Plus 2 engine removal

PostPost by: jono » Wed Feb 01, 2017 3:52 pm

I need to remove the engine to fit my new close ratio gearbox.

I've always split the engine and box in the car but just wondering can it be removed in one lump?

It's a spyder chassis with the removable cross rail.

Cheers

Jon
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PostPost by: mbell » Wed Feb 01, 2017 7:10 pm

jono wrote:I've always split the engine and box in the car but just wondering can it be removed in one lump?


Yes. I split mine to remove but fitted it as a unit. Should be easier job on the Spyder chassis as don't need to get the bell housing around/through the engine mount brackets.
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PostPost by: Foxie » Wed Feb 01, 2017 7:18 pm

It's no problem, I find it easier to remove/refit in one piece, with starter & exhaust manifold in place.
Just remove the engine mounts from the chassis. :)
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PostPost by: jono » Thu Feb 02, 2017 8:32 am

Thanks chaps.

I have a 2 post lift now which should make matters easier.

Jon
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PostPost by: stugilmour » Sun Feb 05, 2017 2:06 pm

Jon, I did a bit of a checklist style write up here that might help....

lotus-twincam-f39/pulling-the-engine-transmission-spyder-frame-t25077.html

I have an MT75 transmission, so some differences with your rear mount, driveshaft and shifter I expect.

One item I have read here is to drain your stock transmission first or the oil will run out when you tilt up the unit at the front.

For planning the job out, the biggest issue I had was tight clearance to the ceiling as the whole unit has to be pretty high to clear things with the required tilt. I have always ended up doing the job outside on the driveway and rolling the car back in the garage after the unit is removed. Make sure the driveshaft (if not removed) is adequately supported when rolling the car, or easy to damage brake lines, fuel lines , etc.

HTH

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PostPost by: billwill » Sun Feb 05, 2017 7:59 pm

From my experiences in a 2-seater, the engine & gearbox have to be lifted until they are nearly vertical, then in my case I used to rotate the whole dangling engine so that I could lift the tail of the gearbox just clear of the front of the engine compartment, then get my friends to push the car backwards until the car was well clear of the engine and it was over clear floor, then I could lower it onto a rolling dolly.

As mentioned above all the gearbox oil will run out through the output shaft hole if you forgot to drain it first.

I used to have an eight-string nylon-rope hoist, but now I have a proper chain hoist which would make it easier next time {if that occurs before I move house} :D The hoist is fastened to a fixed point in the ceiling of my garage.
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PostPost by: TeeJay » Sun Feb 05, 2017 9:02 pm

To help remove my engine, I had already purchased from Machine Mart the Clarke 1 tonne folding crane.
To assist lifting at an angle I purchased the Clarke Load Leveller. It made life so much simpler.

Link: - https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cll500-load-leveller/

The Crane was positioned at the front of the car, as the engine and gear box come forward, the Leveller was used to safely tilt the engine/gearbox, slowly moving the Crane away from the car and lifting upwards.

To work on the engine I used the Clarke Engine Stand.

I have no association with Machine Mart, just a satisfied customer that waits for the ?No Vat? offers and then makes any purchase.

Hopefully, if I need to remove again, life will be even easier now I have a MaxJak 2 post lift.
:D
I don?t think with the Lotus Galvanised chassis; even though it has a removable cross brace; it would be possible to use the lift and leave the engine/gearbox on the ground. So my Clarke equipment would be required.
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