Lotus Elan

Driveshafts

PostPost by: Jason1 » Sun Aug 13, 2006 3:37 pm

Guys

Just got my +2 back from it's MOT and jacked it up to de-adjust the handbrake pads and noticed the donut is NFG :cry:

Now I really do not want to fit new donuts as they are not cheap and I really do not trust them. I would rather fit CV shafts from Sue Miller, but looking at my shafts you can see they are not original equipment.

I think they are early TTR shafts as they have the sliding spline part????

My questions are;

1. Are these early TTR shafts?

2. Can I get a CV joint to fit on the end of this shaft? Or do I need to bin the whole shaft and buy new shafts???

3. The bolt has gone any ideas on the size? I can just remove one of the others and match it.

Any help you can give will be much appreciated :D :D

Jason
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shaft3.JPG and
shaft1.JPG and
donut.JPG and
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PostPost by: SADLOTUS » Sun Aug 13, 2006 6:07 pm

A couple of questions and an observation:
You had just driven back from an MOT when you noticed the condition of the donut? Does your man do postal MOT's as well? I need one for my '85 Toyota.
I was going to suggest the driveshafts were early Spyder but I think they've always been CVs and donuts, not UJs and donuts. TTR driveshafts are UJs at both ends with a sliding spline, and I dont think you'll be able to just fit the inner/diff half of the sliding spline shaft unless they both have the same same spline pattern and match up perfectly, anyhow I cant see TT selling you just the inners.
Looks like Spyder A frames and their rear suspension kit from the picture, so it just maybe a Spyder setup. the donut looks pretty old so a new one should last at least as long, maybe longer if you can fix the diff leak. Cheapest solution would be to fit another donut and a (set of) bolt(s). The bolt's available from just about any dealer - order one at the same time as the donut.
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PostPost by: chrishewett » Sun Aug 13, 2006 6:57 pm

Don't expect to much from modern donuts. The last pair I bought lasted about 3000 miles before serious cracks appeared. I will soon be looking to changing to donutless shafts.
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PostPost by: chrishewett » Sun Aug 13, 2006 7:01 pm

By the way, you will not be able to use standard bolts as they are the wrong length. I had to source the exact size with the correct length shank otherwise you will have no end of problems with them breaking. I can give you some help on that if you want. PM me.
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PostPost by: chrishewett » Sun Aug 13, 2006 7:03 pm

Also there should be a rubber gaiter over the splines.
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PostPost by: nebogipfel » Sun Aug 13, 2006 7:47 pm

Susan Miller keeps bolt kits in stock.

Short term, it looks like new donuts would be the cheapest solution.

The best would be a set of Susan's shafts - then you wouldn't need the bolts.

The donut does look bad but unless the MOT rules have changed (and they do about every 2 days!!) then rear drive shaft coupling are not testable. On the front they always have been.
John

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PostPost by: Jason1 » Sun Aug 13, 2006 7:55 pm

Cheers

looks like I will have to just put on new donuts :cry:


You had just driven back from an MOT when you noticed the condition of the donut? Does your man do postal MOT's as well? I need one for my '85 Toyota.


Sorry, I wish, the MOT was a hassle. I checked the donuts and later had to adjusted the handbrake to pass the second MOT (no free retests). Then when I got home I de-adjusted the handbrake as I had to make it too tight to pass the test and was binding. That's when I noticed the donut.


Looks like Spyder A frames and their rear suspension kit from the picture, so it just maybe a Spyder setup. the donut looks pretty old so a new one should last at least as long, maybe longer if you can fix the diff leak.



Well spotted the rear suspension is Sypder so you may be correct in thinking the shafts are early Spyder??

The diff is leaking slightly but does not seem to be dripping onto the donut as it is pretty dry. I was planning to fix the leak after the MOT so will do it when I fit the new donuts.

Thanks for the help

Jason
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PostPost by: chrishewett » Sun Aug 13, 2006 9:30 pm

Jason,
Susan miller bolts will not do. You cannot use standard bolts on this setup, if you do you will have breakages with possibly costly results. I have learnt this through experience, I have the same driveshafts as you.
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PostPost by: Sarah Ryan » Mon Aug 14, 2006 9:25 am

I recommend you check out the Elan Factory in Melbourne AUS. Steve Taylor (ex Pom) manufacturers a complete CV set that are of a very high standard & with the conversion of pounds to Aussie dollars there are a very inexpensive item. I put them on my Sprint & would never go back!
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PostPost by: theelanman » Mon Aug 14, 2006 9:57 am

IIRC the MOT test does not include final drive and as such the inspector doesnt need to look at or tell you about the condition of your 'nuts......
just as the car doesnt need an emissions test....
cheers
G
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Mon Aug 14, 2006 11:19 am

Sarah

Steve Taylor sells his drive shafts to a number of overseas dealers. Looking at the Sue Miller ones they look like the same as the ones he sells in Australia so I suspect that is were Sue Miller has source them from.

To my knowledge Steve was the first and possibly still the only one who developed the modification using captive bolts and nylock nuts in the adapters versus a bolt through the drive flange into the adapter to minimise the risk of the bolts loosening in use.

This was based on the work I did with Steve's fabrication supplier on the prototype of this conversion which demonstrated the problem of bolt loosening in extreme racing use many years ago which Steve then picked up and found a solution for when he develop his commercial version in his usual throrough fashion.

regards
Rohan

PS As there are not that many Lotus fans with a Ryan name in Australia are you Gary's daughter ?
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PostPost by: chrishewett » Mon Aug 14, 2006 3:44 pm

I just looked at the elan factory site. Very impressive. I see that the driveshafts are $1,350.00 plus GST. Anyone any idea what that equates to in sterling? Shipping to australia is quite expensive unless you use surface and that can take 12 weeks.
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PostPost by: Matt » Mon Aug 14, 2006 3:47 pm

Hi Jason

Sorry to heard about your MOT problems :(

Your driveshafts are 1985 era spyder driveshafts, and to be honest they were quite good, I would just clean um and grease um up then fit new donuts.


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PostPost by: Robbie693 » Mon Aug 14, 2006 4:03 pm

Hi Jason,

I concurr with Matt - they are early Spyder units. I had them fitted to my last car (also had to have the UJ's rebuilt). Still suffered the surge/wind up though. The donuts were replaced and the normal bolts from the usual suspects were used.
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PostPost by: Jason1 » Mon Aug 14, 2006 5:06 pm

Matt

You like a bit of Spyder, do you want to buy a used pair of early used shafts to go with that Spyder chassis? :lol:

I was inspired by your headlights at Silverstone and yesterday bought a used MX5 headlight motor from ebay :D Now I have to make up a bracket and a rod to connect the two pods.

Jason
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