawkins » Sun Aug 12, 2018 4:33 pm

Frank,

The only problem I have with removing the head as a separate item is that I no longer have the strength to lift it, and have to use a hair block.

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PostPost by: Davidb » Sun Aug 12, 2018 5:44 pm

Frank, I redid the valve guides on my S2 last winter and found that this has reduced oil consumption to virtually zero! However, as others have said, be sure to use a machine shop with the skill and tools required-you need 3/4 of a thou clearance on the intakes and 1-1.2 thou on the exhaust--those are very fine clearances that I learned by reading up on the subject on this forum. The clearances in the manual are much larger and will cause leakage.

Get a friend to help with lifting off the head-leave the carbs on as they serve as convenient handles.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sun Aug 12, 2018 6:05 pm

When i remove a Head i always remove the Carbs to stop damage. Also when you refit the Head you need to do that without the Carbs so you can be sure the Breather between the Head and block is in place and sealed correctly.
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PostPost by: billwill » Sun Aug 12, 2018 7:08 pm

For lifting the head with block & tackle see my Clay test topic from this point
lotus-twincam-f39/clay-test-checking-clearance-between-valves-pistons-t26441.html#p175063
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PostPost by: ftsoft » Mon Aug 13, 2018 11:51 am

Thanks for all of the great feedback everyone!

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PostPost by: CBUEB1771 » Tue Aug 14, 2018 5:12 pm

vstibbard wrote:We've drilled a tapped an put external drain which eliminates the issue.


Very neat solution for older cylinder heads.
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PostPost by: Davidb » Tue Aug 14, 2018 5:32 pm

It is a neat solution but can we get more details and possibly better photos? Where does the tube go to?

Frank, I forgot that I don't have the oil drainback tube in my engine so I don't have to worry about it! However, I have used the carbs as handles to lift off cylinder heads for nearly forty years without problems and on a couple of occasions I have done it single handed--I don't recommend that though! (Hard on the back).
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