Lotus Elan

Why restore an Elan

PostPost by: summerinmaine » Fri Feb 04, 2011 8:29 pm

Famous Frank wrote:Many thanks Gordon. Once I cut the front end off, it was like loosing a limb, ......you have to get the prostectic on as soon as possible. It feels great!



I've got to say that I admire your bravery and perseverance. I think that if I had found what you found, I would have chickened out and parted it.

I understand that many paintshops have "baking rooms" to dry the paint. Have you considered baking the body for 12+ hours at 200 degrees to evaporate any moisture, just before final finishing?
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PostPost by: MickG » Fri Feb 04, 2011 11:35 pm

By what I have been reading regarding the repair of glass fibre bodies any thing above 140F and the resin could start to flow and possible distort the body. Its is recommended that a force dry between 80F and 100F for about a week should suffice. That’s if you can find any one willing to tie up their oven for a week. Pretty costly too I would expect.
I stand to be corrected on this, just passing on what I have read regarding glass fibre body shells, repainting and the effects of low baking. Wouldn't like to see Franks car end up a melted blob :shock:

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PostPost by: Famous Frank » Sat Feb 05, 2011 3:38 am

Thanks guys, ....that's all I need, ............. I think I'll just keep it dry. It's been dry now for a few months and if I keep it dry for the rest of the year, it will be OK. Plus it will give me time to work on the GT6 Brakes, and the 5 speed T5, and the rest of the body work. As work in three of my jobs is spinning up, that leaves me time from 10:30 PM to 12:30 AM to work on the car. I better get at it!
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PostPost by: summerinmaine » Sat Feb 05, 2011 4:30 am

MickG wrote:By what I have been reading regarding the repair of glass fibre bodies any thing above 140F and the resin could start to flow and possible distort the body. Its is recommended that a force dry between 80F and 100F for about a week should suffice. That’s if you can find any one willing to tie up their oven for a week. Pretty costly too I would expect.
I stand to be corrected on this, just passing on what I have read regarding glass fibre body shells, repainting and the effects of low baking. Wouldn't like to see Franks car end up a melted blob :shock:

Regards MickG


That low!!??!! :shock: I would have thought that the radiated heat from the mechanicals would have raised the temp at least that high during normal operations.
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PostPost by: MickG » Sat Feb 05, 2011 10:30 am

As I pointed out I am only repeating what I have read.
Take a look at this article about fibreglass repaires, in particular the paragraph "The Paint Systems", most of which you already know, but interesting non the less.
http://www.westfieldbuild.com/resources/Fibreglass.pdf

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PostPost by: robertverhey » Mon Feb 07, 2011 11:28 am

Finally got a chance to jack up the o/s rear and get a picture of the scoop, but it won't add much to the store of knowledge.....certainly looks original and will need some repair! Dreadful idea, a stone catcher if ever I saw one! Maybe there are some pics of intact ones that can be loaded to assist in getting the profiles right. That said, I think Frank's probably got it pretty close (see his earlier posting)

Image

Might scan that SCW road test and include in a posting.....it was, after all what made me fall in love with Lotus all those years ago.

Robert
Last edited by robertverhey on Sat Mar 09, 2013 12:54 am, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: Famous Frank » Mon Feb 07, 2011 2:57 pm

Robert, thank you for the great picture. Now that I see yours (and they seem to be looking very similar with the same portions missing I had a new idea. All this time I was thinking this is a diff scoop, ..............what was I thinking? It's a Donut cooler!!!

Frank

You are correct, I'd would like to see a pic of the forward most section as it left the factory. to make sure I get the contours correct.
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PostPost by: Famous Frank » Tue Feb 08, 2011 3:20 am

OK, looking for a little technical help. The bonnet on this car also have many paint jobs and who know who has touched it in the past. And worst yet is I can't remember what is factory correct. Two questions if I may, ...1) The rear of the Bonnet has the two areas where the Bonnet latches. Is there suppose to be metal wrapped or attached in the latch area or do the metal Bonnet latches latch to the fiberglass.? And 2) At the front of the Bonnet, where the spring attaches, does the fiberglass have a notch cut into it or is it suppose to be enclosed all the way across the front.

This brings up another observation. Almost all of my previous S2 Elans, (I've had a few) had two springs holding the front of the hood in place. These two springs attached to the front frame bolts at the tops of the frame turrets. Now this S2 SE # 5738 has only one spring mounted in the center much like the later cars. And my old White S2 SE #5667 also had a single spring in the center but I assumed the previous owner made that modification. Is it possible all S2 SE's came with the single Bonnet spring in the center? Could any of you with S2 SE's respond with what type of Bonnet Spring you have? Two on the sides or a single in the center?

And if anyone could take a pciture and post it relating to the two questions above, it would be a great help. Thank you all ! Frank
Attachments
Bonnet rear latch area.jpg and
Is this suppose to be clad in metal somehow or do the latches only contact the fiberglass?
Bonnet front spring clip.jpg and
Is the Bonnet suppose to be notched? And if so, should it look better than this?
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PostPost by: gordont » Tue Feb 08, 2011 3:31 am

Frank

My S2 bonnet looks much the same as yours - pic attached.
Front has single notch and you can see the holes for metal plate or whatever - I do not use this at all so pretty much redundant
Rear has a notch at both sides - bonnet has been cut away to allow for the Deuz style fasteners
Attachments
front 002.JPG and
rear of bonnet - 1 x notch at each side
front 001.JPG and
Front centre notch
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PostPost by: gordont » Tue Feb 08, 2011 3:44 am

I just looked under mine for any trace - NIL.
Interestingly it appears that Roberts and Franks cars do not have a battery box protruding back which mine does, mine apears impossible to have the air scoop under the car as the battery box would get in the way. Know what I mean or do I have to crawl under and take a photo?
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PostPost by: Famous Frank » Tue Feb 08, 2011 4:21 am

Gordon, thanks for the pics! Yours doesn't look anything like mine, ...........yours is all shiny and beautiful, ...... now about those legs in the bottom pic???
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PostPost by: gordont » Tue Feb 08, 2011 4:33 am

hairy legs indeed - hmm, I only noticed after I had posted.... atleast they are brown from all teh hot weather we have had!

Confused as to the scoop location as my battery box would be in the way???
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PostPost by: gordont » Tue Feb 08, 2011 4:40 am

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PostPost by: Famous Frank » Tue Feb 08, 2011 5:09 am

I think I've fallen in love with orange !!! I'm going to blow that one up and look at the details more closely! Wow!

As for the Diff Scoop, mine only fits one side, .....the side opposite the battery box. Notice the attached pic, the battery box is on the right side and the diff scoop is on the left side.
Attachments
Underside looking rear to front.jpg and
Underside diff area.jpg and
Battery Box area on right side, and Diff Scoop on the left side.
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PostPost by: robertverhey » Tue Feb 08, 2011 7:24 am

Here's my setup, looks like a bit of a home remedy by the PO

Image

As you can see, women just can't wait to drape themselves across the bonnet. Caroline, in this case.

My battery box and the diff cooling scoop are both on the passenger side (Left side in a RHD car). The plot thickens.....
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