Bobbin Positions

PostPost by: Bill Smart » Mon Jul 05, 2004 9:20 pm

Am in the middle of replacing the front end on my +2 with a section from an origional body shell in good condition. :P
My question is has anybody had to open up the bobbin holes (the original bobbin thats giving me the trouble (front nearside turret) had been opened up to almost half an inch diameter on the junk section) or even worse had to remove them and re position. I have checked the chassis and it measures correctly. :rolleyes:
I can get the bolts in but under stress ( both body shell and me). :(
I guess the least amount of stress in the shell will result in reduced crazing and stress marking. ;)
Thanks for any advice in advance ;)
Bill Smart
New-tral
 
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PostPost by: bvt » Mon Jul 05, 2004 10:00 pm

when you buy a chassis.. it is not drilled for the bolts/bobins ...
you drop the shell on and mark the position of the holes in the chassis...
then drill and tap.... the mounting bolt holes...
All this is because the positions of the bobins is never 100% in the same position in the shell.. so if you try a shell or new panels with bobins onto a predrilled chassis.. it is quite probable that the bobins will not line up.. best solution is to cut out a largeish section with the bobin and reglass it using the bolt to centralise the bobin .. I wouldn't open up bobins...

What i have done in the past... is taken a drilled chassis ground of the 1/4" plates that are drilled and tapped and re welded new ones on. (make up a jig first to check for distortion!! but a good welder would not create too much heat.)
bvt
Second Gear
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