Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

Its nearly 50 years so I cannot be certain, but I dont think those flaps were rubber originally, mine were made from a double thickness of the hood material itself, which was grey on the inside.

The stiffened strip on the front edge that fits in the slot above the windscreen had been manufactured with a strip of thick (plastic/mill-board?) sewn inside the same hood material. My replacement hood has a rubber 'fin' that sits in the slot but it works fine.

Ian

Here are pics from the hood that was on my '72 Sprint, purchased by me in '78. I'm guessing it's
not a replacement because it had(s) plenty of patina in '78 and needed replacing at that time.
Rubber flaps around the window opening, four metal strips that get placed in hood for fixing it to the top of the windscreen, tan inside.

This is interesting because I'm wondering if there were different suppliers based on where the car was
going. Mine's a Federal Sprint.

Thanks Ian and Greg! Some more question in order to rebuild the originality history:
1.are the screen swan or welded? Most of the new reproduction are welded and in some case with wrong not rounded corner of the screen.
2.about the two laces, inside near the screens, to fix the hood to the trail; how to close them by what?
So:
1.black external and grey inside; YES
2.screen swan or welded?? TO BE CONFIRMD
3.Lateral rubber flaps. ALMOST YES, IT SEEMS ORIGINAL; BETTER TO INVESTIGATE MORE
4.Fixed on the rear to the body by mail tenax; YES
5.screen with round corner; YES
6.fixing the hood to the trail bar; how? UNDER INVESTIGATION

Umberto, my windows / screens are sewn in, not welded. I'm still unclear on your question #6.

Umberto is considering making the hood fully removable to avoid scrunching it under the hood cover when down.

Umberto,

A word of advice... don't try fitting the hood on a cold day.. You need a nice hot day when the material becomes flexible. I bought a new hood from Sue Miller last year and am still waiting for a hot day to fit it! In Italy you probably have more chance of finding a hot day than me!

Sue's hoods come with a rubber strip sewn alone the front edge rather than use fabric tubes with metal strips in them. I hope this is better? I inspected a lot of hoods at the Silverstone Classic last year and the one from Sue seemed to be the best fit (I contacted the owner of the Elan to see where they bought it from).

Carl

gjz30075 wrote:This is interesting because I'm wondering if there were different suppliers based on where the car was
going. Mine's a Federal Sprint.

Greg, it would have to have a different part number if it were different, however none are shown in the part list.

MarkDa wrote:Umberto is considering making the hood fully removable to avoid scrunching it under the hood cover when down.

Its up to Umberto as to how he fixes the hood, I think all he has enquired about relate to hood details of how the original hood were fitted.

The original hood folded neatly under the cover, not scrunched.

Scrunching is a new feature caused by some aftermarket hoods not being made to the same specification as the factory ones (material type and thickness, positioning of window outlines etc).

I have a replacement hood which I manage to get under the cover but because the strips between the windows are not in the exactly the right positions its a bit of a struggle.

In spite of what I said earlier I now am sure the flaps round the door window frame were originally rubber, and that the windows were welded in place.

Ian

Who do we reckon provides hoods closest to original sizes and materials?

MarkDa wrote:Who do we reckon provides goods closet to original sizes and materials?

I'd sure like to know, too. The original / oem was really the best. That's why I kept mine, hoping
to find someone who can reproduce exactly.

I have recently purchased a Everflex hood from Susan Miller. It is a nice piece of kit and very sturdy but as a result of the sturdiness is hard to stretch even in the warm weather we have here in Perth, Australia.

The car also has a Safety Devices roll bar which fitted very nicely.

I do have a few problems having these two items:

1. The roll bar acts as a hood bow and therefor it is impossible to attach the hood to the front rail if the hood is attached permanently under the 7 rear male tenax fasteners. Have others experienced the same issue?

2. I can attach the hood by having the rear loose, attach the hood rail first and then put up the front hood bow, attach the rear tenax fasteners and then use the hood tensioning bow. This is all very stiff. Is this usual or do I just have to wait for the hood to stretch if in fact it does?

Also:

3. The rods that attach the hood frame to the front windscreen surround tend to slip out of the nylon holder after being slipped in, is this usual? Any suggestions?

Cheers.

Hi Terry

I have the same set of components as you, a Susan Miller everflex hood and a Safety Devices roll bar. My hood is 'loose' at the rear edge.

The main bow of the hood frame is a little higher than the roll bar but from what you say I get the impression that they are the same height on your car. I have added some packing under the frame feet to stretch the hood a little, maybe you could try that to increase the hood clearance from the roll bar if it is a problem.

The hood was fitted during one of our summers which do not compare with Perth summers so I am surprised that you say the hood is stiff.

Finally you talk about rods which slip under the windscreen frame, I don't understand, my hood has 2 flat strips which fit under the windscreen frame.

Does that help any? If you need more info I am happy to help.

The rods are the overdoor stays.
I'd suggest nipping the fingers together or otherwise manipulate to make the stay fixed.
Maybe needs new buttons?

Thanks MarkDa - I had misunderstood the comment about the rods.

The hood frame on my car was a bit deformed when I first got it and it took a lot of tweaking to get it anywhere near correct. The rods over the doors are still not right, they fit fairly well when the hood is up but I have not been able to get them to always fold down nicely when the hood frame is stowed.

So, to answer Terry's question I think not having the hood permanently fixed at the rear edge will make it easier to erect with the roll bar in place.

Thanks for the replies.

both hood bows clear the rollover bar by a small amount so I think I have that reasonably sorted out

The buttons are new but I think I probably have to create a looser fit between the stay and the button.

I probably need to be patient with he hood and let it gradually stretch. I would have liked to have the back fixed as if I fit the seven rear tenax I can't go back.

Anyway onto the windscreen surround locking strip.