Painting the chassis

[englishmaninwales]

POR_15 doesn't need under or top coating. It needs a rough and clean finish to adhere well, so its not very good on fresh metal.

It is also UV sensitive, that why people say it needs top coating. But even in Texas with very strong sunlight its not an issue for a chassis that doesn't get direct sunlight.

POR15 is best applied to bare metal using their system: Initial degreasing with ‘Marine Clean’ followed by POR phosphate etch coat which is washed off and then 2 coats POR15 paint, the second coat before the first has cured. All applied by brush, giving a hard durable coat with good adherence. As said UV not an issue for a chassis.

I applied this to my bare Caterham space frame (mix of mild steel and brazed joints) - 15 years ago and still looks good with good adherence and no corrosion.
Malcolm

[BR04DAN]

I thought you had a new Lotus galvanised Chassis with your car.
Imho you would be better fitting that. No need to paint galvanised.
Alan
p.s. if you keep original Chassis get all dimensions checked. Plus around Engine brackets for no cracks and around Diff attachement points no cracks. These Chassis suffer from cracks over the years and fatige

Hi Alan, how are you, I hope alls well.

(Hopefully this is the correct Alan!)

Kind regards

Brendan

[alan.barker]

Hi Brendan,
Just sent you pm
Cheers
Alan

[Spyder fan]

Is that the correct Brendan…. Lol



Alan

[JonB]

I'm Jon but I'll change it to Brendan if it helps..

Meanwhile, I think I have found the right stuff. It's called Bonda BON12248 Rust Primer and has a high zinc content (for what it's worth). It's a cellulose brushable paint that looks like the original factory red oxide when it dries. I plan to put a coat of this on, then go over it with satin black Tough Paint. I may finish with a bitumastic paint in highly exposed areas.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005AT2LTO? ... ct_details

The stuff's not cheap, but I can see it going a long, long way.

I should say that there's not much rust on my chassis (subframe, cough cough) and I can get most of it off with a sanding disk on my angle grinder (who you have met before, I think). So, a little bit of welding round the front turrets and we're good to go. I will put the chassis aside then and begin restoration of the other parts of the car.

[alan.barker]

If you change your name to Brendan you will need to change your car to a Ferrari like him.
Anyway how did you clean the inside of the Turrets,
A bit difficult with a Disc Sander. Unless the holes were very big lol.
Sandblaster maybe
Alan

[Spyder fan]

I'm Jon but I'll change it to Brendan if it helps..

No it doesn’t help…… please pm me regarding your identity ( the identity of your car).

[alan.barker]

Hi Jon,
for the Vacuum chamber part of the original chassis how do you know it's not rusted inside. This can rust from moisture inside.
The galvanised chassis is new and treated. For me the galvanised chassis is a no brainer.
Alan

[JonB]

I don’t know, Alan. No one can know that. But, in case of problems, the LR is standing by.

Turrets, hmmm. Well I can get in there with a scraper. I just want to remove the underseal so I can give them a good coat of zinc primer.

I reported on my OMG thread that the turrets are now repaired, and to a very high standard. So I will proceed with the original frame for now.

[alan.barker]

Good luck Jon you have a big job on your hands.
Maybe you could find a way to get an inhibitor liquid inside the Vacuum chamber of the Chassis to prevent any chance of problems. To cover your back so to speak.
Alan

[JonB]

Or go electromechanical!

[alan.barker]

Don't forget it's first job is main chassis member. In true chapman style it had to do a second job and why not headlamp pods.
Just for the sake of it's first main job it needs rust inhibitor inside.
I like the headlamp vacuum system as an early warning of imminent chassis failure lol
Alan

[ericbushby]

Hi Alan
Following your mention of Chatman principles, don`t forget that pumping air out of the chassis also reduces it`s weight.
Eric in Burnley
1967 S3SE DHC

[alan.barker]

Well Eric he certainly had the "chat" lol.
Chubby was a good salesman
Alan

[mikealdren]

I'm Jon but I'll change it to Brendan if it helps..

Meanwhile, I think I have found the right stuff. It's called Bonda BON12248 Rust Primer and has a high zinc content (for what it's worth). It's a cellulose brushable paint that looks like the original factory red oxide when it dries. I plan to put a coat of this on, then go over it with satin black Tough Paint. I may finish with a bitumastic paint in highly exposed areas.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B005AT2LTO? ... ct_details

The stuff's not cheap, but I can see it going a long, long way.

I should say that there's not much rust on my chassis (subframe, cough cough) and I can get most of it off with a sanding disk on my angle grinder (who you have met before, I think). So, a little bit of welding round the front turrets and we're good to go. I will put the chassis aside then and begin restoration of the other parts of the car.

#
Hi Jon
I used to use 'Bondaprimer' many, many years ago and I used it over Kurust. It seemed good but I never kept the cars long enough to be sure. I'm using POR15 now.
I find that stiff wire brushes work very well with my angle grinder (the ones with twisted wire, not the softer crimped ones) for removing rust, they seem to get into nooks and crannies better than disks.