trailering Elan

[Everett Stephens <ever]

I plan to trailer my 70 S4 SE DHC to LOG this year.... I drove my M100
to Atlanta last year, and did not have enough space to bring all the
junk I wanted back in my M100 (AND my wife!), so I'm taking the Yukon
this time!

Questions are:
It has been suggested to me to tie wheels down, not suspension.
comments?

Also, where do I need to put towels in cockpit to absorb water
leakage? I did not figure a way to keep a cover on at 70mph, so I
anticipate the worst... rain!

Everett
Louisville KY

["David & Virgini]

Everett, you asked:

Absolutely, otherwise wheel bearings are damaged.

50 lbs because with a single axle it wants to sway.

I have a 14ft X 8 ft Utility trailer with 3 ft sides. We had a Vinyl cover
made and it completely conceals the Seven and Elan. The top or windsheild
tents up the cover so rain does not puddle. The car goes front on first
with 2x12 ramps. The front wheels are held down by harnesses designed for
the pupose and cranks the tires down hard. The rear end is held with
motorcyle tie down belts with buckles and hooks to loops in the floor.

Otherwise car collectors tell me not to cover a car with a tarp, just let
the wind and rain destroy your wax job and redo it when you arrive. I hate
the effect of turbulence and water on the car when using rental car trailer.
At least put up some kind of barrier on the front of the trailer where the
worst tubulence and damage occurs. It you tie a tarp over the car, it will
whip in the wind and wear through paint and fabric.

I once had this idea: cover the car in a tyvek cover, wrap it tightly with
shrink wrap plastic like they bundle up and tie on at our local lumber yard,
then put a tarp over that.

I dream of owning a completely enclosed trailer like the big (race) guys
have.

David
1966 Seven S2
1966 Elan S2
1963 Elite S2 project nearing completion!

[abstamaria]

David,

You advised:



I use tire harnesses like you do for trailering the Elan, but on all four
wheels. But why would wheel bearings be damaged if the suspension or frame
were strapped down instead? I thought that the sprung weight being bounced
about might be hard on the suspension, and that this argued for strapping
the frame down. (Didn't Jim Clark break a spring on his race car while on
trailer to some European event?)



Where do you attach the loops to? To the fiberglass?

I have been puzzling over these points for some time, and am glad the
question was raised. This is the benefit of a dedicated list. Thank you,
Jeff.

Many thanks, and regards.

Andres
Manila

P.S. I decided to convert an old Isuzu "flat-low" truck (with 13" rear
wheels) to a covered transporter. The rear end of the bed is 24 inches from
the ground, so the problem is how to minimize the length and weight of the
ramps. The rear door folds down and is a ramp in itself (albeit only 6'
long). Suggestions would be appreciated.

[davidcaley at silverlink.]

Andres, you wrote:



and trucks for transport. I think because it is faster, easier and cheaper.

Immagine the strain on a wheel bearing with the weight of the car being
increased with cranking down the frame onto the bed and the wheel bearing
not turning. You fracture one roller and score the race. Tie down the
wheel, and the car bounces on the springs of the trailer and the car. Much
less stress on the wheel bearing, at least thats my thought.

I admit I tie down the rear "axle" what ever that is (Seven is solid, Elan I
use wishbone, Elite same). But I don't rachet them down. I depend on the
front wheel harness to stabilize the car front to back, side to side and up
and down. The rear only keeps the car from jumping sideways and hitting the
trailer sides. Using a cross pattern I try to keep the car from moving, not
hold it down.

Real "Guys" tie down all four wheels with harnesses. I find it too tedius
to loop over the rear wheels, I guess. Mounting the harness cleats to the
floor were also a problem.

Interesting problems here. I'll have to ask Randall Fehr his views.



One can buy real neat alloy ramps for about $300, so I use 2 X 12 timbers
coated with paint and sand thrown in while it was wet. They hook onto the
trailer bed with angle irons bolted to the 2 X 12, essentially forming a lip
to catch the trailer frame. I had a dropped axle on the trailer so I only
have about a foot to go up. I will have to wince on the Elite (project
nearing completion - comes home this week from Randall Fehr. I have three
foot high sides and coupe doors will not open! There are times I raise the
front of the trailer up onto jack stands and the bed of the trailer and ramp
form a continuous line, some times the transmission drain plug hits bottom.
I'd like to see you jack up your Izuzu! Longer ramps are the answer I
guess. Mine are so long (12 ft) that I have to prop the middle with a block
to keep them from bending so much.

David

[rsfehr]

I have a trailer without suspension, so I lash the car down by the tires
leaving the car's suspension free to work. I use four ratcheting straps
with rubber sleeves at top of the loops with a protrusion molded in which
keeps the strap located on the tread (won't slip off). Purchased from Racer
Wholesale.

I have heard many rationalizations for not trailering and/or not lashing
down one way or another but suspect they are based on unique occurrences. I
seriously doubt that wheel bearings are affected by any of the methods
proposed so far. Seems to me that one's method evolves from equipment and
materials on hand, type of car, length of trip, and success or failure...

Randall
Seattle

[rsfehr]

At 10:55 6/30/99 -0000, Andres wrote:

I also would try not to strap down the rear a-arms of the Elite or Elan. If
necessary, only at the far inner or outer ends, making certain that the
strap won't be able to slide toward the middle of the member.

-Randall

[abstamaria]

Thank you for your reply, David.

Actually, the easy way to jack up the Isuzu is to fit hydraulic posts
optional on the model, which jack up the front (the original purpose being
to allow for easy tire changes, I am told). Or possibly the bags that
inflate with exhaust gas and lift the front up. Either solution is too
complicated, so I am hopeful that the total 12' ramps will be sufficient.
Both the 23 and the Elan have 3-1/2" ground clearance.

Let me know what Randall thinks on the strap-down issue (I worry about
bending the rear arms, and so use harnesses on all 4 wheels.

Regards,

Andres
Manila

[rodbean]

Randall Fehr wrote:



I agree with this. The differences in tie-down methods are in the noise, so
to speak.

There is one thing that can cause a problem, however. Lashing down from
suspension components, if you're not careful where you grab them, can bend
them causing imprecision in your nice settings.

Rod

[BenL]

Like most of the other respondents, I have tie-down straps that go
around the tires. The bed of the trailer is 1/4" steel with holes
every few inches, so I can attach the hooks for the straps any place
that's handy. As far as ramps go, I don't have any. The trailer has
a hydralic ram in front (manually pumped) that tilts the whole bed of
the trailer. The trailer came from Brian James Trailers in England.

To get the car on the trailer, I can either drive up on to the
trailer, or I can use the winch. To use the winch, I wrap a pair of
axle straps around the front of the frame and then attach the hooks to
the ends of a 2' bar and the winch cable attaches to the middle of the
bar. The bar is very useful for pulling various cars onto the
trailer.


|
| winch cable
|
o
~============~ 2' bar (1" square tubing, with hooks)
I I
I I axle straps
I I

Elan

---Ben Levy (who hopefully won't need to trailer my Elan for a while)

[Richy-dick]

----- Original Message -----
From: Benjamin Levy (hedge spice) <[email protected]>

Is Hedge Spice one of the grubbier Spice Girls?

[abstamaria]

The July issue of Road & Track carries an informative note on strapping down
trailered cars (wheels vs. chassis) in "Technical Correspondence." Very
timely, considering our recent correspondence on the matter.

Regards to all.

Andres
Type 45 DHC
Manila