Sill member drawing
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Hi everyone
Just got myself a new project, a 1968 Elan +2 to fully restore, I pick it up Thursday so will post some pics.
It's in a bad way but I have a few restorations under my belt including a Marcos, Lotus Esprit, TVR Cerbera and a few more boring ones! so I am looking forward to the challange, + it was cheap!
Anyway I digress, it will obviously require new sill members, does anyone have pictures / drawings with dimensions of the sills? I'm sure I have seen some on a car that look to be made up of metal tube rather than a formed section, is this correct?
I am asking as I have a good friend who is a stainless Steal fabricator and would like to make them up myself in stainless.
I'm sure I will have lot's more Q's along the way!
Regards
Mal
Just got myself a new project, a 1968 Elan +2 to fully restore, I pick it up Thursday so will post some pics.
It's in a bad way but I have a few restorations under my belt including a Marcos, Lotus Esprit, TVR Cerbera and a few more boring ones! so I am looking forward to the challange, + it was cheap!
Anyway I digress, it will obviously require new sill members, does anyone have pictures / drawings with dimensions of the sills? I'm sure I have seen some on a car that look to be made up of metal tube rather than a formed section, is this correct?
I am asking as I have a good friend who is a stainless Steal fabricator and would like to make them up myself in stainless.
I'm sure I will have lot's more Q's along the way!
Regards
Mal
- malc_grn
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Mal,
great to see another being retored instead of broken. The sill members are quite cheap and readily available in both standard and Spyder forms, I think I've also heard of a someone producing a stainless version.
I wouldn't bother making your own, by the time you pick the right thickness of steel etc, it will probably cost a lot more to make you own and galavanised sills last well. You'll have lots to do elsewhere...........
Mike
great to see another being retored instead of broken. The sill members are quite cheap and readily available in both standard and Spyder forms, I think I've also heard of a someone producing a stainless version.
I wouldn't bother making your own, by the time you pick the right thickness of steel etc, it will probably cost a lot more to make you own and galavanised sills last well. You'll have lots to do elsewhere...........
Mike
- mikealdren
- Coveted Fifth Gear
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Mike
I don't think you understood...."I am asking as I have a good friend who is a stainless Steal fabricator and would like to make them up myself in stainless."....probably means free,which sounds good to me...
John
P.S. there are lots of places where stainless would benefit the car...
I don't think you understood...."I am asking as I have a good friend who is a stainless Steal fabricator and would like to make them up myself in stainless."....probably means free,which sounds good to me...
John
P.S. there are lots of places where stainless would benefit the car...
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john.p.clegg - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Hi
Yes the tube members are from Spyder about ?200 + Vat a pair, sorry I do not have the dims.
See link below you can see the member poking out at the bottom of the page.
http://www.haverstad.net/cars/elan/
Jason
Yes the tube members are from Spyder about ?200 + Vat a pair, sorry I do not have the dims.
See link below you can see the member poking out at the bottom of the page.
http://www.haverstad.net/cars/elan/
Jason
50/0951 1968 Wedgewood blue +2, 1990 Mini Cooper RSP
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Jason1 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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I haven't fitted the end plates on my +2 yet, so can measure dimensions if of interest - the diameter of the tube and positions of the flat plates. Mine are galvanised and came with the car, I had to drill the holes in the bottom of the sill myself, so I bet every car is slightly different. I'd be interested in other ss parts that you have made up in the future.
All the best.
Sean.
All the best.
Sean.
- alaric
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I bought galvanized ones from Paul Matty and I'm pretty sure when I laid them out they had a slight bow to them--they fit perfectly and all the original holes and plates lined up great--you might do well to "borrow" a set to match rather than try from measurements. Gordon Sauer
- Gordon Sauer
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Mal,
My +2 is all in pieces now and i have just removed the long galvanised sills, so I can repair the GRP sills. I can measure if you still need info , and i would suggest that you renew all the seat belt pickup points. All mine were rotten, so I now will be making new ones. It's your life !
My +2 is all in pieces now and i have just removed the long galvanised sills, so I can repair the GRP sills. I can measure if you still need info , and i would suggest that you renew all the seat belt pickup points. All mine were rotten, so I now will be making new ones. It's your life !
- david m cross
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- Joined: 27 Sep 2009
Thanks David
I've stripped out what was left of the old ones and along with pics, and measuring the body, my mate is making up a stainless steel sill in the same profile as originals, once done I will put into sill and then mark all the holes for the plates so they are accurate, remove sill again then have s/s nuts welded on.
Yes all the plates and seat belt mounts will be remade in s/s as well.
I'll post a pic of the sill once completed, and if anyone likes what they see I'm sure more could be made.
Regards
Mal
I've stripped out what was left of the old ones and along with pics, and measuring the body, my mate is making up a stainless steel sill in the same profile as originals, once done I will put into sill and then mark all the holes for the plates so they are accurate, remove sill again then have s/s nuts welded on.
Yes all the plates and seat belt mounts will be remade in s/s as well.
I'll post a pic of the sill once completed, and if anyone likes what they see I'm sure more could be made.
Regards
Mal
- malc_grn
- New-tral
- Posts: 10
- Joined: 31 Aug 2009
Malc,
Take care with the hole drilling. When I removed my sills the holes were not at the factory positions, so the GRP floor had been ground away cutting right thru and leaving holes to fill in. I'm thinking of making an outter capping strip with the bolts welded on and heads ground off, painted black, that way bolt heads ( studs really )are invisible andjust nuts on the inside to hide.
David
Take care with the hole drilling. When I removed my sills the holes were not at the factory positions, so the GRP floor had been ground away cutting right thru and leaving holes to fill in. I'm thinking of making an outter capping strip with the bolts welded on and heads ground off, painted black, that way bolt heads ( studs really )are invisible andjust nuts on the inside to hide.
David
- david m cross
- New-tral
- Posts: 5
- Joined: 27 Sep 2009
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