1970 Elan S4 SE DHC ground up

PostPost by: dpchamp87 » Wed Jan 27, 2010 10:00 pm

So I just became an Elan owner again (1970 S4 SE DHC) after a gap of 27 years (1971 S4 SE FHC/1969 S4 SE DHC/1973 +2S 4 speed). The car needs a complete restoration and this site has given me some great ideas and guidance. One subject which I can't seem to see any threads on is the following:

Assuming the car is to be completely stripped down and will be re-painted is it best to have the body painted off the chassis or to fit the body to the chassis after all the mechanical wiork is done and then re-paint the car?

I can see props and cons both ways but I am leaning towards painting on the chassis as it seems to me that there is a good chance of damaging the new paint job on the way back from the shop and/or in fitting the body.

Looking forward to feedback.
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Thu Jan 28, 2010 10:21 am

When I did my elan (almost 30 years ago now :!: :!: ) I mounted the body on the rolling chassis to enable easy handling by paint shop and minimise risk of body damage.

I had done all the structural repairs to the body and the paint shop only needed to do surface prep and paint so no need for access to areas covered by chassis. I painted the engine bay myself before mounting on chassis.



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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Thu Jan 28, 2010 10:28 am

With a Body on paint job the Paint shop will make a big mess of all your shiny mechanical bits.
They'll want the Doors, Bonnet & Boot lid off the car & they will be happier being able to lift just the Body up to a more comfortable working height.
Whilst all that's being done you can also work in comfort on the chassis, suspension etc. etc.
There's no good argument to do it any other way unless you find it totally impossible to get the Body only to the paint shop.

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PostPost by: rgh0 » Thu Jan 28, 2010 10:43 am

my paint shop masked off the wheel arches and bonnet area and inside car so no overspray on body or mechanical parts. I kept the doors, boot bonnet separate for them to paint

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PostPost by: nebogipfel » Thu Jan 28, 2010 4:54 pm

I would suggest that if you intend taking the body off the chassis then paint it while its off. It's much easier than trying to mask everything up.

You can always tape bubble wrap onto the exposed areas such as wheel arches to minimise the chance of damage while fitting the body.
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Thu Jan 28, 2010 5:22 pm

It is all down to how YOU wish to do it. I do tend to agree with John, although I would because that was how I did it. As John said there is no reason at all why not. I took my car's body from Fife in Scotland to Option 1 (bromsgrove nr Birmingham) in a borrowed pick up. Went back about 14 weeks later and brought it back up in the same pickup. With good care you should not have any damage. Whilst the completely stripped body was away I started on the rebuild. I had the chassis rolling and awaiting the body when it was ready. I had EVERYTHING to do. I got away with nothing.

Up to you but If I was doing it again ( :shock: ) I would do it the same way. It allows superb access etc. I sat for a day or two in my engine bay soldering up all the connections for eg.. Very difficult to do normally.

You are only going to do this once (to this car!) hopefully. Full strip down and I do mean FULL strip down in my humble opinion is the correct way. But as I always say.. To each their own...

You can follow my escapades in 'New Car arriving' post about a year or so ago now.. Great fun! I had a blast. I blew a flaming big hole in my bank A/C... :lol: :lol:

Best wishes and good luck with it. You have come to the right place for help and advice. Not to mention councelling :lol: :lol:

:lol:

Just have fun and enjoy....... And keep us all posted..

Alex B.... 8)
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PostPost by: dpchamp87 » Thu Jan 28, 2010 7:00 pm

Great feedback - thanks. I am certainly going to remove the body and fully strip the car (believe me it needs it) but the question is whether once I have the chassis/motor/tranny etc all refurbished do I then 1) fit the body back as is and have it painted or 2) do I take the body separately to the shop to have it painted and then fit it to the by then perfect chassis etc?

In the case of 2) I am really worried that I risk cracks in the newly painted bodywork as I tighten it onto the chassis and that's assuming I get the painted shell back and fitted to the chassis without damaging it. The only risk inherent in 1) seems to be overspray which I am not too concerned about as the guy doing the repaint is very careful.

Of course it has snowed in CT today so it looks as if I will have to wait another week to pick up the car.
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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Thu Jan 28, 2010 7:39 pm

dpchamp87 wrote:Great feedback - thanks. I am certainly going to remove the body and fully strip the car (believe me it needs it) but the question is whether once I have the chassis/motor/tranny etc all refurbished do I then 1) fit the body back as is and have it painted or 2) do I take the body separately to the shop to have it painted and then fit it to the by then perfect chassis etc?

In the case of 2) I am really worried that I risk cracks in the newly painted bodywork as I tighten it onto the chassis and that's assuming I get the painted shell back and fitted to the chassis without damaging it. The only risk inherent in 1) seems to be overspray which I am not too concerned about as the guy doing the repaint is very careful.

Of course it has snowed in CT today so it looks as if I will have to wait another week to pick up the car.


I wasn't really referring to overspray when I wrote about messing up all your shiny bits, but all of the dust that is created when preparing the Body for paint. It just gets everywhere.
I think that you should forget your worries about cracking the Body; it's how the Car was assembled originally & I've not read of anyone on this Forum having such problems.
If in doubt ask your Paint Shop which option they'd prefer, that should answer your question from the Horses Mouth as they say.

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John
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Thu Jan 28, 2010 7:45 pm

Your body work if properly repaired and painted. (various companies will do this very well and give you a warranty) should not be that fragile. With care, you are unlikely to damage it just refitting it. If you think that it will 'crack' just by tightening onto the chassis, I would suggest that properly done this is just NOT a risk. If it were so, I would give it 5 Min's on the road before it was wrecked. I got a 24 month warranty with mine. Not wear and tear etc. But g/teed not to craze / crack. If it does it goes back to option 1 for rectification.

Most if not all of the really good companies will prefer to have the body off the frame.It is MUCH easier to do the repairs and painting properly. Call them! Ask the questions. The engine compartment of my car was superb when I got it back. Just not possible to do the same job with an engine in the way (for eg).... You are going to have the body off anyway! Why not send it for resto then???? If you were not removing the body etc... Well that's a different matter. I would then def' send it as a rolling /driving car.

Try talking to Frank at option 1... http://www.option1sportscars.co.uk And I'm not on commission. Unfortunately :?

Whilst it is away do the chassis etc. Re-unite the two when you are ready.. Body on trestles is a great way to do a fair mount of the refit. New loom? hanging the doors? etc... Easy job!

To each their own though..


Alex B..... 8)
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PostPost by: garyeanderson » Thu Jan 28, 2010 7:48 pm

I have had a few painted and all needed every last nut, bolt, rivit, screw and what ever else removed. Your decription is a bit lacking as to the condition of the 40 year old fiberglass Elan. Either way they are a lot of work. I have had them painted off the body, papered and masked the newly painted shell and then blacked out the underside boot and area under the bonnet. the shell bolted back on without issues. Use spacers if there is a gap between the chassis and body, do not just tighten until tight. What kind of conditions is the chassis, sounds like you are in New England (snowing here as I write this). I think you really need to get the Elan home and get the body off before you can say which way to do it. If you find that the chassis is better off being replaced, you will need to mount the body twice. Come up to Scituate if you want to look at some work in progress (its not progressing any more) so you can wait for better weather. 100miles or 2 hours from the CT/RI border.

Gary
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Thu Jan 28, 2010 7:57 pm

Sorry. I thought you were in the UK. The consequence of minimalistic profile information.

Why not just say where and who you are? Do we call you DP? 87? or just champs?? :?

Beats me!

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PostPost by: dpchamp87 » Thu Jan 28, 2010 8:19 pm

Two reasons I am buying the car:

1) CA car for almost all its life and the chassis is in really good condition. I had it up on a lift for over an hour poking around. Vacuum holds too.
2) The motor was just rebuilt 500 miles ago (properly) by Mike at Stonebridge Sports and Classics.

However, the body work is horrible but no accident damage as far as we can tell. Someone did a junk respray a few years ago and huge chunks of paint are flaking off. There are very few spiders or cracks though.

Seems like speaking to the body guy is my best course (why didn't I think of that!)

Gary, I may well take you up on your offer - thanks.

Alex, sorry will fill in the profile now but name is David and I am in CT although originally from Dumfriesshire in your fair country.
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PostPost by: crannyr » Thu Jan 28, 2010 8:57 pm

David,
I live in Grafton Ma, just south of Worcester and am in the middle of a frame off restoration on a 72 Elan Sprint. Body is off and at my body shop, new frame has been powder coated and running gear is in place. This is my 4th frame off so if I can be of help feel free to drop me a note or stop by and see my current project or my 3 previous efforts all in this area.
I would agree with the others that a frame off makes a lot of sense if for no other reason than to discover all the hidden flaws (areas of the frame not visable or serviceable until exposed, hard brake lines, rotted frame padding), and easier fiberglass repair and suspension reassemby. Care in mating the refurbished body to the frame is not as stressfull as it might sound and should not put the refinished body at risk is carefull.
Best of luck with your project.

Rick
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Thu Jan 28, 2010 9:43 pm

Hello David,
That's better eh?

Cool choice of car. Best of luck with it. Please keep us updated with the progress.

Scotland in winter!!! Nah! I am going to go off on and book a cruise! Bahamas sound like a good idea.

Cheers. have fun with it.

Alex B....
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PostPost by: dpchamp87 » Thu Jan 28, 2010 10:28 pm

I will post some 'before' pictures once the snow melts and the roads dry sufficiently to drive it the 30 miles from Mike's garage. The last full restoration I did was on my Lotus 69 Formula Ford so it will be interesting to see how this one compares. Lots more stuff can be wrong on a road car but almost everything does seem to work on it.

The one sure thing is the cost will be over budget!

David
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