Fuse block upgrade suggestions

PostPost by: holywood3645 » Tue Apr 17, 2018 5:09 am

I?m looking for some suggestion for a fuse block upgrade.
2 fuse just isn?t enough.
Anyone got any elegant suggestions, that resemble an OEM look.
James
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PostPost by: Foxie » Tue Apr 17, 2018 11:56 pm

holywood3645 wrote:I?m looking for some suggestion for a fuse block upgrade.
2 fuse just isn?t enough.
Anyone got any elegant suggestions, that resemble an OEM look.
James


Hi James,

I think the 3 x 4 fuse boxes as in my 1970 Elan +2S, located over the passenger footwell, are very fit for purpose.

But I'd say you might have to make up a new loom. :)
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PostPost by: Craven » Wed Apr 18, 2018 10:34 am

I?m not an advocate of multi ------ multi fuses, every break in a wire is a potential future failure point.
Unfused headlight circuit and the Head/Dip switch handling the full current was my main concern when considering how best to improve things when changing over to an alternator ( S3 )
This picture shows a minimise arrangement with the old control box removed and the 2 fuse box replaced with a period 4 fuse box wired to provide alterations to wiring for an alternator, the extra 2 fuses allows the lighting circuit to be isolated from rest of electrics.
Compromises are made but when the simplicity, all wires are standard, my major concerns are addressed.
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PostPost by: groucho » Wed Apr 18, 2018 2:47 pm

I'm in the process of completely rewiring my S2 so of course that includes fuse upgrades. I have essentially all the wiring ripped out (for a few years, if we're being honest, but hopefully not for much longer!) and have been furiously planning out my updated wiring. The plan is to use a pair of Blue Sea fuseboxes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000K2MBPA
I had heard them recommended at some point. The downside is that there's just a single power coming into them, so one will be for things that only run when the car is on, the other for things that run all the time (headlights, etc.)

I don't have my wiring plans in front of me, but I have one 6-fuse w/cover in hand and will be ordering a matching one, for a total of 12 fuses; I think I have plans for 11 of them.

I have been chatting with someone in Australia (ordering a CV joint conversion) and they recommended RCDs mounted in the cabin; I hadn't heard that term here in the USA but apparently it's what we'd call a ground fault interrupt breaker here, so you just reset it rather than replacing a fuse. I didn't go that way but I'm still trying to work out just where the fuses will go; I'm not concerned about looking original but I don't want them to be impossible to access, either.

The hardest part I've had is figure out just what size wiring to order; I'm using all original Lucas colors but certain things need heavier wire and I'm trying to do the math to figure out where I need it based on amperage; it's a pain but theoretically only needs to be done once!
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PostPost by: Andy8421 » Wed Apr 18, 2018 3:17 pm

RCDs or ELCBs (residual current device / earth leakage circuit breaker) operate when they detect a mismatch between the current flowing in the live and neutral conductor, presumably because it may be flowing through you to ground. These are totally unsuitable for use in protecting a circuit in your car.

My guess is you want an MCB - miniature circuit breaker. I am not sure if the mains versions available for home use would work properly for 12V DC (I suspect not), but I would guess there are versions easily available designed for low DC voltages.

A long time ago I used 'army surplus' DC circuit breakers that came out of a bomber in place of fuses in a mini I built.
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PostPost by: Bud English » Wed Apr 18, 2018 3:32 pm

There are self resetting and manual resetting mini circuit breakers available. Just make sure they are designed for 12VDC. There are even blade mounted CBs out there. Here's an example.https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuse-12v-24v-M ... Sw9CpasLhO
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PostPost by: Davidb » Wed Apr 18, 2018 3:33 pm

How about marine circuit breakers? Boaters have a big concern about preventing electrical fires too and their boats are 12 volt.
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PostPost by: groucho » Wed Apr 18, 2018 4:22 pm

This was a link given to one of the specific circuit breakers recommended:
https://jaydeeautocables.com.au/collect ... anel-mount

They said they've been used on several Elan restorations and were very happy with them. I didn't pursue further since I wasn't easily finding a USA supplier and so decided upon the more traditional fuseblock system.
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PostPost by: gus » Fri Apr 20, 2018 11:43 am

I replaced my fusebox with 4 fuses, just a basic commercial fuse holder. Pretty much stock but fused the windows separately

Has worked for years

Big difference is the holding tension of the fuses, much higher makes a more secure connection
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PostPost by: Chancer » Fri Apr 20, 2018 11:51 am

I used panel mount circuit breakers on my road/race Seven, I found some waterproof clear silicone covers for them, possibly from Rallye Design, too far back to recall.

they are great because in the event of a problem you can quickly reset them while driving, they will pop right out again if the fault condition is still there.
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PostPost by: Bigbaldybloke » Thu Apr 26, 2018 10:38 pm

I?ve added three four way fuse boxes similar to the one original so that I have separate fuses for each main and dipped beam lamp, the radiator fan, side lights, horn etc. Picture attached of it part way through installation. Still some tidying to do though, you can see the relays I?ve installed as well. The third fuse box is separate and mounted nearer the bulkhead. For the wiring I?ve used Tri-rated 16A wire for individual wires from the fuses to each lamp etc as this is slim, easy to run and amply rated as no individual lamp uses more than about 5A.
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