Sill Repairs

PostPost by: robcall » Sun May 03, 2009 9:05 am

Finally got around to some repairs.The temperature has been unusually cold of late and delayed resin cure.
I relaminated internally with an additional layer of mat and tidied up around where the lattice is inserted into the sill,ensuring that each metal rod is glassed above where water may pool.
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lattice repaired (Small).JPG and
seatbelt achor repair (Small).JPG and
Nigel Robertson
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PostPost by: robcall » Sun May 03, 2009 9:18 am

I used a 1"x 1/2" wood former to mould the sill base.
The cracked body join at the base of the sill was opened up along its entire length and cataloy removed.
This groove was then filled in with a resin mix of cut glass rovings.
Precut 300g matt was laid up on the wood former and compressed/ held in position with a jack until cured.

For the external surface I will remove excess material and screw a ply former onto a new layup.
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sill base repair (Small).JPG and
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PostPost by: Terry Posma » Mon Jun 29, 2009 12:36 pm

As an extension of this topic. I have had the sills on my Elan S2/3 repaired a fair few years ago and then put the car away (this rebuild is now in it's 17th year).

Now getting to the point of looking at the carpets and note that beading similar to that used on an S3 elan does not fit over the door aperture edges.

The question is, was the beading used on the Elan wider than that used on steel bodied cars due to the fibreglass being thicker or do I have to grind off the the glass and redo it to get the thickness down.

Thanks in anticipation.
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