Elan jacking points

PostPost by: kmoist » Sat May 02, 2009 11:10 pm

I've looked in the workshop manual but don't see any pictures of the proper jacking points. Also, the best place to put jack stands without doing any damage. Does anyone have some advice for a newbie or picture references of the proper locations? thanks
67 S3 Elan FHC
36/5823 chassis
LP6076 LBA engine
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PostPost by: 1964 S1 » Sun May 03, 2009 3:31 am

Greetings, if you search the archives here you'll find several threads on this subject. Basically, be very careful if you try to jack the car using the fiberglass as your jacking surface... Eric
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PostPost by: bcmc33 » Sun May 03, 2009 10:50 am

The workshop manual page 6 in sections B & C.

When I work on the front suspension I jack up from the centre of the vacuum reservoir and then put axle stands at the ends of the reservoir.

For the rear suspension I jack up from the end of the chassis spine and then put axle stands under the flanges of the spine in a position central to the lower wishbones.

I've always been nervous about putting supports under the bodywork.
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PostPost by: kmoist » Sun May 03, 2009 11:58 am

thanks, that's helpful!
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PostPost by: neilsjuke » Sun May 03, 2009 4:44 pm

http://www.flickr.com/photos/16638375@N ... 202952079/

Made this Alloy U channel with fixing for trolly jack
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PostPost by: redskatejbf » Sun May 03, 2009 10:26 pm

If you are going to jack the front of the car up using the vacuum tank as your lift point with a hydraulic jack I would recommend fitting a piece of timber between the jack pad and the vac. tank about 16" long to spread the load across the tank. Point loading between the pad and the tank could result in a dent at best and a split / crack at worst.

I manufactured a beam that fits on the jack pad ( of a very low profile racing jack ) and supports the front end between ( almost ) the trunnions. At the rear on the tubes running front to rear between the discs and the a/alloy bearing housing. This will lift the car up with very little deflection of the front or rear suspension / wheels. If I was a lot more `techy` I would post a picture.
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PostPost by: bcmc33 » Mon May 04, 2009 4:19 pm

The thought never crossed my mind that jacking in the centre of the vacuum reservoir could cause any sort of damage when lifting such a light weight.

I did a quich check and found no measureable change in tube diameter in the central area. During the check I came to the conclusion that the reservoir tube is 92mm O/D x 3mm thick wall. Sufficient to lift a double decker bus without any deformation.
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PostPost by: redskatejbf » Mon May 04, 2009 4:33 pm

If your vacuum tank is a tube, I guess you have a Spyder chassis the original Lotus chassis is 14 gauge box section, it will not take point loading like the Spyder.

Regards John.
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PostPost by: bcmc33 » Mon May 04, 2009 5:04 pm

Ahh, perhaps I should have mentioned that my car has a Spyder chassis, albeit the old Lotus style.
I have to admit that until I bought a new lightweight jack with a large rubber cushioned lifting pad I used pieces of wood to spread the load when using an old jack. And still do when lifting the rear end by the lower wishbones.
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PostPost by: steveww » Tue May 05, 2009 10:35 am

My S4 has the Spyder subframe. I use a low racing jack with rubber pad:

Front on the centre of the cross member, then axle stands at each end of the cross member.

Rear I have made a wooden block to clear the exhaust to jack under the diff, then axle stands with large blocks of wood at the front corner of the rear wheel arches.

I have had the car up on a 2 pillar lift by putting a large pad at the corner of all the wheel arches.
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PostPost by: richardcox_lotus » Tue May 05, 2009 12:47 pm

I've made one of those u-shaped bases for jacking the rear - however I don't jack the frame under the diff - rather the frame just in front of the lower wishbone attachments (Lotus Chassis; Not Spyder).
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