Newbie with a couple of 'engine in and out, questions

[captainchaos]

I've only had my elan+2 for 3 weeks but the tired nature of certain areas of the car, the desire to have an engine rebuild (30k in 17 years), a strong feeling that the clutch has an issue and the general grime from a succession of oil leaks has led me into having the motor out.
On my caterham I prefer to replace the engine and gearbox separately but on stripping down I had 2 problems....
1) access to the righthand bolt at the top of the bell housing was difficult and I cannot see me getting a torque wrench onto it when it goes back in...is there enough room for the engine/gearbox to be dragged forward slightly to give me more room?

2) removing the plastic fuel pipe from the pump was tricky as the turning action of the union just twisted the pipe leaving it to spring back as soon as the spanner was released! I ended up removing the pump from the engine with fuel going everywhere... Is there something wrong with the pipe union? And will I need to re- attach this pipe before putting the pump back on the engine?

Thanks for any input!

[john.p.clegg]

Captain
1) you don't need a torque wrench...it's not rocket science..a nice flat open or ring spanner will suffice..just guess the poundage..

the engine will pull forward quite a bit with eveything disconnected to give you access if you insist.

2) depends on what type of pipe you have fitted to the pump input..plastic is well known for "seizing on" to the copper/brass...I'd just cut it off and replace with a short piece of someting more pliable/flexible..

John

[rgh0]

I always split the engine and gear box for removal and replacement as I find it easier than taking them out as a complete unit, some people prefer to remove as a unit -- it can be done both ways . The Plus 2 access to the bell housing bolts is certainly easier than in the Elan as the body shape gives better access in the firewall and foot well region. I don't use a torque wrench on these bell housing bolts on reassembly but tighten by feel as there is not room for a typical toque wrench and socket, this works for me

The plastic fuel pipe compression nut should spin freely on the tube and olive assembly so it can be undone and retightened without twisting the tube. If it is binding then you may need to replace the nut and olive. The Plus 2 tank is above the fuel pump so you need to drain the tank or disconnect and block off the tank at the rear where you have better access before disconnecting at the pump.

cheers
Rohan

[captainchaos]

thanks guys...

no doubt there will be more questions along the way!

Ive still to sort some dashboard and window issues along with stripping and cleaning all corners of the car in terms of hubs, brakes and wishbones.

One other problem I've had is one the spinners...somehow it seized on and is taking a lot of pain to get it to rotate. I've got all the other wheels off....I can't imagine it has been cross threaded all the way up to the wheel and it had 4 new tyres fitted only 9 months ago (i've only had the car 3 weeks).

I've left it to get the engine out as my builder was pressing me but I might be resorting to removing it by grinder as the amount of bashing it is taking to get it to turn (now about 4 threads) will be doing more damage to bushes than spinner!

Thanks

[billwill]

the amount of bashing it is taking to get it to turn (now about 4 threads) will be doing more damage to bushes than spinner!

Thanks

To save on damaging wheel bearings I never hit my spinners really hard unless the weight of the car is on the tyre on the ground.


Some easing oil might help.

[Harvey]

Captain,

Do yourself a favor and buy one of Sarto's knockoff spinner removal tools so you won't have to bash your chrome spinners again. The tool may even help with wheel removal because you can put lots of torque on the spinner with a 1/2" socket and a breaker bar. E-mail him at [email protected] to find out if he has a British agent. Otherwise, Dave Bean carries them in the US.

Lee