Lotus Elan

windscreen frame on s-1 elan

PostPost by: GLB » Wed Nov 06, 2019 8:04 pm

last piece to restore on 0045. Windscreen frame has what looks like a saw cut on lower screen frame with edges held together with pop riveted plate. Is this correct? Also pop riveted plates on sides of frame holding frame to body gasket in place. Is this correct. Tension rod looks like a common bicycle spoke. Is it special or can I source a new one at bike shop? Any ideas how to remove mirror bonded to screen? Lots of questions but parts book doesn't help and I have never been here before. Thanks. Gary
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Thu Nov 07, 2019 7:17 pm

GLB wrote: Windscreen frame has what looks like a saw cut on lower screen frame with edges held together with pop riveted plate. Is this correct?
Also pop riveted plates on sides of frame holding frame to body gasket in place. Is this correct.
Tension rod looks like a common bicycle spoke. Is it special or can I source a new one at bike shop?
Any ideas how to remove mirror bonded to screen? . Gary


I stand to be corrected but I think your frame has been broken (or sawed for some reason) and someone has tried to repair it. I don’t remember my S2 screen frame being joined the bottom but anything is possible :roll:
Yes, the lower screen seal is held at the ends with a pop riveted alloy piece and is correct.
I’ve added some pics of the alloy piece in place(not my car so I hope the owner does not mind)
The S1/2’s do have a very thin tension wire, the nipple locates in a ferrell in the top of the frame.
I don’t think they are available and you may have to make one from a bicycle spoke (I made one from a thin whiplash aerial that used to the fashion.
Sorry cant help with the mirror, should be fixed with screws to the frame.
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b.jpg and
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Thu Nov 07, 2019 9:21 pm

512BB wrote:Not so perfect an author yourself, are you Types 26/36


yawn........
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PostPost by: Emma-Knight » Fri Nov 08, 2019 12:29 am

This little riveted plate is correct.
I've already seen 3 of them, always in the same place.
By chance I've got an untrimmed original frame - by measurement there seems nothing cut out.
I think the cut is for easy fitting of the windscreen, then rivetted close and mounted to the bulkhead. Also, there are two grindings on the lower corners, done roughly to give more space to get the a-pillar more upright. As frames are moulded in black gelcoat, they show in clear Gfk. Looks odd but seems factory.

Anna
PS - Your frame is late S2, two side bobbin type. S1 would only have the forward bobbin
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PostPost by: PaulH » Fri Nov 08, 2019 6:51 am

GLB wrote:last piece to restore on 0045. Windscreen frame has what looks like a saw cut on lower screen frame with edges held together with pop riveted plate. Is this correct? Also pop riveted plates on sides of frame holding frame to body gasket in place. Is this correct. Tension rod looks like a common bicycle spoke. Is it special or can I source a new one at bike shop? Any ideas how to remove mirror bonded to screen? Lots of questions but parts book doesn't help and I have never been here before. Thanks. Gary


I think both pop rivet plates are original. Mine was also cut and pop riveted together on the lower frame. I assume they did this to make them fit correctly, I can't imagine any other reason that makes sense.
windscreen-frame-2.jpg and

You can see my windscreen frame in these two videos:
This one at 03:40 https://youtu.be/wC2y-CQjbnM
and this one at 03:30 https://youtu.be/--kkeSlUZt0

I bought a new tension rod from the 26 register http://www.type26register.com/index.html

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PostPost by: denicholls2 » Fri Nov 08, 2019 1:59 pm

While I don't doubt that sources have arisen to supply same, I recall a post from a number of years ago that confirmed the original was a bicycle spoke. We're talking about Colin Chapman here; fabricating a new part in the low volume of early Elans would have been way more expensive than walking down to the bike shop and buying a box of 100 for a couple of pounds.

Whether he would have gone to the added expense of using lighter weight double-butted spokes instead of straight gauge is, I suspect, a philosophical argument. Stainless is stronger than plated.
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PostPost by: nomad » Fri Nov 08, 2019 3:51 pm

A glass shop can probably help out on the mirror bonded to the screen. I would bet that acetone allowed to soak would work.

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PostPost by: Elan Peter » Fri Nov 08, 2019 8:14 pm

My one had the same cut in the bottom, it was give to me about a month ago. We glassed it back together.
Is the bracing thing supposed to be bonded into the top?
Best regards, P
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PostPost by: GLB » Fri Nov 08, 2019 11:07 pm

Thanks for all of the help. I would not have thought the cut and plate to be original. What do you think the order of assembly should be. Free plate, install screen, rerivet the plate and install assembly to body, or install frame, then screen. If the second then the help afforded by cut screen frame is negated. I was able to free up the tension rod. Does appear to be a spoke as a I used a bicycle spoke tool to remove the nipple. The upper end of the spoke sits in a cupped washer, like a screw finishing washer. I wish these old cars could tell us their histories and what has happened to them over the years. How did this Bourne body with so many very early features come to be left hand drive, why the series two screen frame. Both the body and frame have two dimple mold marks. The frame also has the obvious grinding marks to allow a more upright position that was mentioned in an earlier reply. Again thanks for the groups help. Gary
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PostPost by: PaulH » Sat Nov 09, 2019 2:10 pm

GLB wrote:Thanks for all of the help. I would not have thought the cut and plate to be original. What do you think the order of assembly should be. Free plate, install screen, rerivet the plate and install assembly to body, or install frame, then screen. If the second then the help afforded by cut screen frame is negated.


Here's what I would recommend. If the windscreen frame is original to the car then it should fit without needing to adjust the bottom part of the frame. If it has come form another car then may need adjusting. I would dry fit the frame to the body (no windscreen at this stage). If the bottom width needs adjusting then remove it and drill out the pop rivets holding the bottom part of the frame and fit to the body again and fix to the body at the sides to work out the bottom frame length required so you can mark up to re rivet to give the correct fit. Once that's done fit the tension wire to the frame (loose). I put silicone sealant onto the body when making the final fit of the windscreen frame to the body. Once it's all fixed in place then put the windscreen in. Then adjust the tension wire. I didn't put the wire under much tension at all as I didn't want to deform the frame, just enough to prevent the top of the frame lifting up.

I'm intrigued that you have an early car, which I would have expected to have only one screw/bobbin fixing at each side, but a frame with two fixing points at each side. Does the body have both fixings? Mine is a late S2 with two fixing bobbins at each side. One is a threaded bobbin and the other is not threaded. I think I describe this in the videos (links in the earlier post).

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PostPost by: GLB » Sat Nov 09, 2019 6:14 pm

Thanks for your reply, Paul. I have enjoyed your videos and they have been a help to me. The body is definitely a Bourne, grey resin, paper rope under nose and early as the differential aluminum casting lacks the A suffix and has o ring seals, aluminum brake junctions. and the number plate. The body has only one bobbin on each side and had only one bolt mounting the frame. The windscreen frame fit the car although it seemed pretty tight when I removed it. There are extra holes in the body for the frame bolts at the leading edge, suggesting that a previous frame with a different mounting hole pattern had been there. Maybe the holes where drilled by hand when the frame was positioned at the factory. The frame I have has only one set of holes suggesting that the extra holes where drilled when this frame and screen where fitted. You can see some pictures of the project under the tittle of My Early Elan. Gary
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PostPost by: ceejay » Sun Nov 10, 2019 1:04 am

Not a lot of difference between S1 - S2. This is what I did about thirty four years ago...never had the orig rear view mirror support rod, mirror and holding brackets...photos below show whet I did. The rod is 4mm Dia... a smaller dia rod will vibrate so much you mirror will be useless, even with 4mm Dia rod, there is still vibration so a small anti vibration block was machined and slips in between the rod and the window...stops all vibration, and you can actually see what's behind you.. All the bits were fabricated/machined/welded in my own workshop, as you have to do with classic cars. Hope this helps.
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