Thanks for the latest answers =)
MarkDa wrote:So one of those lid pics was very interesting - a twink on SUs!
Indeed, I had not noticed. I wonder why they installed SU instead of the Stromberg while I understand they are more or less of the same kind? But maybe I am wrong as I do know the SU carbs but don't know much about the Stromberg ... !
Grizzly wrote:Giniw wrote: Any idea of the pressure to look for on a big valve engine compression test?
Ideally around 200psi (warm with the throttles open and all plugs out) should be no less than 160psi or no more than 10psi difference across the four.
So, about the same compression as the standard engine? and a tighter tolerance! (for the 9.5:1 standard engine it's said it should be in excess of 160 PSI and within 20 PSI of each other in the workshop manual?)
Can the liners of the engine block be changed? I have not found the info in the workshop manual so ... I suspect they can not be removed?
When the engine is warm, is the engine/gear lever shaking a bit at tick over or not at all?
I don't think this has been answered yet so I am quoting myself as I almost forgot about that!
Giniw wrote:By the way, the cold engine photo shows the tick over is very low, is that typical? Is it an automatic or manual starter?
patrics wrote:Replacing the side frames is the biggest job you can do on an Elan
Well, thanks! Shy is it such a hard job? I understand it's accessible under a few panels, and then I would imagine it can removed from the car after cutting through the bonding laminates (maybe at the exception of the rear part over the rear wheel arch and would need to be soldered there? Of course near the GRP it doesn't look super easy!)
I would say I can do that as a winter project but I may be very well missing something very difficult indeed! So, please enlight me! Is it any realistic to not have to paint the car after that lattice replacement?
I replaced the whole thing.
Including the part over the rear wheel arch? Isn't it embedded deep into the GRP? That would be nice if it could be removed without damaging the body shell!
My guess will be the later the car the worse the corrosion will be.
Do you mean a newer car would be worse?
As for the chassis front cross member leaking, in the worst case scenario, if I am not wrong a replacement chassis can be ordered for about 2000? from SJS? +labour of course. Are these new chassis any good?)
So, if I sum up, so far, here are the observations more or less ordered by decreasing concern (it's the list I will be asking the seller, hence the "questions" ? do I forget something?):
- lattice/side steel reinforcement which may be rusted, which means lower side GRP repair and lattice repair/replacement
- engine shaking quite a bit at tickover, worn engine mounts maybe? What is the cylinder pressure in each cylinder?
- leaking front cross member reservoir, probably indicates a rusty chassis. Headlamps still operated with intake vacuum?
- rear suspension / driveshaft: is the car still on the Rotoflex doughnut driveshaft or converted to CV joints?
- brake servo: still present? OEM?
- radiator fan: electric one installed?
- additional lock on near the left rear light cluster: what is it?
- original steel wheels included? I see the rear tyres are 175/70 R13 instead of the usual 155/80 R13: are the Minilite rims front/rear width all 4.5J?