Charcoal canister

[prezoom]

Every rock I turn over, produces more worms. A DPO's use of a flame wrench to create more room for the exhaust, also nicely sealed the plastic line from the expansion chamber on the fuel tank to the charcoal canister. Only now, there is no canister or the appropriate lines to the carburetors and air box.

I am wondering if these canisters are still available from the usual sources? I would like to cut the distance of the chase/hunt if possible and any information would be very welcome.

[Sea Ranch]

I'm just a lurker, here, Rob. A topic near and dear to my heart. My Plus 2 did not come with the factory system (car's too early) so I'm hoping to craft one from wrecking yard parts. Will look forward to seeing what comes out of this thread. Great topic.

Randy

[prezoom]

A trip to the local Pick A Part may be in order. Giving serious thought to converting the headlights to a Miata/MX5 electrical unit, as I have just done the modification to the front cross member/vacuum canister for the Zetec conversion, and have yet to do a sustained vacuum test. Which also falls in line with the moving the air horns and associated compressor, and the removal of the air-to-oil cooler mounted in the nose. All to make room for the new aluminum radiator from Wizzard Cooling which, comes in kit form.

There was some rust in the vacuum chamber, and an electric solenoid had replaced the normal vacuum switch. The one way valve had also been replaced with a substantially more robust unit, which was not necessarily a bad thing. The vacuum test will seal the deal.

Since the new engine will be on Webers to start with, it also raises the question of how to plumb the vapor lines to those carbs. The +2 had been converted to Webers by modifying the Stromberg head with a welded on Weber style manifold. A bit dodgy, as it was not compatible with the standard air box back plate. With the inadvertently sealed vapor line sealed, quite nicely by the cutting torch, I am also puzzled how the fuel tank was able to replace fuel with air, with a sealed filler cap, as fuel was consumed. Another PO is when the chassis was torched, they managed to partially destroy the stamped VIN number. Only the last 4 digits remain. Alas, more work with the metal joining machine.

Today will be cleaning up the bodged up brake lines, as a result of the previous removal of the servos, and the need to re-route the rear brake line to clear the new motor mount. Will also mod the pedal box for better access, as I am replacing the brake master cylinder with a 11/16" unit from a Datsun 1200/Sunny. Though purchased some time ago, I procured the new master cylinder on e-bay, from a company called Under Car, which vends components from Centric.

[Gordon Sauer]

I thought about replacing mine when I was at that point with things. I remember looking on the Internet under charcoal canister's and tons of pictures came up and there were some that very closely resembled the opening points on the one that's in the car. What I couldn't find was one that was the exact size. However in your explanation it appears you're certainly flexible in that area and it's the functionality which could definitely be duplicated by ones currently available for other cars. Gordon Sauer

[mbell]

Is therea reason you are keeping the evap system?

Why not just do away with it?

[prezoom]

Gordon, I think I will spend some time on RockAuto. Just might find something from a Metro Geo/Suzuki Swift or the like.

[Sea Ranch]

I personally want to add one because of petrol/gas fumes in the garage. Is there another reason perhaps?

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I appears the only venting to the fuel tank is via the charcoal canister, on the 1972 year model. I seems to me, that this is an easy way to vent the tank and not get the dreaded fuel smell in the garage. Right now, with the vent tube well sealed, there is no smell, other than the currently open end of the fuel line.

As an aside, this vehicle sustained a significant fire in the number one throat of the carburetor. In all my years, I have never seen the inner venture of the aux venturi melted. The fire damage was restricted to that single throat, with no other damage.

I have some concerns with a back fire through the carburetor, with connecting tubing from the carbs/airbox to the canister. Would hate to have the expansion tank on the fuel tank turn into a bomb, though the thrust forward, only momentary, would be exciting. I know there are solenoid valves that control access to the canister, but am not sure how they operate.

Rock Auto turned out to be a bust. But, looking at e-bay, the canister from the Miata/MX5 appears to be quite small and may be able to be located below the carburetors which, would make a tidy package. When the temperature drops to a livable number, it's off to Pick A Part.

[mbell]

I have a none federal car that I did the breather mod to and since then I haven't had any smell problems.

The Evap system seems a lot of hassle/weight to a dress the problem to me. If I was still having problems I'd be looking to fit a breather valve instead. For example:

http://www.competitionsupplies.com/fuel ... her-valves

Will allow air in but won't let the fumes out unless the pressure is too high. Also serves as roll over protection.

[prezoom]

Good idea. It would simplify things. I have used these for years on the fuel cells on my various race cars, but for some reason, their use escaped me. My only concern would be parking the car in the sun and having the fuel expand which, could possibly force fuel into the carburetors. Though I cannot remember this happening on the race cars. I have a local business that stocks these, will drop by this morning.

[mbell]

My only concern would be parking the car in the sun and having the fuel expand which, could possibly force fuel into the carburetors.

I believe you can get ones that that serve as both air intake and vent. Like this specific one:
http://www.newton-equipment.com/tank-ve ... -tpv8.html

They allow air to pass "in" under a small amount for vacuum, so as fuel is used air can easily enter. They seal under pressure to stop venting to the atmosphere until a certain pressure is reached at which point they will vent. So most of the time the tank will be in effect sealed, but if left in sun or somewhere that causes an increased pressure the tank will vent to the atmosphere. Hopefully this wouldn't occur often and not while in the garage but only outside.

One of these coupled to the larger tank vent to the filler neck, which I believe is standard on the federal setup, should provide a good setup in my opinion. But as mentioned I haven't tested it out.

Cheers,

Mark

[gus]

Every passenger car in the US since 1971 has had evap control, and it is not a problem. I think the plumbing is not esoteric and parts while not perfectly original are no doubt available.

Plus it is a non horsepower sapping emission control and stink solution.

I am sure a similar vintage canister from a common car will do the job.