What to do when the engine is out?

[StephenT]

I am about to remove the engine and gearbox of my 66 series 2 Elan. The leaking water pump is the main problem but thought I would take this opportunity to freshen up the engine at the same time.

What I am wondering is while the engine is out of the car what are some other tasks to be considered? Like a general cleaning up of the engine bay and going through questionable wiring. What are the other issues I should be addressing?

Thanks,
Steve

[rgh0]

It really depends on the mileage of the engine and any other symptoms.

To replace the water pump the head and sump have to come off assuming you dont have a cartridge pump so you have access to most of the engine moving parts.

If the engine has done high mileage i would check the following apart from a general visual check of engine internals

1. Rod and crank main bearings and journal condition and wear
2. Bore wear and any signficant ridge at top of the bore
3. Valve and valve seat condition including stem clearance in guides
4. Clutch and flywheel condtion and I would routinely replace the thrust bearing and oilot bearing if its done signficant miles

Depending on what you find you may have further work

cheers
Rohan

[512BB]

Take the opportunity whilst access is easy, to have the prop shaft overhauled, with new uj's and balancing, you won't regret it. Also have the seals replaced in the gearbox, specially the rear one as a minimum. Possibly new bearings in there as well, depending on how the box was performing prior to removal. The brake and clutch master cylinders are nice and easy to get to with no carbs in the way, so if the rubbers have not been changed in a long while.

Just my thoughts. Post up some pictures as you go Steve, makes for good viewing.

Leslie

[smo17003]

The steering column U/J is an easy one to check and replace with the engine out.

Mike

[types26/36]

As well as the afore mentioned items, I would replace the front and rear crank oil seals, I would also take the opportunity to replace the core/welsh/freeze plugs (3 ... two on exhaust side and one at rear of engine)

[The Veg]

+1 For the crank main seals!

And just a good general cleaning & tidying of the engine & compartment are always a good thing to do.

[Craven]

66 series 2, 4 bolt crank! Replace rear crank oil seal, easy said not so easily done lots of advice on here about that. Old rope type, much better materials now available.

[richardcox_lotus]

Check the condition of the fibreglass on the pax footwell that is usually hidden by the exhaust it can crack and crumble there due to the heat.

[StephenT]

Thanks for all the input.

I have no knowledge on mileage. The car was sitting in a garage from 1976 until last year when I got it. I have gone through the brakes, replaced clutch and brake master cylinders and replaced the rubber doughnuts. I rebuilt the fuel pump and carburetors. I got the engine running pretty well. Adjusted the valves, then the water pump went out. I have actually driven the car less than 100 miles. My initial task after the engine is out will be to measure everything, then I will have a better understanding of what I’ve got. I do know the compression was about 175psi in all cylinders.

Steve