rear cork pan gasket?????

PostPost by: el-saturn » Wed Apr 16, 2014 9:29 pm

hi there - just fitted the pan and noticed that the rear cork moved a bit towards towards the clutch
(which isn?t fitted yet) about 5mm at the top. the top of the cork has a nice 3-4mm wide cord of silicone
and it?s still in its notch. if you were to look at it from the side the top third slipped by maybe 5? AND
it doesn?t move. do you also think this is uncritical?????? really hoping to see yr opinions PLUS I?m sure
this happens often! and i don?t expect ot to leak! chheers sandy of the alps
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Wed Apr 16, 2014 11:42 pm

I use the Loctite No3 avitation gasket sealer that has been left to go tacky on the faces of the cork as this helps prevent movement as it is compressed. I only use a small dab of silicone in the corners where it joins the flat gaskets. The Loctite It also helps the cork seal and not move over time and does not get squeezed out of the joint like silicone does.

The movement that has occured sounds to be relatively small and within the range of acceptable. If the gasket is in the groove fully and still in good contact and compresed evenly along its length by the sump pan and if the corner sections look like they are still in place and sealing with the gaskets on the bottom face then it is probably ok even with a little distortion towards the clutch.

While it is perfectly possible to get a good seal with silicone and a slight movement of the gasket personally if I was doing it I would repeat using the Loctite. But that is purely a personal opinion based on what has worked for me in the past..My biggest concern would be would the cork continue to squeeze out over time and eventually lead to a leak

cheers
Rohan..
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PostPost by: el-saturn » Thu Apr 17, 2014 5:26 am

thanks rohan ---- i actually used a new product by innotec (swiss??) which is resistant to oil, gasoline
etc... we didn?t use the thick cork gasket between head and timing case: it was 5mm of this goo-ey
stufff and my pay says it?ll be perfect? i have a dry sump pan which i can remove in situ: i don?t even have
to move the sway bar! --------------- so worst case would be new gaskets and 2 hrs of work - happy easter
everybody and yo can expect some photos alpine greetings sandy
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Thu Apr 17, 2014 12:17 pm

Not sure what Innotec product you used but from their web site it looks like a lot of the modern silicone sealants used by car manufacturers with automated application systems. Not sure how well it will seal a 5 mm gap with hand application between the front cover and head but worth a try I guess. I will be interested in how it holds up long term. Just be careful you don't get any coming out on the inside and fouling the oil system.

cheers
Rohan

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PostPost by: el-saturn » Thu Apr 17, 2014 4:06 pm

i?m also pretty apprehensive to say the least, but my buddy runs a Westfield Lotus 23 where he did it exactly
so and says it?s perfect. the only actual gaskets left are: sump: cork and the new burton (cometic) pair and the
rocker cover will also be the new burton type which i only seal at the bottom --- this way i can open the cover
whenever i need toand it?s been perfect. all of these new style gaskets seem to be THE modern way to go!
happy easter sandy
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