lotusfan wrote:
Also, there is what looks like an additional lock next to the rear light cluster ... Any idea what it could be? I highly suspect it's not standard at all!
The battery is on that side of the boot, that lock may be some sort of battery cut off switch? It is certainly not standard.
I will ask since it's not standard, but you might be right indeed ... Still, I wouldn't have made a hole to install that personally!
Grizzly wrote:Exactly!! The pipe that you see I've pointed too in red appears to be the headlight vacuum line that should have a T in it, the fact some one has bypassed the reservoir is what had alarm bells going off for me. If corrosion has perforated the lower parts of the chassis uprights (very common) the cross member won't hold vacuum and the headlights won't pop up.
Also bypassing the tank will make the headlights very lazy.
Thank you very much, I wasn't sure the pipe was that one. Indeed that is more than suspicious.
The seller tells it's still the original chassis ... When the front cross member is leaking, does that generally imply the chassis is a goner and should be replaced or is it just generally a little patch to do in a restricted area? Are there particular places to inspect on the chassis?
Grizzly wrote:As for the engine powered radiator fan.
I believe you should only find them on much earlier Elans (i'm sure some one more clued up will say which ones but i thought it was a S1 / S2 thing),
[...]
Again a bit odd the otter switch is there but some one has removed the electric fan.
I will have to ask about that front electric fan. I had a look at a few photos and I suspect you could be right indeed about the engine powered fan deletion on later cars.
Grizzly wrote:This is why i'd be looking very closely at the water pump too for any weeping (another very common issue)
Thanks!
Grizzly wrote:Looking at that picture it looks like the exhaust Y pipe is upside down, it has an angle to the outlet pipe so it point's back towards the floor, if it's upside down you have to correct it by turning the mid pipe much lower than it should be massively reducing the ground clearance. Not a major job but it's a bit of a theme going on.
Thanks for the tip! This kind of stuff is not that easy to spot when you own the car and it has been put backwards forever ...
MarkDa wrote:Oil pressures look fine.
Thanks!
Engine doesn't overheat in temperate climes (northern europe) but can be marginal elsewhere.
There should be a blanking plate under the radiator and a 50mm wide strip of foam attached to the bonnet to restrict airflow over the radiator.
Thanks!
Grizzly wrote:Just dirt on the floor, 2 seaters don't have outriggers.
patrics wrote:Hi,
Looking and the underneath shot showing the cill area I would expect the steel side supports to need attention - the fibre glass obviously needs repair.
Steve - Are you worried about the internal lattice support? It can rust and as you point out the glass fibre isn't watertight.
So, what exactly are these side supports? Some bits near the A pillars?
What do you mean about the glass fibre being not watertight?! Do you refer about this particular LHS floor needing a repair?
MarkDa wrote:Non "failsafe' cars use the cross member to store enough vacuum to empty both actuators quickly to raise the lights.
Looking at the drawing failsafe didn't use cross member?
MarkDa wrote:Is the diagram definitive about the piping or is failsafe system only shown where it differs from the original?
Actually the early non-failsafe version is pictured withouth a reference to the front cross member either in the workshop manual, so I gather they just didn't bother to draw it.
Either way the vacuum to brake is not shown. My Sprint has a tee piece on the manifold to serve the lights and brake servo separately, originally I think there was only one check valve (brass as shown) but ive put in a second one.
Maybe this car doesn't have a servo - quite a few people did dump them rather than repair.
If there's a brake servo then as Grizzly says a tee piece will be needed to service both functions.
If I remember correctly there is normally a one way valve to maintain brake vacuum should a leak occur elsewhere.
Apparently the OEM brake servo is supposed to be replaced every three years if I remember correctly ... Does it really have such a short life span?!
Gray wrote:Dynamo regulator appears to be in the wrong place, where the 'chassis' (unit) plate should be. Not a car I would be tempted by unless it was appropriately priced and the purchaser understood the amount of work required.
Thanks!
Well I checked a few photos on the Internet, and apparently LHD cars have a different engine compartment layout, and the voltage regulator would be where it belongs on a LHD car.
A confirmation from someone more knowledgeable than me would be interesting, though! (I haven't found a drawing of the engine compartment in the workshop manual, but maybe I haven't searched enough!)
LHD (mostly FED)
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