Pedal Box Arragement

[kstrutt1]

While we are on the issue of pedal boxes, the one on my +2 appears to
have been modified, a square hole has been cut in the lop giving easy
access to the pedal linkage etc, this has then been covered with a
bolt on plate, as the workmanship is rather rough I am assuming this
is not original, anyone else seen anyhing similar?

Kevin +2 S130



--- In lotuselan@y..., Steve Porritt <stevep@b...> wrote:

cylinder is 0.75" when it should be 0.7" or so I'm told by the parts
department at Paul Matty's. Apparently seals for the 0.7" were
unavailable for some time and so 0.75" cylinders were used instead.
As the bore on

0.75" cylinder is off of or have the Lucas/Girling number for the
seals?

spring not sure how long that will work for but it seems OK. The
master cylinders were OK but from previous experience, when the slave
cylinder seals are replaced the extra strain on the master cylinder
seals causes

in the brake master cylinder at the same time. Of course the pem that
holds the brake master cylinder started turning and I had to hacksaw
off the bolt. Having seen where the cylinders are mounted on the s1 -
s4


_

it seized (a common cause of rebuilding the pedal box) or is it
literally welded ?

accelerator, left to right looking from the driving seat.

shaft and the box was rusted out.

cylinder was lower due to a shorter lever arm. I guess this was to
ease the pedal effort on the clutch, althought why it was changed on
later cars I don't know. The longer throw is 3", the shorter is 2
1/16".

wire" throttle pedal, and drilled access holes for fitting the
clevis pins. Also you can see the alternative under-frame I made up
which stiffens and strengthens the mounting of the pedal box in the
fibreglass.

[Dag-Henning]

Have done similar to my own car ; cut a small hole in front of the chassis-plate ( LHD ) to improve access to nuts & bolts. Small plate w/ two screws closes it nicely.
Dag
----- Original Message -----


Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Digest Number 875


While we are on the issue of pedal boxes, the one on my +2 appears to
have been modified, a square hole has been cut in the lop giving easy
access to the pedal linkage etc, this has then been covered with a
bolt on plate, as the workmanship is rather rough I am assuming this
is not original, anyone else seen anyhing similar?

Kevin +2 S130



--- In lotuselan@y..., Steve Porritt <stevep@b...> wrote:

cylinder is 0.75" when it should be 0.7" or so I'm told by the parts
department at Paul Matty's. Apparently seals for the 0.7" were
unavailable for some time and so 0.75" cylinders were used instead.
As the bore on

0.75" cylinder is off of or have the Lucas/Girling number for the
seals?

spring not sure how long that will work for but it seems OK. The
master cylinders were OK but from previous experience, when the slave
cylinder seals are replaced the extra strain on the master cylinder
seals causes

in the brake master cylinder at the same time. Of course the pem that
holds the brake master cylinder started turning and I had to hacksaw
off the bolt. Having seen where the cylinders are mounted on the s1 -
s4


_

it seized (a common cause of rebuilding the pedal box) or is it
literally welded ?

accelerator, left to right looking from the driving seat.

shaft and the box was rusted out.

cylinder was lower due to a shorter lever arm. I guess this was to
ease the pedal effort on the clutch, althought why it was changed on
later cars I don't know. The longer throw is 3", the shorter is 2
1/16".

wire" throttle pedal, and drilled access holes for fitting the
clevis pins. Also you can see the alternative under-frame I made up
which stiffens and strengthens the mounting of the pedal box in the
fibreglass.

[Dave50/1]

Kevin: A PO used a heat wrench (blow torch) to punch two holes in my pedal
box cover. They are directly over the cotter pins for both the brake and
clutch master cyl. The craftsmanship leaves much to be desired, so I will
clean up the holes, fix aluminum cover(s), and have the box powder coated.
I also plan on fabricating a reinforcement for the fiberglass where the box
mounts.

Dave
'72 +2S 130


----- Original Message -----


Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 6:43 AM
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Digest Number 875


While we are on the issue of pedal boxes, the one on my +2 appears to
have been modified, a square hole has been cut in the lop giving easy
access to the pedal linkage etc, this has then been covered with a
bolt on plate, as the workmanship is rather rough I am assuming this
is not original, anyone else seen anyhing similar?

Kevin +2 S130



--- In lotuselan@y..., Steve Porritt <stevep@b...> wrote:

cylinder is 0.75" when it should be 0.7" or so I'm told by the parts
department at Paul Matty's. Apparently seals for the 0.7" were
unavailable for some time and so 0.75" cylinders were used instead.
As the bore on

0.75" cylinder is off of or have the Lucas/Girling number for the
seals?

spring not sure how long that will work for but it seems OK. The
master cylinders were OK but from previous experience, when the slave
cylinder seals are replaced the extra strain on the master cylinder
seals causes

in the brake master cylinder at the same time. Of course the pem that
holds the brake master cylinder started turning and I had to hacksaw
off the bolt. Having seen where the cylinders are mounted on the s1 -
s4


_

it seized (a common cause of rebuilding the pedal box) or is it
literally welded ?

accelerator, left to right looking from the driving seat.

shaft and the box was rusted out.

cylinder was lower due to a shorter lever arm. I guess this was to
ease the pedal effort on the clutch, althought why it was changed on
later cars I don't know. The longer throw is 3", the shorter is 2
1/16".

wire" throttle pedal, and drilled access holes for fitting the
clevis pins. Also you can see the alternative under-frame I made up
which stiffens and strengthens the mounting of the pedal box in the
fibreglass.









reserved.

["Richard Hinds"]

Kevin,
I've seen several +2's with a similar modification, some better
than others!
I've purchased some "riv-nuts" (I think that's what they're called) with the
intention of doing something similar, but I've been unable to locate a tool
for the riv-nuts!
I've got two pedal boxes, as my original had the pedals rust-welded to the
shaft, but the replacement is almost as bad. I inteed to make one good one
from the two, and fit a removeable panel, in case I need to access the
clevis pins in the future.


----- Original Message -----


Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 12:43 PM
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Digest Number 875


While we are on the issue of pedal boxes, the one on my +2 appears to
have been modified, a square hole has been cut in the lop giving easy
access to the pedal linkage etc, this has then been covered with a
bolt on plate, as the workmanship is rather rough I am assuming this
is not original, anyone else seen anyhing similar?

Kevin +2 S130



--- In lotuselan@y..., Steve Porritt <stevep@b...> wrote:

cylinder is 0.75" when it should be 0.7" or so I'm told by the parts
department at Paul Matty's. Apparently seals for the 0.7" were
unavailable for some time and so 0.75" cylinders were used instead.
As the bore on

0.75" cylinder is off of or have the Lucas/Girling number for the
seals?

spring not sure how long that will work for but it seems OK. The
master cylinders were OK but from previous experience, when the slave
cylinder seals are replaced the extra strain on the master cylinder
seals causes

in the brake master cylinder at the same time. Of course the pem that
holds the brake master cylinder started turning and I had to hacksaw
off the bolt. Having seen where the cylinders are mounted on the s1 -
s4


_

it seized (a common cause of rebuilding the pedal box) or is it
literally welded ?

accelerator, left to right looking from the driving seat.

shaft and the box was rusted out.

cylinder was lower due to a shorter lever arm. I guess this was to
ease the pedal effort on the clutch, althought why it was changed on
later cars I don't know. The longer throw is 3", the shorter is 2
1/16".

wire" throttle pedal, and drilled access holes for fitting the
clevis pins. Also you can see the alternative under-frame I made up
which stiffens and strengthens the mounting of the pedal box in the
fibreglass.









reserved.

[paul_adamson]

er.....
Mine was like that. I hasten to add that I didn't make the modification.
I wonder if you have my car?
Does the registration start with VNL....?

-----Original Message-----
From: ***@***.***lto:***@***.***
Sent: 03 September 2001 12:44
To: ***@***.***
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Digest Number 875


While we are on the issue of pedal boxes, the one on my +2 appears to
have been modified, a square hole has been cut in the lop giving easy
access to the pedal linkage etc, this has then been covered with a
bolt on plate, as the workmanship is rather rough I am assuming this
is not original, anyone else seen anyhing similar?

Kevin +2 S130



--- In lotuselan@y..., Steve Porritt <stevep@b...> wrote:

cylinder is 0.75" when it should be 0.7" or so I'm told by the parts
department at Paul Matty's. Apparently seals for the 0.7" were
unavailable for some time and so 0.75" cylinders were used instead.
As the bore on

0.75" cylinder is off of or have the Lucas/Girling number for the
seals?

spring not sure how long that will work for but it seems OK. The
master cylinders were OK but from previous experience, when the slave
cylinder seals are replaced the extra strain on the master cylinder
seals causes

in the brake master cylinder at the same time. Of course the pem that
holds the brake master cylinder started turning and I had to hacksaw
off the bolt. Having seen where the cylinders are mounted on the s1 -
s4


_

it seized (a common cause of rebuilding the pedal box) or is it
literally welded ?

accelerator, left to right looking from the driving seat.

shaft and the box was rusted out.

cylinder was lower due to a shorter lever arm. I guess this was to
ease the pedal effort on the clutch, althought why it was changed on
later cars I don't know. The longer throw is 3", the shorter is 2
1/16".

wire" throttle pedal, and drilled access holes for fitting the
clevis pins. Also you can see the alternative under-frame I made up
which stiffens and strengthens the mounting of the pedal box in the
fibreglass.

[Foxie]

Dave,

The pedal box mounting on a flat area of fibreglass is not the most rigid of designs. In my opinion, reinforcing a flat area of fibreglass is not the best way of dealing with this. I improved things by fabricating a lower frame from 1" x 1" x 1/16" angle, cut and bent at my local sheet metal shop. I enclose photo of the subframe. I cut the front flange as wide as possible, as it is mounted in the angle of the vertical section where the steering column comes through. I extended the side angles so they came back to where the horizontal section turns up to the firewall under the bonnet catch. The result is a pedal box that is very solid.

I used a 20mm hole cutter to cut access holes in the side panels of the padel box for access to clevis pins, and use rubber grommets to close them off. I've always found it less trouble to remove the pedal box when changing master cylinders.

Best wishes,

Sean Murray
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Salls
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 1:53 PM
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Digest Number 875


Kevin: A PO used a heat wrench (blow torch) to punch two holes in my pedal
box cover. They are directly over the cotter pins for both the brake and
clutch master cyl. The craftsmanship leaves much to be desired, so I will
clean up the holes, fix aluminum cover(s), and have the box powder coated.
I also plan on fabricating a reinforcement for the fiberglass where the box
mounts.

Dave
'72 +2S 130

[ddddumas]

Riv-nuts and the installation tools are available from both Pegassus and from
J.C. Whitney <www.jcwhitney.com>

[kstrutt1]

Paul,
Not the same car mine begins with BAK---- but from the response it
seems a common mod(though wouldn't recomend the blowtourch approach
especially in light of Steve's recent loss).
On the plus side is must have been this way for a long time with no
adverse effects.
I have fabricated a neat alloy plate to cover the mess, and one day I
will take the pedal box out and sort it properly.

Kevin +2S130




)--- In lotuselan@y..., "Paul Adamson" <paul@a...> wrote:

[Stevie-Heathie]

Hi all

Cuting an access hole like this in the top of the pedal box is a really good
idea if you need to get the linkages inside.

Even with the box out of the car it is almost impossible to reach the
linkages. Both my hands and my girlfriend's hands were too big, so I had to
commandeer a random kid who was playing in our street to insert a split pin
a couple of months back!!

More details on +2 fire ( to follow.

Steve

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

While we are on the issue of pedal boxes, the one on my +2 appears to
have been modified, a square hole has been cut in the lop giving easy
access to the pedal linkage etc, this has then been covered with a
bolt on plate, as the workmanship is rather rough I am assuming this
is not original, anyone else seen anyhing similar?

Kevin +2 S130

[Elan45]

I need a LHD pedal box complete w/ pedals, for a +2S so that I can convert mine from RHD.

Roger


I've seen several +2's with a similar modification, some better
than others!
I've purchased some "riv-nuts" (I think that's what they're called) with the
intention of doing something similar, but I've been unable to locate a tool
for the riv-nuts!
I've got two pedal boxes, as my original had the pedals rust-welded to the
shaft, but the replacement is almost as bad. I inteed to make one good one
from the two, and fit a removeable panel, in case I need to access the
clevis pins in the future.


----- Original Message -----


Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 12:43 PM
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Digest Number 875


While we are on the issue of pedal boxes, the one on my +2 appears to
have been modified, a square hole has been cut in the lop giving easy
access to the pedal linkage etc, this has then been covered with a
bolt on plate, as the workmanship is rather rough I am assuming this
is not original, anyone else seen anyhing similar?

Kevin +2 S130



--- In lotuselan@y..., Steve Porritt <stevep@b...> wrote:

cylinder is 0.75" when it should be 0.7" or so I'm told by the parts
department at Paul Matty's. Apparently seals for the 0.7" were
unavailable for some time and so 0.75" cylinders were used instead.
As the bore on

0.75" cylinder is off of or have the Lucas/Girling number for the
seals?

spring not sure how long that will work for but it seems OK. The
master cylinders were OK but from previous experience, when the slave
cylinder seals are replaced the extra strain on the master cylinder
seals causes

in the brake master cylinder at the same time. Of course the pem that
holds the brake master cylinder started turning and I had to hacksaw
off the bolt. Having seen where the cylinders are mounted on the s1 -
s4


_

it seized (a common cause of rebuilding the pedal box) or is it
literally welded ?

accelerator, left to right looking from the driving seat.

shaft and the box was rusted out.

cylinder was lower due to a shorter lever arm. I guess this was to
ease the pedal effort on the clutch, althought why it was changed on
later cars I don't know. The longer throw is 3", the shorter is 2
1/16".

wire" throttle pedal, and drilled access holes for fitting the
clevis pins. Also you can see the alternative under-frame I made up
which stiffens and strengthens the mounting of the pedal box in the
fibreglass.









reserved.






















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[Dave50/1]

Sean: Thanks for the picture; nice work. That is what I had in mind,
except I hadn't thought of the additional bracing. Good idea.

Dave
'72 +2S 130


----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Murray" <***@***.***>

Cc: "Dave Salls" <***@***.***>
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 7:36 PM
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Digest Number 875


Dave,

The pedal box mounting on a flat area of fibreglass is not the most rigid of
designs. In my opinion, reinforcing a flat area of fibreglass is not the
best way of dealing with this. I improved things by fabricating a lower
frame from 1" x 1" x 1/16" angle, cut and bent at my local sheet metal
shop. I enclose photo of the subframe. I cut the front flange as wide as
possible, as it is mounted in the angle of the vertical section where the
steering column comes through. I extended the side angles so they came
back to where the horizontal section turns up to the firewall under the
bonnet catch. The result is a pedal box that is very solid.

I used a 20mm hole cutter to cut access holes in the side panels of the
padel box for access to clevis pins, and use rubber grommets to close them
off. I've always found it less trouble to remove the pedal box when
changing master cylinders.

Best wishes,

Sean Murray
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Salls
To: ***@***.***
Sent: Monday, September 03, 2001 1:53 PM
Subject: Re: [LotusElan.net] Digest Number 875


Kevin: A PO used a heat wrench (blow torch) to punch two holes in my
pedal
box cover. They are directly over the cotter pins for both the brake and
clutch master cyl. The craftsmanship leaves much to be desired, so I will
clean up the holes, fix aluminum cover(s), and have the box powder coated.
I also plan on fabricating a reinforcement for the fiberglass where the
box
mounts.

Dave
'72 +2S 130












reserved.