Lotus Elan

Removable cross member

PostPost by: gjz30075 » Wed Jul 06, 2011 5:28 pm

I know many of you have modified your frame to make the cross member that's under the engine removable. I'm thinking of doing said mod so I'd like to see pics of the various ways one can do this.
Thanks,

Greg Z
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PostPost by: memini55 » Thu Jul 07, 2011 3:20 am

Greg,

I will try to attach a few shots of the frame rebuild of an S2. The pictures will show a few steps that I have done. First added a plate to the top side with a couple welded nuts and then the bar was made from 1/2" bar stock. I think you will get the idea. Bar could have been made of thinner material I am sure. Does not fit the lightness theme very well but it does work well.

Mark
ElanFrameMods resized 008.jpg and
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ElanFrameMods resized 015.jpg and
ElanFrameMods resized 002.jpg and
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PostPost by: garyeanderson » Thu Jul 07, 2011 8:14 am

Here is a photo of the removable crossmember that Spyder makes now, nice design. They used to be made with elliptical tubing, looked quite special. SPY0629 had this feature, I see that Roy Jewell has the same vintage on his S2.

Spyder removable crossmember.JPG and
Late Spyder


Roy Jewell S2 Elan engine bay.JPG and
Roy Jewell put this photo of his Early Spyder chassis in the engine bays topic.
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PostPost by: bcmc33 » Thu Jul 07, 2011 9:35 am

gjz30075 wrote:I know many of you have modified your frame to make the cross member that's under the engine removable. I'm thinking of doing said mod so I'd like to see pics of the various ways one can do this.
Thanks,

Greg Z

Greg,

I have a Spyder stressed-skin frame with a removable crossmember as Piss-Ant shows, and have pointed a couple of friends in the direction of fitting one to a Lotus frames.
Spyder will sell you the kit, but you will need to have welding capability to fix the crossmember end locators to the frame. When welded in position - cut off the old crossmember.
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Thu Jul 07, 2011 10:47 am

I cut off the original cross member brazed a plate on each end and then drilled and bolted through the chassis flange with close clearance holes.

see attched photo. This has withstood 30 years of chassis load due to racing without distortion or cracking so it works ok

cheers
Rohan
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R0013548.JPG and
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Thu Jul 07, 2011 3:04 pm

Thanks guys. Keep them coming, if you have them.


Greg Z
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Thu Jul 07, 2011 6:09 pm

My S2, the bolt goes into a tapped plate on the top of the chassis lip.
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S2 CROSS STAY.JPG and
S2 STAY.JPG and
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PostPost by: cabc26b » Fri Jul 08, 2011 1:02 am

Greg,

This was a re-purposed item . I thought it was worth including as it is a bit different -

I am still in to process of making it permanent but you are welcome to inspect in person if its something you want to pursue for your car.

George
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Crossmember1.JPG and
crossmember2.JPG and
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PostPost by: Yum-yum » Fri Jul 08, 2011 1:19 am

Another way: Cut the original out leaving about an inch protruding inward on each side. Insert a new steel channel the same length as the original by one inch wide by one-half inch deep and drill one side through both old and new and bolt it down, drill and bolt the other side. The fit is pretty snug. The section of the new is smaller but the web thickness is thicker, I'd bet the stiffness of both channels are similar. Rich Kamp showed me this way back when, it has worked for over twenty years and a couple engine removals. I suppose it would be better to drill the matching holes first and then cut out the old, to maintain the proper spacing, but I'm not sure the frame splays much just sitting there.
Yes, I do need an oil cleanup one of these days.
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PostPost by: RotoFlexible » Sat Jul 09, 2011 12:19 am

I had the luxury of having the frame out and had a welder reinforce the known stress points. He also replaced the fixed cross member with a length of channel stock bolted through the frame into nuts welded into reinforcing plates.
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Welds_XBrace.JPG and
Top view of the bottom frame flange with the reinforcement plate and weld nuts.
Welds_EngMount.JPG and
This is a view of the engine mount reinforcement but you can see the drilled channel stock in the background, resting on top of the frame.
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PostPost by: bcmc33 » Sat Jul 09, 2011 1:35 pm

As I have had to drop the sump today, it was convenient to take pictures to show some detail of the Spyder design. Something easily made if you have access to welding and machining facilities.
Chassis Crossmember.JPG and

Chassis Crossmember Locator.JPG and

Chassis Crossmember Assembled.JPG and

I guess they were as pristine as Piss-Ant's, 20 years ago.
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PostPost by: 65ginetta » Wed Jul 13, 2011 1:11 am

I'm currently restoring a 66 S3 Coupe. This is my solution to the removable cross member. I cut the original "U" section welded bar out and replaced with a solid mild steel bar that nests into the original "U" section. I guess its slightly heavy compared to the original but I put my engine in for a trial body fit and it does the job.
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Front ARB.jpg and
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